ghostntheshell
Well-Known Member
Ok folks! Here's my write up and review of the ceramic coating of my Hindle 4 into 1 full exhaust..
Tools required:
1.) 8mm Hex / Ratchet
2.) Wrench to fit 8mm hex
3.) Can of Krown T40 Lubricant / Rust inhibitor (best stuff I've found)
4.) Needle nose pliers
5.) OEM Gaskets (x4)
6.) Permatex Ultra Copper silicone RTV
Front of the engine:
The front was easy enough. Use the 8mm hex and ratchet to easily remove the 4 bolts from the right and left flange. You should have no problems getting your tools in there for this part of the job. lot's of room.
***IF you are having trouble removing the bolts on the flanges spray them down with the T40 or WD-40 or whatever lube / penetrant you have and let them soak. You don't want to break a bolt here. Patience and let it soak!***
One you have the bolts backed off (mine were an absolute breeze!) - spray the pipe joints with the T40 (or whatever penetrant lube you have on hand).
Remove the pre-tension springs using your pliers (or if you have a spring tool, by all means use it
). These springs don't want to move - so you may have to lever your pliers on the frame to get the leverage. If you do this ALWAYS USE A CLOTH UNDER THE PLIERS TO PREVENT SCRATCHED PAINT. You may not need to lever the pliers, depending on the tension of your springs.
By the time you have the springs off, the T40 should have worked it's magic by now and the pipes should slide off with minimal resistance. Simply twist the pipes ever so slightly to get the process started.
THE REAR OF THE ENGINE:
Oh the rear. Indeed. This proved to be a little more challenging. The ratchet will not fit into the confines of the rear. You will have to use the wrench and secure it around the 8mm Hex bit. Slide the 8mm hex bit into the bolts and use the wrench to turn it. You obviously need all the help you can get here, so feel free to pre-soak / spray the bolts with the T40. Srpay the pipe joints too while your at it.
I found it easiest to remove the right side flange bolts first - as it helped me get into the left flanges inner bolt easier.
I removed the muffler / Canister section at this point to make the collector piece easier to navigate. This piece is easy as pie. Back off the bolt connecting it to the mount, remove the spring underneath, and back it off. Easy as that.
Once you have removed the sprigs from the rear engine pipes (find them all) you are now ready to try and back off the pipes. Again - a little twist of the pipes is usually required to get the process started.
Voila! The system is off!
I soaked all of the springs in T40 (I have a jar I use full of T40) and scrubbed them clean with a wire brush.
=====================================================
The ceramic coat!
=====================================================
At this point I brought them to a local company called fireball coatings www.fireballcoatings.com and requested a black ceramic coating. These guys have a drop off location for the parts in Toronto which made my life a lot easier! The quality of the coating is excellent! Take a look at the before and after pictures provided - you will see the old Hindle was looking rough pre-coat. The finish results are amazing - inside and out. It's like I have a brand new exhaust!
These guys were great to deal with and I would recommend them for their quality product! Inside and out!
before...
after...
Installation of the new ceramic coated pipes:
I started from the rear of the engine and worked my way forward.
I pulled out the old gaskets. Easy to do. Use one side of the needle nose pliars and simply apply some down force (lightly) and voila! They popped out. The FRONT GASKETS were worse off than the rear. The front ones were blackened and the front right (where my leak was) appeared to be melted ever so slightly.
I used brand new OEM Yamaha gaskets. I could have got some 5 bucks cheaper on ebay - but I don't mess around with gaskets - unless the factory one has been recalled. Don't forget to wipe down the area in which the gaskets are seated. You want a perfect fit here.
I covered the nuts bolts with anti-seize.
I installed the rear left flange first - as it was the most difficult to access otherwise.
I used permatex Ultra Copper RTV on the inside of joining pipes...
which is an ugly orange colour. I did find it useful though - because I could see if my pipes were backing themselves out. Clean up also wasn't too bad. It came off easy.
Just install the pipes in the reverse direction you took them off. It help to have a helper on stand by to hold pipes in place when you are trying to jigger another on, twisting it in. Once you have them where you want them, install the springs (I started with the springs closest to the engine and worked my way in.
Hope this helps to anyone curious about what's involved with a custom exhaust install!
A member asked me a few questions concerning the install - so I thought I would add my reply to help out anyone with the same questions...
========================================================================================
Additional hints and tips...
========================================================================================
1.) Drape a few shop towels under your bike. The MAIN collector tube will scrape on the ground putting it on. It's a low hanging system to begin with. It will sit just fine when installed - but your bound to scratch it if you don't have towels or a blanket underneath.
2.) FLANGES first - the longer flanges are for the front - the shorter flanges for the bottom. You won't have any trouble fitting the pipes - as they only fit one way
3.) SHORT TUBES IN THE REAR (x2): To determine the right pipe from the left - Try gently putting them (the two small tubes) into the main collector pipe to see which side will attach to the proper side of the bike. You will quickly see which pipes goes where - as they kinda intertwine. They will fit perfect only one way. Hard to explain - but you will see it's very easy.
4.) The Long tubes (x2) The LONGEST tube goes in the right side of the bike. The shorter - on the left of course. When you have the long tubes installed, you can add the springs to help hold them in place for you - because I guarantee they will fall out as you try and navigate the 4 pipes into the main collector
5.) Use anti-seize on the head bolts You never know when you will need to take em off.
6.) SPRINGS - I doused mine in T40 for about a week. A good anti-rust coating. Don't have to - and will likely burn off and need to be re-applied - but keeps things nice.
7.) I know for my ceramic coating - fireballcoatings has advised me to do a couple low rpm idle (10-15 minute spans) heat ups for the ceramic coating.
