Cranks properly on second or third try only

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First I've heard of this. Still bullet proof. First gen had oil o ring issues, second gear issues, shift segments falling apart, death wobble, lol. Just to name a few.... Hell I snapped a shaft on my 97 doing a rolling burnout in second gear. Second gen has been around since 2009 and this is the first case of a possible decomp pin being stuck, and we still don't know for sure.... I've seen batteries with bad cells do some weird ****, so let's not rule that out. Need to do a load test and watch recovery rate.

i only said that because the first gens i
Was it big/expensive job to do?

it’s not going to be the starter motor bud. Starters go out they go out, they get weak they stay weak, just like the battery, I dont think the second crank the battery found it deep in its soul to find more juice. Second crank proves this process of elimination, the second start was immediately after the first.
 
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First I've heard of this. Still bullet proof. First gen had oil o ring issues, second gear issues, shift segments falling apart, death wobble, lol. Just to name a few.... Hell I snapped a shaft on my 97 doing a rolling burnout in second gear. Second gen has been around since 2009 and this is the first case of a possible decomp pin being stuck, and we still don't know for sure.... I've seen batteries with bad cells do some weird ****, so let's not rule that out. Need to do a load test and watch recovery rate.
I agree with you I have experienced every one of those on my 85 including the shaft being snapped. And second gear Etc. But the second Generations are for the most part bulletproof but I did have starter issues mine would not turn over correctly on the first shot until the second or third time and that is spun fast. So I had to replace the starter but that was after 60,000 miles on it. Once I replace a starter it starts first shot within 3 Seconds
 
i only said that because the first gens i


it’s not going to be the starter motor bud. Starters go out they go out, they get weak they stay weak, just like the battery, I dont think the second crank the battery found it deep in its soul to find more juice. Second crank proves this process of elimination, the second start was immediately after the first.
I'm not going to argue this point with you. All I know is my Vmax had to have a starter replaced not the starter clutch but the starter motor because it experienced the exact same thing. Almost as if the starter was froze or slow cranking and then it had to break free. So in short I replace a starter motor and I haven't had a problem since it start correctly within 3 seconds.
 
I'm not going to argue this point with you. All I know is my Vmax had to have a starter replaced not the starter clutch but the starter motor because it experienced the exact same thing. Almost as if the starter was froze or slow cranking and then it had to break free. So in short I replace a starter motor and I haven't had a problem since it start correctly within 3 seconds.
Oh no argument here, if it is in-fact the starter motor that would be an outlier. Hearing it on the video the engine sounds very different than the second time. Makes me think ‘straining’ like decomp is not activating and stuck in. ‍♂️
 
Hard to nail down until you start a process of elimination. Sure odd it cranked ****** then immediately was fine..good deal though.
 
I changed the battery and it seems to be OK now, it only has been couple of starts but with first try every time. Hope it lasts! Yuasa YTZ14S, nothing fancy but did the trick.
MAX,,I hope you installed the Battery Tender on the new battery!
 
Hi, Automation Engineer student here with electrical experience. Batteries like those in our 2nd Gen Vmax have cells, (Not sure how many) that store dyelectric juices or electrolytes. Over time this fluid will begin to evaporate or wear out and its ability to store an electrical charge depreciates. A battery can be woken up, after a period of rest as electrons will move in the cell. That is why it cranks easier the second time. Replace the battery, lithium is good but make sure you buy the correct trickle charger for it with auto shut off. Over charging a Li-Ion is how you blow them up.

Some of the 1st gen guys here might chime in saying Li-Ion is bad for your bike, but thats mostly due to the older charging systems on 1st gens. If they dont replace the mechanical reg/rec with a solid state version it will end up overcharging the Li-ion battery and blowing it up. A Li-Ion battery should be a solid upgrade for your 2nd gen and will save you a few pounds.
 
Hi, Automation Engineer student here ...

Hi, I'm electric engineer and thought something like this could be going on. Old battery turned out to be Yuasa TTZ as original is YTZ, these are basically same battery but YTZ can handle larger mounting angles. I don't know what angle it is with these bikes, but battery is at some angle and that might have had that TTZ cooked. Or then it was just old, I couldn't find manufacturing date of it..
But bike has been cranking normally ever since I changed the battery so it was it this time, I think. I skipped the lithium as it is sometimes cold up here in north, YTZ is AGM battery and that is good enough for me.

Good luck with the studies!
 
Nice. I went to a Li Iron (not lithium 'ion') back in March of 2015. I've been using this same battery (Deltran from Battery Tender) for 5 years now without any kind of glitches and I ride year round. Never charge it on a battery tender or anything. Just ride it and forget it.
The think weighs 1.9 lbs. The Odyssey weighs about 15 lbs, so there's 13 lbs saved.
That battery is so small, that they ship it with little foam blocks so you can build it up to fit the battery box.

Switched from the Odyssey PC680. That old Odyssey went into my Twin Turbo 300ZX and ran for years more. I think I got about 9 years total from that old Odyssey.


Vinnie
 

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Sounds like low voltage or a dragging starter motor. Lippy
 
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