Couple questions and a funny story - I guess

[mgrowc1]

Start with the Q&A - first thanks to all for the help so far.

When you turn on your vmax - ignition on then to run do you get a deep ggrrrrrr sound for about 3 seconds? I know you can hear a little sound but this one is louder and deeper. I get this about 50% of the time. Sounds come from below my knees. Strange as it never did it or I never noticed until I messed with the throttle cable - well the idle speed knob. Only had the bike 3 days so I may have missed it.

Oil. I asked my friends at Yamaha how they check the oil as I was reading some guys on here say they check it on the stand? They said put it up right and look at it? Did this and what level should it be? Almost the whole glass was filled when stood up, could not see any when leaning on the stand. The reason I ask is that I thought I was good then this morning when shifting from first to second the oil light flashed on for a second. I know the oil moved around but still it must be low?

Last one for now. After adjusting my idle to about 1,000 or so bike started doing weird things. When cruising if I pulled in the clutch bike would still rev at about 5,000 (or changing gear). When pulling to a stop it would either go back to 1,000 or stay at about 3,000 then eventually go back - maybe 30 seconds. Very very odd. We turned the idle back down to what it was and problem is gone again??? now is idling too low - 4-600.

Anyway my bike is going to my mates tonight, he builds bikes so knows a lot more than me. My bike has sat, no doubt there 2003 with 6,000 miles. 400 the last 18 months from my friend who I bought it from so I am getting the works done.

Carbs getting taken off rebuilt/cleaned whatever it is that gets done here (sea foam helped but still want it to run better). Tank is getting treated by my friend and brakes will be bled. I just got a new oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, oil (Yam 20w50 not synthetic yet - 6,000 mile), shaft oil. All going to be done this weekend which should solve all my issues. Can't wait.
- Did I miss anything?

Oh kinda funny story. So I work at 6 am leave my house around 5.45 or so. Got outside this morning, took the cover off max choke on let sit for a sec. I chain the wheel to a pillar at my front door - literally in my front door so people wont mess with it. Anyway I never did that with my magna so I forgot - oops. I drove - pillar came crashing down. To be honest I would much rather that than me screw the bike up. The chain did get caught with the lock in the front wheel/fender mud flap but I yanked it out and no damage thank god. I did actually manage to get the pillar back up but was a bitch. Was surprised how easy max pulled it down, I didn’t even notice it snagged until the pillar almost hit me. Think I could tow my car with that torque.

Thanks,

 

[4gasem]

Start with the Q&A - first thanks to all for the help so far.

When you turn on your vmax - ignition on then to run do you get a deep ggrrrrrr sound for about 3 seconds? I know you can hear a little sound but this one is louder and deeper. I get this about 50% of the time. Sounds come from below my knees. Strange as it never did it or I never noticed until I messed with the throttle cable - well the idle speed knob. Only had the bike 3 days so I may have missed it. It's the fuel pump making the Grrrr sound and the other sound is V-boost going through its start-up procedure.

Oil. I asked my friends at Yamaha how they check the oil as I was reading some guys on here say they check it on the stand? They said put it up right and look at it? Did this and what level should it be? Almost the whole glass was filled when stood up, could not see any when leaning on the stand. The reason I ask is that I thought I was good then this morning when shifting from first to second the oil light flashed on for a second. I know the oil moved around but still it must be low? All is totally normal... There are lines on the block that tell you low and high marks. A small bubble at the top when holding the bike even on even ground is right. The red light coming on is normal as the sender is in the front of the pan and the pickup is in the back of the pan.

Last one for now. After adjusting my idle to about 1,000 or so bike started doing weird things. When cruising if I pulled in the clutch bike would still rev at about 5,000 (or changing gear). When pulling to a stop it would either go back to 1,000 or stay at about 3,000 then eventually go back - maybe 30 seconds. Very very odd. We turned the idle back down to what it was and problem is gone again??? now is idling too low - 4-600. That is weird... If the bike runs well other wise I wouldn't bother removing the carbs quite yet. I would make sure you sync them up. Keeping in mind that the Vmax has a static set carb in the front left so the other three get adjusted to be like it. (that's different than how other bikes work)

Anyway my bike is going to my mates tonight, he builds bikes so knows a lot more than me. My bike has sat, no doubt there 2003 with 6,000 miles. 400 the last 18 months from my friend who I bought it from so I am getting the works done.

Carbs getting taken off rebuilt/cleaned whatever it is that gets done here (sea foam helped but still want it to run better). Tank is getting treated by my friend and brakes will be bled. I just got a new oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, oil (Yam 20w50 not synthetic yet - 6,000 mile), shaft oil. All going to be done this weekend which should solve all my issues. Can't wait.
- Did I miss anything? There's NO reason why you can't run synthetic in your bike by 6000 miles... I'm not a 20w50 guy as I believe it's just to much for the water cooled max. 15W40 is as high as I would go. Believe it or not Shell Rotella T 15W40 is highly used by the Vmax community. Diesel oils have a higher zinc content to them which transmissions like a lot.

