Clutch assistance, maybe at Thunder 2015?

[HyperPete]

Greetings!

I don't know if I have an actual problem or not, so I'm reaching out for some assistance, perhaps during Thunder 2015. If I rest my hand on the clutch lever in the lower gears, that is about all of the pressure needed to engage it and make it slip while accelerating. I don't know how sensitive they are supposed to be, but that seems a bit excessive to me.

When I bought the bike, the previous owner told me that he always used Castrol GTX oil in it. Since I have gotten it I have used Rotella-T, and the oil has been changed 2 or 3 times. The bike has 36,600 miles on it, and I do not know service history.

Is this getting near time for a new clutch? If so, would someone help me with it at Thunder? I am mechanically apt, but the only motorcycle clutches I have done were on old dirt bikes (CR125, DT175, XT500.) I imagine that the VMax clutch is more complex than these, and I don't want to screw up my bike!

I have checked the master cylinder to see if the return orifice might be plugged, and they are fine. I made sure that it was not low on fluid or overfilled.

Lastly, I presume I'll need fibres, hopefully not steels. (Ill use some fine Emory cloth to condition them, and a piece of glass to put it on) I'll also probably need a gasket, and brake fluid to run through the system... anything else? RTV for the gasket, or Yamabond? Are there any special tools needed for a clutch overhaul? Sean, I presume you have a "kit" with everything I would need?

Thanks in advance, I hope this is not too presumptuous of me to make this request.

 

[Damon]

Tyler & I are sponsoring a tech session on Friday during the Thunder event, we would be glad to help with your clutch issue.

 

[HyperPete]

You guys are great! You diagnosed my bad Stator / rectifier last year.
Are 36,600 miles a lot for a clutch? What parts should I bring?
Thank you!

 

[ga_max]

I can't make it to Thunder but if you do this project please take pictures and create a thread for the benefit of the rest of us.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Mine started to slip at a similar mileage.

It is a very strait forward job to do so if you are (were) competent to work on the CR125, DT175, XT500's then you will find the Max very familiar. The only major difference may be the diaphragm clutch spring.

If you put the bike on the side stand then there will be minimal oil loss. Usual workshop tools (spanners, allen key and torque wrench) are all that you need as there are no special tools are required. You should soak the new friction plates in oil overnight before fitting.
A strait edge would be useful to check the steels for flatness although you will get a pretty good idea by holding them against each other. A light wipe over with wet 'n dry if you feel like it , only really necessary if very lightly blued. If there are signs of significant overheating (unlikely) then best to replace.
This is a job than can easily be done in a couple of hours including the 'must be done immediately' tasks that nearest and dearest always find when hands are oily.....it also allows for finding the part or tool you put down seconds before but which has been swallowed by the Black Hole that lurks in every garage.
Job sorted and you can enjoy TitV without need in to take time out mending your bike. :biglaugh:

 

[HyperPete]

Thank you MaxMidnight, that is what I wanted to hear!

I found this thread: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=32035
and it has a lot of good information in it. I guess I should plan to replace the 1/2 disk in the back of the pack with a full one unless I have misread it. I may also look into the Double-D mod. (Does anyone have a spare used clutch spring??)

So maybe I should get TWO clutch cover gaskets - one for inspection, and then one for repair after I order any additional needed parts if I don't want to be without the VMax.

GA_Max, I'll do my best to take lots of photos and throw something together along the lines of a how-to.

 

[scuff]

rub some grease on the clutch cover gasket and it will come off intact and will still seal with no leaks

 

[HyperPete]

Good tip, Scuff, Thank you!
I guess that means no sealant is necessary on it either!

 

[scuff]

yep no sealant you should be fine

 

[MaxMidnight]

Pete,
IMHO with new friction plates and a standard motor the clutch is sufficient for most riders.

If you decide to swap the half plate for a full one any benefit will be negligible until you get some wear on the frictions. You will also notice the clutch is a little noisier and the quality of the gear change less smooth - it tends to thump in gear rather than a smooth snick. I haven't found either to be a significant issue for me.
I haven't done a double D (have a lock-up clutch) but from what I have read this will result in greater effort needed. Not an issue if you loosen nuts with your fingers but may be if opening a wet paper bag is a challenge.
.

 

[scuff]

I've replaced the half disk with a full one and put a PCW spring instead of the dbl D, I purchased it all from Sean Morley, I can't say I noticed any difference in clutch pull with that but definitely hooks up nicely

 

[jagco1]

Did you change the levels to after market 1's. If did you need to use the stock brass fitting or drill out the silver fitting the come's with the new lever. Not sure this is your problem though.

My clutch grabs right at the top pull.

 

[HyperPete]

Levers are stock levers. I have lubed the bolt and bushing too.

I have sent Sean an email re: parts too.