Clutch handle is spongy no resitance

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Arnoud

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Oct 1, 2024
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Location
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GM All,

Hope you are all well.
Question, after I have removed my engine oil and did the O-ring mod on my vmax 1992 1200. I am assembling all back.
I found after refilling the oil and changing the dot4 fluid (air out) that my handle for the clutch has no resistance? I am I missing something?

Pointers would be helpfull and much appreciated.

Thanks,
 
Assuming:
  1. It was working correctly before 2) & 3)
  2. That you didn't do anything to the clutch release mechanism (?)
  3. Just changed the fluid (?)
Then it is likely you still have air in the system. I find the best way to fully purge the air is to reverse bleed as air flows better uphill. Icing on the cake is to tie the lever back overnight which allows the very small bubbles to migrate to the top and escape.
 
Assuming:
  1. It was working correctly before 2) & 3)
  2. That you didn't do anything to the clutch release mechanism (?)
  3. Just changed the fluid (?)
Then it is likely you still have air in the system. I find the best way to fully purge the air is to reverse bleed as air flows better uphill. Icing on the cake is to tie the lever back overnight which allows the very small bubbles to migrate to the top and escape.
I will try that leave it overnight. I have used a bleed system with compressor, and the conventional way found once in a while air comes out. Thanks.
 
I have to say Arnoud, I have had nothing but misery bleeding any of the hydraulics on my 85, it always takes forever, it seems anyway. Midnight’s suggestion is a good place to start.
Good luck.
 
I have to say Arnoud, I have had nothing but misery bleeding any of the hydraulics on my 85, it always takes forever, it seems anyway. Midnight’s suggestion is a good place to start.
Good luck.
Thanks, i think i am getting there needed to keep pumping with the bleed closed and build up pressure. Squeeze the handle open the bleed air out close the bleed and let go of the handle and pumping again.. after a while I started to feel resistance and now I have tied back the handle.
Fingers crossed for tommorow morning
 
MM and I both are in agreement on the process of a reverse bleed doing a good job. Anyone who has one of the pressure bleeders probably will be able to accomplish similar results. The end game is to have a good firm pull at the lever after taking up a bit of free play.

If anyone is having problem with the front brake the rear brake or the clutch I strongly suggest that the reverse bleed process will do the job. If you have the dosh to buy one of the pressure bleeder cans and a compressor to hook it to, that will also give you good results when used properly.

The thing I always remember in doing a reverse bleed is that bubbles rise and by injecting fresh fluid at the bleeder wherever it may be front brake rear brake or clutch, you should quickly and easily get good results. If you try a reverse bleed on the clutch and you do not have good results you should check the slave cylinder as that may be in need of a rebuild.

Some reading for you:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-not-engaging-disengaging.52850/#post-530622
 
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