Oh kinda funny story. So I work at 6 am leave my house around 5.45 or so. Got outside this morning, took the cover off max choke on let sit for a sec. I chain the wheel to a pillar at my front door - literally in my front door so people wont mess with it. Anyway I never did that with my magna so I forgot - oops. I drove - pillar came crashing down. To be honest I would much rather that than me screw the bike up. The chain did get caught with the lock in the front wheel/fender mud flap but I yanked it out and no damage thank god. I did actually manage to get the pillar back up but was a bitch. Was surprised how easy max pulled it down, I didn?t even notice it snagged until the pillar almost hit me. Think I could tow my car with that torque.

Thanks,

See above in red... The above is of course my opinions.

Remember to use the search feature here as well. Everything you asked is actually here. In advanced search there is a "look up by tag" feature which means you put a word like OIL in and it comes up with a ton of threads with OIL as a tag that the poster used.

Good luck and remember the vmax carbs are NOT like others out there so make DAMN sure your buddy knows VMAX carbs. There's always the VMF links page with tons of links to carb work, like cleaning and syncing which I would print off and use.

Chris

 

[mgrowc1]

hhmmm I will have to talk to him or show him this thread and see what he thinks about the carbs. I did not know what you just said.

As for the 20w50 that's what the yam techs told me down here to use. I am in Louisiana where it is plus 100 daily and humid as hell.

 

[naughtyG]

I use Shell Rotella-T 15W 50 in Florida - 100 everyday and super humid too. So far so good!

 

[gamorg02]

chris has taken care of ya! i would also not always jump into rebuilding carbs. i would run a few tanks thru her with some seafoam and see if that helps your issue. I know some guys lightly take a rubber mallet and tap the carbs to clear up anything sticking.

my '03 had 1808 miles when i picked it up in october and it runs great right now. haven't needed to rebuild at all. just lots of miles and seafoam. also use shell gas if you can, that stuff gives me 2/3 MPG better per grade.

i only run yamah 20w-50 and a lot of guys here do as well. do the research and decide for yourself. whatever you use just change it regularly and u'll be fine!

 

[4gasem]

hhmmm I will have to talk to him or show him this thread and see what he thinks about the carbs. I did not know what you just said.

As for the 20w50 that's what the yam techs told me down here to use. I am in Louisiana where it is plus 100 daily and humid as hell.

It's water cooled... If it was a Hardly I'd say hell yeah 20W50 but it's not. I ride in 95?+ temps with NO issues. Remember the FIRST number is basically cold viscosity and the second is operating temp viscosity so you're not giving up much when warm but your cold starting will allow the oil to flow faster when the first number is lower.

I would suggest you google the key words were shooting at you and check out the VMF links.

The Vmax IS different and I have seen MANY so called experienced mechanics FUCK them up royally... Just ask around here...

Chris

 

[mgrowc1]

really appreciate the input! Well anyone have any ideas as to why it is "stickking" when the idle is higher like in my original post? That is what was leaning me towards the carb rebuild? I have all ready noticed a slight improvement with sea foam only half a tank with 1/4 a bottle. So another 3 tanks left on that bottle. Thing that bother me is when idling it seems to skip. Like sits at 1000 then good good good skip down to 500 then back up. When it idled lower it would cut out.

I am more worried about the sticking though. Hasn't done it since I turned the idle back down though!

 

[mgrowc1]

also, i do get a very occasional pop when de-celerating

 

[gamorg02]

really appreciate the input! Well anyone have any ideas as to why it is "stickking" when the idle is higher like in my original post? That is what was leaning me towards the carb rebuild? I have all ready noticed a slight improvement with sea foam only half a tank with 1/4 a bottle. So another 3 tanks left on that bottle. Thing that bother me is when idling it seems to skip. Like sits at 1000 then good good good skip down to 500 then back up. When it idled lower it would cut out.

I am more worried about the sticking though. Hasn't done it since I turned the idle back down though!

i'd give it two tanks before u start relaly getting into it

 

[4gasem]

I'd really check your idle circuit and then make sure it's sync'd.

 

[mgrowc1]

Never done that before. How do I go about that?

I spoke with my friend (GM at Yamaha) and he told me to leave the carbs for a while. Will not do any damage so just see how it goes for now, run sea foam. This bike has only had 400 miles put on it in 2 years so I am gonna take it on some trips and see what comes of it. Still doing all the other stuff (filters etc) just going to leave the carbs completely alone for now.

I have no other vmax to compare to but it seems to be running great other than the sticking and the idling issues which I cannot fiigure out and is driving me crazy.

