WTF was Yamaha thinking with the brown engine covers? Does anybody like the way this looks? Are black replacement covers available? If not, it looks like the 2017 60th anniversary vmax is all black so maybe those should fit.
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I've painted, or powder coated all my 'babyshitbrown' parts to either a semi-gloss black, or ceramic silver coat, including the cam covers, engine covers, front fork lowers, key surround piece, and also the rear brake disc fan thingy and the differential cover on the left rear.
I agree, it does go nicely with that awesome black cherry color.
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Here's an assortment of paint mod pics from the wife's & my 09's.
Most of what was brown is now flat black, with my cam covers being ceramic coated, and also both our rear disc vent pieces in the ceramic, rather than flat black. In a couple of the pics, I had tried a gray metallic powder coat to attempt matching the gray covers from Yamaha, but I didn't like the match, and so, had them re-powder coated in flat black shortly after.
Most of what was brown is now flat black, with my cam covers being ceramic coated, and also both our rear disc vent pieces in the ceramic, rather than flat black. In a couple of the pics, I had tried a gray metallic powder coat to attempt matching the gray covers from Yamaha, but I didn't like the match, and so, had them re-powder coated in flat black shortly after.
I found a web site the supposedly carries the Yamaha colors in a spray can.
http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-0582-mat-black-2-mbl2-1972.cfm
http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-0582-mat-black-2-mbl2-1972.cfm
Ordered the spray paint from Colorite and tested one of the cam covers last night and was very pleased with the results. The color match was beautiful. Well worth the $90 for the kit. The picture shows it a bit dark but its not. That was 15 minutes after it was painted and the light from the flash is deceiving a bit. if you look at the black below the cover you can see the better match in color. I will be doing the remaining covers tonight. So the cam covers are just that.....covers. Are the larger engine covers just covers as well or will I need to drain the oil before I remove them?
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The clutch side cover will have engine oil behind it. If you take it off while on the side stand, oil loss is very minimal. You will prolly need a new gasket to go back on, as usually, the OEM one tears upon 1st removal....mine did. Shala's did too.
The left side is dry, w/o any gasket, and can be removed.
The left rear diff cap serves as the nut where you tighten the axle shaft into. It is sealed, and has a gasket as well. You'd need to have the bike on a stand to remove the rear brake assy, and also back out the axle if you want it off to paint.
The key surround is fairly easy to remove, but you must 1st remove the faux top cover, and it can be a pita the first time around until you learn where all it's bolts are. The seat has to come off for that ass well.
You also have the finned piece that looks like it holds your rear brake disc in place. That one's a CHORE to get off. You would need the wheel off, of course, then you have to remove the disc bolts, and they can be very tight the first time off. They need to be locktited in place.
I can't speak for any of the gray side covers, as both Shala & myself left those alone.
The left side is dry, w/o any gasket, and can be removed.
The left rear diff cap serves as the nut where you tighten the axle shaft into. It is sealed, and has a gasket as well. You'd need to have the bike on a stand to remove the rear brake assy, and also back out the axle if you want it off to paint.
The key surround is fairly easy to remove, but you must 1st remove the faux top cover, and it can be a pita the first time around until you learn where all it's bolts are. The seat has to come off for that ass well.
You also have the finned piece that looks like it holds your rear brake disc in place. That one's a CHORE to get off. You would need the wheel off, of course, then you have to remove the disc bolts, and they can be very tight the first time off. They need to be locktited in place.
I can't speak for any of the gray side covers, as both Shala & myself left those alone.
You would 1st need to remove your brake assy...then the axle & wheel. Then you take out the screws holding the diff cap. You will have some 90w oil come out....just top it off, or better yet, go ahead and change it out entirely after you put the diff cap back on....depending upon total mileage on that oil, I guess.
Almost forgot, you also got that babychit brown color on the lower part of the fork tubes. Most everyone, including myself, remove the front wheel, while supporting the front of the bike with a lift (I did mine under the very front of the engine block). Then mask off EVERYTHING within overspray distance, and then paint.
Brake assembly, axle, and wheel just to remove the cover? Seeing how I don't have a stand for the rear I guess this isn't going to happen. I'll need to wait until I replace the tires and do it at the dealer when the tires are off.
You might as well get yourself, at the very least, a rear lift. Comes in right handy A LOT.
