clutch repair

[robike_75]

Hi all, Once again I'am having trouble with my clutch (1998). The last time I drove it, it started creeping foreward before I let the clutch out. I fixed the problem last time by changing the fluid and bleeding. That lasted about six weeks. I have no leaks, so I guess its the master cylinder. Do any of you guys know where I can buy a rebuild kit in a hurry as the good weather will be gone soon here in Pa. Thanks for any help you can give. On a 2nd note I don't post much because I don't have much to say, but I do enjoy you guys going on and on about certain subjects. Keep up the good work. I'am glad to be a part of the Vmax community. Mike

 

[gamorg02]

sean might have one in stock (one2dmax)

 

[jfeagins]

You probably just have an air bubble stuck in there up near the banjo bolt. You might try carefully opening it just a bit and burp it to see if there's a bubble present. I've had it happen a few times over the years, even though I faithfully bleed annually in the spring. A quick re-bleed there at the handlebars was enough to eliminate the problem for the rest of the year.

 

[one2dmax]

I've got slave rebuild kits as well as all the clutch parts on hand. Just email me directly if you are needing something.

Sean
[email protected]

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Try to bleed it backwards. Thats what i do usually. Get a big syringe with some crystal hose (one that fits tight on the lower bleeder) and pump fluid from lower bleeder to the master, its easier to push the bubbles out, you are pushing on the natural direction for them to go and not against it.

 

[naughtyG]

Try to bleed it backwards. Thats what i do usually. Get a big syringe with some crystal hose (one that fits tight on the lower bleeder) and pump fluid from lower bleeder to the master, its easier to push the bubbles out, you are pushing on the natural direction for them to go and not against it.

..and that is the only way I've ever managed to bleed my clutch. Seconded!

 

[95spfldmax]

Try to bleed it backwards. Thats what i do usually. Get a big syringe with some crystal hose (one that fits tight on the lower bleeder) and pump fluid from lower bleeder to the master, its easier to push the bubbles out, you are pushing on the natural direction for them to go and not against it.

Do you have to crack open the m/c lever when you do this??

 

[[email protected]]

When you guys are using the syringe, is it large enough to fill the entire brake line in one stroke?

If not, how do you re-fill the syringe and start pushing fluid again without introducing air in the system?

I seem to have trouble bleeding the clutch too. I'd rather put in a set of solid mounts than install a new clutch master cylinder and bleed the line again, LOL

 

[SpecOps13]

Master cylinder is an easy task to accomplish. I did have to bleed mine through the top, pumping the lever slowly and watching the bubbles pop up for about a half hour. It's worked perfect ever since.... Good Luck.... We'd be happy to have you post more and join in the BS we get ourselves into.....

 

[robike_75]

Thanks guys. Sent sean a p.m. I'll see how that works. This is the second time playing with the clutch. I just want to ride, not repair. I'am lazy. Later Mike

 

[sdt354]

I'll bet air, which means a possible leak, is a probable cause. The Mighty Vac is a big help on clutch and brakes. Harbor Freight has a better one I believe. It's brass in some areas. Mighty Vac is all plastic. I've also had good luck gravity bleeding while I'm doing something else around the bike. I put a clear tube into a clear container so I can see the air, and put a wire tie on it at the bleeder, then crack the bleeder open a little. Of course you have to tend the master and not run dry. or it's start over time. Tapping the line, vibrations all can help. It's never been a quickie job for me, but very doable for anyone. There should be some good threads you can read too. The syringe method I'll try next time I do it too. And large capacity syringe like Mike mentioned.
If anyone has an old cover they don't want, clutch or brake, I have an idea for pressurizing the master, which will need to be full to the top, with the syringe while opening the bleeder. I'll have to secure the syringe air tight to the cover, which isn't a problem. Kind of like the old auto type pressure bleeding setups, but without the air bladder. Then, suck out excess when done till the level is good. If it works well, I'll post the whole setup.
Steve-o

 

[Lew L]

I recently put " speedbleeders" on both my bikes ( brakes and clutches) It is so easy to flush and change fluids. Both bikes came out with hard brakes and fully operable clutches first time.

Lew

 

[Jas12]

Might just need to be bled again. I had this happen to me last week. I've only had my Max for a few weeks, so I took my time, and started at the bottom of the line looking for leaks, and working my way back to the reservoir. Line and banjos were squeaky clean and dry, and as soon as I shined my light directly on the reservoir, I could see the problem. There wasn't really a leak, but residue all around the cover. I took off the cover, and found some sediment around the diaphragm and cover. Cleaned it all off, and added some fresh fluid (level was a little low, but not empty.) I started pumping the lever, and immediately got bubbles from the line. Kept pumping until I didn't see any more bubbles, then put it all back together. The clutch was still dragging a bit, so I jostled the bike around a little, took the top off and bled it again. Got a couple more bubbles, and this time I kept pumping for a while after the last bubbles appeared. Put it back together, and everything is as good as new. Never opened the bleeder at the bottom. The cover and diaphragm looked undamaged, and I'm not seeing any more residue around the cover. If it goes again, I may rebuild. Speed bleeders probably wouldn't hurt either.