Oh an why does the fuel pum only make that grrr sound sometimes?

 

[gamorg02]

Never done that before. How do I go about that?

I spoke with my friend (GM at Yamaha) and he told me to leave the carbs for a while. Will not do any damage so just see how it goes for now, run sea foam. This bike has only had 400 miles put on it in 2 years so I am gonna take it on some trips and see what comes of it. Still doing all the other stuff (filters etc) just going to leave the carbs completely alone for now.

I have no other vmax to compare to but it seems to be running great other than the sticking and the idling issues which I cannot fiigure out and is driving me crazy.

Oh an why does the fuel pum only make that grrr sound sometimes?

depends how much gas evaporates/goes back into the tank...

does it stick all the time? can u take a vid and post it on youtube?

 

[mgrowc1]

Nope it does not stick all the time so a vid would be tough.
This is the best way to explain what has happened.
When I got the bike it idled at 500 and struggled without the choke. Often cut out. So turned it up to about 1100. Which was a bitch, didn't seem to make much diff at first but eventually with enough turns got it to 1100. So i drove it round parking lot. it then idled at 3,000 so I turned it back down to 1,100. Almost like the throttle cable didn't grip then did too much.

Anyway so left it at that. Went on a ride when up over 4,000 cruising and changing gear the revs stayed at 4,000 or 3,000. Then a couple times when coming to light it stuck at 3,000 for 20 seconds. Id rev and rev and then eventually it would drop back down. So, turned the idle back down to about 800 which it is at currently and did not have that issue again but I am guessing I would turning the idle back up again.

Completely lost

 

[gamorg02]

ah ok i follow... can u take the left side H cover off and turn your idle speed back up? ensure the stopper is resting on the screw (esp when it happens if possible)? are your bars and throttle cables stock? make sure nothing is getting pinched.

idle speed should also be right at 1k

 

[mgrowc1]

This is my first vmax so completely new. I am asking all these questions as I want to learn!
But I will try and do all that tonight. May take me a while as I do not 100% follow you.

 

[gamorg02]

what isn't clear 100%? ask away man! or do u just gotta sit and look at the bike? i'm that way a lot

 

[one2dmax]

There are normally 2 sounds associated with first turning the key on.

One sound which will occur every time is the v-boost cycle. It is a whirring/girr type of sound that is two parts. It cycles out with a slight pause and then cycles back in. If you look into the "V" of the engine you can see the valve butterflies and watch the system actuate. If this is only working occassionally it will cause a variety of problems.

The second sound will/can be the fuel pump. It makes more of a clicking noise as it refills the fuel bowls. If you ride the bike every day the pump may only click once or twice. If you let it sit the fuel evaporates more and thus needs more clicks to fill the carbs back up. If you cycle the key a few times the clicks will get less and less and then won't cycle anymore as you turn the key off and on again. The pump only runs for 5 seconds or so and if the blows are very empty it won't be filled with the initial turn of the key.

Sean

 

[mgrowc1]

There are normally 2 sounds associated with first turning the key on.

One sound which will occur every time is the v-boost cycle. It is a whirring/girr type of sound that is two parts. It cycles out with a slight pause and then cycles back in. If you look into the "V" of the engine you can see the valve butterflies and watch the system actuate. If this is only working occassionally it will cause a variety of problems.

The second sound will/can be the fuel pump. It makes more of a clicking noise as it refills the fuel bowls. If you ride the bike every day the pump may only click once or twice. If you let it sit the fuel evaporates more and thus needs more clicks to fill the carbs back up. If you cycle the key a few times the clicks will get less and less and then won't cycle anymore as you turn the key off and on again. The pump only runs for 5 seconds or so and if the blows are very empty it won't be filled with the initial turn of the key.

Sean

well that makes a little sense then mate! I always hear the very quiet swirling noise like you say. The bike is going to be ridden daily from now not before. Like you said I only hear that noise sometimes. Seems to be random as of now. Did it this morning. Still no difference in the ride so thanks for clarifying. You guys are a world of knowledge. and I really appreciate it. Hope to ride and learn from some of you one day.

 

[dannymax]

I'd really check your idle circuit and then make sure it's sync'd.

+1
Good chance these are your problems. Seafoam works good on the idle circuits, also BG44K. If you use Seafoam, put a few ounces in each tankful of gas, it may clear up. Or, put 1/3 of a can of BG in 3 successive tank fulls.

Syncronization is the process that insures all 4 throttle plates are reacting at exactly the same time. Verify sync...your carbs may not be working together.

 

[gamorg02]

yea, synching is really easy too. maybe one is way off causing th ehigh idle? not sure..

you can get a carb synch tool very cheap (under $25 shipped from the UK) or a nice one for about $100. its very easy to do. all you need is a phillips and regular screwdriver