Arlon
Well-Known Member
If the carburators need to be cleaned, does did need to be done ultrasone? or are there other ways do do this?
Carburator cleaning ultrasone?
- Thread starter Arlon
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There are probably three levels of cleaning:
1) Use a proprietary cleaner such a Seafoam - the most effort you need is opening the tin and fuel cap. Works well as routine maintainace or for light crudisation.
2) Doing the 'Shotgun' or similar. Uses a bit more force to get at the accumulated mud and requires some effort. Used particuarly for blocked idle jets.
3) Ultrasound. When the carbs have more concretion that a cannon that has been under the water for several centuries. A lot of effort as the carbs need to be stripped but your they do come back cleaner than a clean thing that has been cleaned!
Which method you use, to a certain extent, depends on why they need to be cleaned; so when you say 'need' what brings you to that conclusion?
1) Use a proprietary cleaner such a Seafoam - the most effort you need is opening the tin and fuel cap. Works well as routine maintainace or for light crudisation.
2) Doing the 'Shotgun' or similar. Uses a bit more force to get at the accumulated mud and requires some effort. Used particuarly for blocked idle jets.
3) Ultrasound. When the carbs have more concretion that a cannon that has been under the water for several centuries. A lot of effort as the carbs need to be stripped but your they do come back cleaner than a clean thing that has been cleaned!
Which method you use, to a certain extent, depends on why they need to be cleaned; so when you say 'need' what brings you to that conclusion?
Arlon
Well-Known Member
Thx for the reply
Bought the bike last week after a wile standing still in aswell the showroom as being in the garage at the previus owner. Driving the bike now for a 500km it doesn't seam to get better. Engine is not smooth, seams to miss lots of power and sounds like running on 3 legs. Tomorrow I will go back to the dealer who has to clear the problem during warenty time. But just want to have it don all the way and properly. Not just half work.
Bought the bike last week after a wile standing still in aswell the showroom as being in the garage at the previus owner. Driving the bike now for a 500km it doesn't seam to get better. Engine is not smooth, seams to miss lots of power and sounds like running on 3 legs. Tomorrow I will go back to the dealer who has to clear the problem during warenty time. But just want to have it don all the way and properly. Not just half work.
The bike should be of merchantable quality so you will need to get the dealer to ride the bike and make sure they accept there is an issue.
Suggest you get this done before you leave the premises.
If not done before you bought it then the least I would expect would be for the dealer to fit new plugs, oil, fuel and air filters and an oil change. Also a carb sync would be in order. That should ensure that the basics are correct.
Depending on the mileage then you could also ask for evidence that the valve shim clearances have been checked (every 40000 Km).
If it is running on three cylinders then you should be able to feel (without touching - that hurts!) a difference in exhaust temperature.
That could be caused by a bad plug, plug cap or lead. You could also check around the coil tower (I hope it isn't one of the front cylinders - they are a sod to get at) for cracking, burning where the lead fits in or corrosion.
Be careful not to loose the O ring that fit around the lead.
If it idles OK but one cylinder drops out once you start to add revs then check that the throttle slide of the offending cylinder is rising. Easily done with the Faux Tank and air-box covers removed. You will see the slide move up as the throttle is opened but it's not a good idea to do this whilst riding.
A compression (or better still cylinder leakage) test may also be in order.
I did have a DOH! moment when my bike developed a misfire which got progressively worse. Some incompetent buffoon (a.k.a. me) hadn't screwed the plug lead into the plug cap.
Suggest you get this done before you leave the premises.
If not done before you bought it then the least I would expect would be for the dealer to fit new plugs, oil, fuel and air filters and an oil change. Also a carb sync would be in order. That should ensure that the basics are correct.
Depending on the mileage then you could also ask for evidence that the valve shim clearances have been checked (every 40000 Km).
If it is running on three cylinders then you should be able to feel (without touching - that hurts!) a difference in exhaust temperature.
That could be caused by a bad plug, plug cap or lead. You could also check around the coil tower (I hope it isn't one of the front cylinders - they are a sod to get at) for cracking, burning where the lead fits in or corrosion.
Be careful not to loose the O ring that fit around the lead.
If it idles OK but one cylinder drops out once you start to add revs then check that the throttle slide of the offending cylinder is rising. Easily done with the Faux Tank and air-box covers removed. You will see the slide move up as the throttle is opened but it's not a good idea to do this whilst riding.
A compression (or better still cylinder leakage) test may also be in order.
I did have a DOH! moment when my bike developed a misfire which got progressively worse. Some incompetent buffoon (a.k.a. me) hadn't screwed the plug lead into the plug cap.
Arlon
Well-Known Member
This afternoon I bought the bike back to the dealer after I phoned him about it. It still under warenty so HE has a problem.
I picked it up last Thursday. The oil and filter, airfilter and sparkplugs, breackfluid, clutchfluid and coolingfluid where renewed. Also front and back tire renewed. He admidded that the bike was not running 100%
But because the bike was for a while in the showroom and the previus owner didn't drive for a long while, the dealer said to just drive it so it will loosen up a bit.
I was this weekend at a other dealer and asked him to do a short testdrive. This because I'm not having any experiance with V-max bikes. He told me that the bike is missing a lot of power and doesn't drive smooth. Valve clearence was not an issue because of the low milles (11000)
My dealer is now going to check it and I'm curius what will come out.
To be continued.......
I picked it up last Thursday. The oil and filter, airfilter and sparkplugs, breackfluid, clutchfluid and coolingfluid where renewed. Also front and back tire renewed. He admidded that the bike was not running 100%
But because the bike was for a while in the showroom and the previus owner didn't drive for a long while, the dealer said to just drive it so it will loosen up a bit.
I was this weekend at a other dealer and asked him to do a short testdrive. This because I'm not having any experiance with V-max bikes. He told me that the bike is missing a lot of power and doesn't drive smooth. Valve clearence was not an issue because of the low milles (11000)
My dealer is now going to check it and I'm curius what will come out.
To be continued.......
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Any Max that has been standing for a long time will need to have its carbs cleaned. In fact that's prolly true for about 99% of carburetted bikes..
It's a process, and it takes time, but it's not that difficult. I did it without an ultrasonic bath on my '86, just using carb cleaner spray, compressed air and a quick general parts cleaner/degreaser bath. See here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5830
It's a process, and it takes time, but it's not that difficult. I did it without an ultrasonic bath on my '86, just using carb cleaner spray, compressed air and a quick general parts cleaner/degreaser bath. See here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5830
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