Hope this helps - if you have ANY questions, just write me again
________
half-baked
Tools required:
1.) 8mm Hex / Ratchet
2.) Wrench to fit 8mm hex
3.) Can of Krown T40 Lubricant / Rust inhibitor (best stuff I've found)
4.) Needle nose pliers
5.) OEM Gaskets (x4)
6.) Permatex Ultra Copper silicone RTV
Front of the engine:
The front was easy enough. Use the 8mm hex and ratchet to easily remove the 4 bolts from the right and left flange. You should have no problems getting your tools in there for this part of the job. lot's of room.
***IF you are having trouble removing the bolts on the flanges spray them down with the T40 or WD-40 or whatever lube / penetrant you have and let them soak. You don't want to break a bolt here. Patience and let it soak!***
One you have the bolts backed off (mine were an absolute breeze!) - spray the pipe joints with the T40 (or whatever penetrant lube you have on hand).
Remove the pre-tension springs using your pliers (or if you have a spring tool, by all means use it
). These springs don't want to move - so you may have to lever your pliers on the frame to get the leverage. If you do this ALWAYS USE A CLOTH UNDER THE PLIERS TO PREVENT SCRATCHED PAINT. You may not need to lever the pliers, depending on the tension of your springs. By the time you have the springs off, the T40 should have worked it's magic by now and the pipes should slide off with minimal resistance. Simply twist the pipes ever so slightly to get the process started.
THE REAR OF THE ENGINE:
Oh the rear. Indeed. This proved to be a little more challenging. The ratchet will not fit into the confines of the rear. You will have to use the wrench and secure it around the 8mm Hex bit. Slide the 8mm hex bit into the bolts and use the wrench to turn it. You obviously need all the help you can get here, so feel free to pre-soak / spray the bolts with the T40. Srpay the pipe joints too while your at it.
I found it easiest to remove the right side flange bolts first - as it helped me get into the left flanges inner bolt easier.
I removed the muffler / Canister section at this point to make the collector piece easier to navigate. This piece is easy as pie. Back off the bolt connecting it to the mount, remove the spring underneath, and back it off. Easy as that.
Once you have removed the sprigs from the rear engine pipes (find them all) you are now ready to try and back off the pipes. Again - a little twist of the pipes is usually required to get the process started.
Voila! The system is off!
I soaked all of the springs in T40 (I have a jar I use full of T40) and scrubbed them clean with a wire brush.
=====================================================
The ceramic coat!
=====================================================
At this point I brought them to a local company called fireball coatings www.fireballcoatings.com and requested a black ceramic coating. These guys have a drop off location for the parts in Toronto which made my life a lot easier! The quality of the coating is excellent! Take a look at the before and after pictures provided - you will see the old Hindle was looking rough pre-coat. The finish results are amazing - inside and out. It's like I have a brand new exhaust!
These guys were great to deal with and I would recommend them for their quality product! Inside and out!
before...
after...
Installation of the new ceramic coated pipes:
I started from the rear of the engine and worked my way forward.
I pulled out the old gaskets. Easy to do. Use one side of the needle nose pliars and simply apply some down force (lightly) and voila! They popped out. The FRONT GASKETS were worse off than the rear. The front ones were blackened and the front right (where my leak was) appeared to be melted ever so slightly.
I used brand new OEM Yamaha gaskets. I could have got some 5 bucks cheaper on ebay - but I don't mess around with gaskets - unless the factory one has been recalled. Don't forget to wipe down the area in which the gaskets are seated. You want a perfect fit here.
I covered the nuts bolts with anti-seize.
I installed the rear left flange first - as it was the most difficult to access otherwise.
I used permatex Ultra Copper RTV on the inside of joining pipes...
which is an ugly orange colour. I did find it useful though - because I could see if my pipes were backing themselves out. Clean up also wasn't too bad. It came off easy.
Just install the pipes in the reverse direction you took them off. It help to have a helper on stand by to hold pipes in place when you are trying to jigger another on, twisting it in. Once you have them where you want them, install the springs (I started with the springs closest to the engine and worked my way in.
Hope this helps to anyone curious about what's involved with a custom exhaust install!
A member asked me a few questions concerning the install - so I thought I would add my reply to help out anyone with the same questions...
========================================================================================
Additional hints and tips...
========================================================================================
1.) Drape a few shop towels under your bike. The MAIN collector tube will scrape on the ground putting it on. It's a low hanging system to begin with. It will sit just fine when installed - but your bound to scratch it if you don't have towels or a blanket underneath.
2.) FLANGES first - the longer flanges are for the front - the shorter flanges for the bottom. You won't have any trouble fitting the pipes - as they only fit one way
3.) SHORT TUBES IN THE REAR (x2): To determine the right pipe from the left - Try gently putting them (the two small tubes) into the main collector pipe to see which side will attach to the proper side of the bike. You will quickly see which pipes goes where - as they kinda intertwine. They will fit perfect only one way. Hard to explain - but you will see it's very easy.
4.) The Long tubes (x2) The LONGEST tube goes in the right side of the bike. The shorter - on the left of course. When you have the long tubes installed, you can add the springs to help hold them in place for you - because I guarantee they will fall out as you try and navigate the 4 pipes into the main collector
5.) Use anti-seize on the head bolts
You never know when you will need to take em off.6.) SPRINGS - I doused mine in T40 for about a week. A good anti-rust coating. Don't have to - and will likely burn off and need to be re-applied - but keeps things nice.
7.) I know for my ceramic coating - fireballcoatings has advised me to do a couple low rpm idle (10-15 minute spans) heat ups for the ceramic coating.
Hope this helps - if you have ANY questions, just write me again
________
half-baked
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