brake disc bolts snapped advise

[Rusty McNeil]

They are also perfect for Phillips screws too like found on older UJM motor covers!

 

[davesax36]

Sooo... of course since I commented on this thread, I still managed to round out three heads last night. I sliced a slot in one, heated it, shot it with brake cleaner, pb-blaster, pretty much every solvent I have here... Nothing. I even mangled a nickel and a quarter trying to get this thing to move. There must be half a tube of loctite on there. I don't think any driver bit that I have is going to be wide enough to span the gap of this rounded off center section. Any ideas before I got get a set of easy-outs and my drill (and hope I don't screw up the threads by drilling at an angle)...?

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Good news at least is the bolts are soft and easy to drill.

Unfortunately the aluminum around them is even softer.

Only advice I have is be precise and take your time.

 

[davesax36]

I'm thinking a trip to a machine shop might be in my future. I don't really feel like screwing things up and having to get a whole new wheel or anything like that.

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

I had the same problem with one bolt head snapping off. I tried to drill it out but the shank was so stuck that I snapped the easy out in the hole. It turned into a pain in the *** after that. Eventually, I was able to drill out the center of the bolt/easy out and rethread to the same size and pitch bolt. The stupid stock bolt never came out. Good luck, IMO take it to a machine shop, much easier and worth the money.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Buying a used wheel may be cheaper?

 

[98Redlne]

Been there done that with the stripped rotor bolts and snapped off heads.

Just a couple of pieces of advice.

1) Use a drill press and make damn certain you center drill the bolt. Way too easy with a hand drill to get off center and F up your rim.

2) After drilling the bolt, stick something like a drill rod down there and head the snot out of it with a torch. The drill rod will carry the heat down to the threads and provide very direct heating.

3) Use a quality easy out. Harbor Freight stuff is junk. I snapped one off flush in my rim when I tried to use it. Had to take the wheel to a machine shop to get the easy out and bolt out.

4) The easiest, fastest and least frustrating is to take the wheel somewhere and have someone get the bolts out for you. I spend hours dicking around trying to get the sheared off bolts out. Took my local machine shop like an hour.

 

[jfeagins]

Is it possible to grind the head total flush so that the disc can be removed? Then maybe get some vicegrips on the stub showing from there.?

 

[davesax36]

Buying a used wheel may be cheaper?

I still need the rotors, though. I know I could probably take the head off, but I threw the wheel in the car this morning zoo we'll see if I can find a shop during lunch.

 

[V-Four]

My situation was a lil different.. I was able to free the semi rusty bolts..but after a few turns..they started gettin tighter. . So I soaked em..and tightened em back up. (I was really juzt gonna replace the ugly bolts..but when the started binding..I didnt want to chance it.

I may try again this year..after readin this thread.


Thanks.

 

[sdt354]

Vmax newfie use heat I didnt heat will help alot !

I always use a butane pencil torch right on the hex of the bolt first. It breaks the red lock-tight seal. If the hex strips, sometimes a torx bit on a hand impact will grab. I'm hesitant to weld around the rotor, but whatever works. Drilling an allen hex isn't bad. a large drill bit to get a center is best, then smaller to get the easy out in. Only a hand impact should be used to start with and fewer will strip.
Steve

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I still need the rotors, though. I know I could probably take the head off, but I threw the wheel in the car this morning zoo we'll see if I can find a shop during lunch.

Use a wide drill to drill the head out like on a rivet. then remove the rotor. the protruding bolt will be small due the counterbore on the rotor but i may be able to cut a gap in the bolt with a thin dremel disc and then use an impact screwdriver to make it budge. heat prior will degrade the loctite so heat it and cool it (water flush or ice spray) then repeat several time to allow for the bolt to dilate and contract braking the loctite down. good luck

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

After all the bolts are removed, make sure you invest in an impact driver. This saves the pain of rounding the heads and you don't have to use heat with the impact driver. They are fairly inexpensive from places like harbor freight.com

 

[sdt354]

Sooo... of course since I commented on this thread, I still managed to round out three heads last night. I sliced a slot in one, heated it, shot it with brake cleaner, pb-blaster, pretty much every solvent I have here... Nothing. I even mangled a nickel and a quarter trying to get this thing to move. There must be half a tube of loctite on there. I don't think any driver bit that I have is going to be wide enough to span the gap of this rounded off center section. Any ideas before I got get a set of easy-outs and my drill (and hope I don't screw up the threads by drilling at an angle)...?[/QghtUOTE

Pull the wheel, get or make a drill guide to square up and hold the bit straight. Heat the bolt blue and let it air cool. This will make it soft enough to drill. Slow drill speed,some oil. I like to drill in steps until the bolt is thin and weak. The easy out next. I use only blue lock-tite on the rotor bolts. Red and green need heat,even with a hand impact.

 

[davesax36]

Just dropped it off at the machine shop.

 

[liptoss]

Had the same thing happen here with 3 out of 6.
Had a DUH moment and spoke to the mechanics at the local shop. They told me to heat up the bolt head with a small torch. I slotted the heads with the Zip Cutter, then used a butane soldering iron with the torch tip. The bolt heated and softened/liquified the Loctite enough. Used a big *** flat screwdriver and voila.

 

[PATMAX]

When I pull mine, I see the blue Loctite on the bolts so I'm guessing anti seize compound would not be recommended. I agree the wheel is softer than the bolt but the bolts are crap to start with. If the heads were deeper maybe that would make it better. Maybe Sean's stainless bolts are better.

 

[likembikem]

i just went through this same thing, almost. My bolt heads almost stripped but somehow came out. I did notice they were way too soft. They were also rusty. So what did I do? Install nice new stainless? No, I ordered and installed OEM bolts (18 total). They were not cheap either. This was for my powder coat wheel job, which is finished now and looking great (btw)!

 

[wildweasel_pt]

You would get better served going dome allen stainless rather than the ****** OEM and probably would pay a 10th of the total cost.

 

[PATMAX]

I'm with WildWeasel, that would be superior to stock, prevent future headaches and probably look better. I would guess most guys won't pull their rotors more than once maybe twice if want to refinish a wheel.
For the cost, why not upgrade to something decent for a minimal cost. I guess most don't know there are options.