ColtMax's 1997 restoration thread - INDEX

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ColtMax

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My Vmax has 144 000 km and still runs great, I would like to make sure that it runs this way for many more KMs as I share a particular story with this Vmax.
This series of thread will cover my journey through the strategy selection and overhaul process of this bike. I am not a professional mechanic but I do have good experience with fixing motorcycles and cars.

The plan for 2025 winter consists of the followings: (click on the topic to access associated thread)
1 - overhaul of the front fork with Progressive Suspension springs
2 - steering head bearings
3 - wheel bearings and seals
4 - brake discs and pads
5 - brake calipers overhaul
6 - brake and clutch master cylinders
7 - clutch friction discs and metal discs
8 - clutch double D mod - I have bought the extra spring, but not sure if I will go through with this.
9 - clutch slave cylinder overhaul
10 - carburetors overhaul
11 - intake and v-boost boots
12 - fuel filter
13 - thermostat replacement
14 - drive shaft seals and re-shimming
15 - engine valves adjustments and valve cover gaskets
16 - Progressive suspension rear shocks (444-4020B) intended for Harley's, but very similar specs to the discontinued VMax 444s.
17 - cleaning, polishing, brushing and clear coating some aluminum components such as the scoops and side covers.

I welcome all suggestions such as "while you are at it" or "you should do it this way".
Hope this can be useful to others too.

So, let's get started! :)
 
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Since your going this far on the forks, I would suggest setting the sag as well. It's easy to do with either cutting off, or a longer piece of pvc piping.
I guess this is achieved by cutting the white tubes supplied in the Progressive kit? I'll do some reading on that. Thanks for mentioning it :)
 
Depending upon on how hard/enthusiastically you use your bike, Race-Tech offers specific resistance springs based upon your weight ready-to-ride, and how you ride. Something to consider, instead of a one-size fits-all Progressive Suspension pair of springs. I have both, and I prefer the Race-Tech, you may be perfectly content with the P.S.

One thing you didn't mention about the front suspension, is adding cartridge emulators, another Race-Tech item. They change the traditional oil-based damper rods' function to like wave washer stacks, using coil springs which are adjustable, and if you take the time to set them up properly. your front-end handling improves greatly. RICOR is another company which has a similar product. YSS used to offer one as well, but I haven't seen that for awhile.

An example: https://www.partsgiant.com/p348768-race-tech-fork-springs?f=116151&r=vt-25

https://www.partsgiant.com/p350481-race-tech-gold-valve-cartridge-fork-emulator?r=vt-25

Do you have The Hulk grip strength? The 'double disc' diaphragm spring modification is great if you're going to abuse the clutch at the dragstrip, but if you're in an urban 'stop & go' traffic environment, I suspect you will soon grow tired of the excess effort it requires. PCW in upstate NY offered a heavy-duty single diaphragm spring, not sure if they're still around. I got one from them and also added another friction disc, while removing the innermost pieces in the clutch pack, like the narrow 'steelie' and the wire spring to make room for the additional friction disc. Sean Morley may have the replacement heavy-duty diaphragm spring as well.

About the clutch and front brake (and the clutch slave cylinder and the rear disc brake master cyl.), I can understand wanting to overhaul them based upon your mileage attained. They're simple to work upon, and a rebuild kit from OEM or a quality aftermarket supplier like All-Balls is easy to install. I think I'd be inclined to use what you have until they start to not work. What that period of use is, you just need to 'wait & see.' They're both (clutch & front brake master cylinders) 5/8" if you want to replace them with something fancy/aftermarket.

I didn't see mention of brake/clutch hoses, and those are items which should be replaced, if you're on the OEM hoses. Stainless steel braided lines are popular, and they expand under load less-than OEM rubber does. You may already have replaced the hoses, I don't know. I am a fan of the 'reverse-bleed' for non-ABS brakes and the clutch (especially) as it does the job quickly and efficiently. If you aren't familiar with that, use the search function: reverse-bleed and my screen name.

You're sure to get lots of suggestions, and I bet many members will see your posts and follow your examples of work being accomplished. We all like the write-ups, and pictures, lots of pictures. Have at-it.
 
Depending upon on how hard/enthusiastically you use your bike, Race-Tech offers specific resistance springs based upon your weight ready-to-ride, and how you ride. Something to consider, instead of a one-size fits-all Progressive Suspension pair of springs. I have both, and I prefer the Race-Tech, you may be perfectly content with the P.S.

One thing you didn't mention about the front suspension, is adding cartridge emulators, another Race-Tech item. They change the traditional oil-based damper rods' function to like wave washer stacks, using coil springs which are adjustable, and if you take the time to set them up properly. your front-end handling improves greatly. RICOR is another company which has a similar product. YSS used to offer one as well, but I haven't seen that for awhile.

An example: https://www.partsgiant.com/p348768-race-tech-fork-springs?f=116151&r=vt-25

https://www.partsgiant.com/p350481-race-tech-gold-valve-cartridge-fork-emulator?r=vt-25

Do you have The Hulk grip strength? The 'double disc' diaphragm spring modification is great if you're going to abuse the clutch at the dragstrip, but if you're in an urban 'stop & go' traffic environment, I suspect you will soon grow tired of the excess effort it requires. PCW in upstate NY offered a heavy-duty single diaphragm spring, not sure if they're still around. I got one from them and also added another friction disc, while removing the innermost pieces in the clutch pack, like the narrow 'steelie' and the wire spring to make room for the additional friction disc. Sean Morley may have the replacement heavy-duty diaphragm spring as well.

About the clutch and front brake (and the clutch slave cylinder and the rear disc brake master cyl.), I can understand wanting to overhaul them based upon your mileage attained. They're simple to work upon, and a rebuild kit from OEM or a quality aftermarket supplier like All-Balls is easy to install. I think I'd be inclined to use what you have until they start to not work. What that period of use is, you just need to 'wait & see.' They're both (clutch & front brake master cylinders) 5/8" if you want to replace them with something fancy/aftermarket.

I didn't see mention of brake/clutch hoses, and those are items which should be replaced, if you're on the OEM hoses. Stainless steel braided lines are popular, and they expand under load less-than OEM rubber does. You may already have replaced the hoses, I don't know. I am a fan of the 'reverse-bleed' for non-ABS brakes and the clutch (especially) as it does the job quickly and efficiently. If you aren't familiar with that, use the search function: reverse-bleed and my screen name.

You're sure to get lots of suggestions, and I bet many members will see your posts and follow your examples of work being accomplished. We all like the write-ups, and pictures, lots of pictures. Have at-it.
That's a very good point. I should specify the available options and what made me select a particular option over another one.

Supension wise, I use my bike for cruising and small trips mainly. I ride solo most of the time, but my wife loves to join. The roads up here are in terrible condition. I was told that the progressive springs were a good all around solution for the money the set you back, that's why I am going with them in the front fork and in the back (444s).

On the clutch side, I got the same comment on FB about the extra stiff handle. Since I'll be riding this bike in 8-10hour road trip and might hit some traffic, I am not sure I need that extra clutch grip, especially if I cannot operate the clutch properly at the end of the day. I will stick with replacing the half disc with a full one and changing all friction and metal discs in my clutch. Oh, and I am also doing the newer gear selector segment mod.

Do you have any recommendation for SS braided lines? I'll see if that fits the budget for this year (not much margin left ;) ).
I'll educate myself on the reverse bleed procedure, I have a Brake Vacuum bleeding kit if that helps.

I am now wondering If I should open dedicated threads for each chapter of my adventure and keep this thread as the index and prelude.

Thanks again for all of the great advices and tips.
 
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