Cycleone o-ring pop stopper

[ShawnD]

This kit came with the bike when I bought it. It has an orange o-ring, a flat rubber stopper (guessing at what you'd call it) and a metal ring. The ring is about the size of a quarter. I'm having difficulty figuring out how that ring will do anything to stop the o-ring from being blown out. Anybody use this kit?

 

[[email protected]]

I used that kit but back when I purchased it, there was no metal ring included.

The parts I received were a new o-ring.
A new rubber bumper for the bottom of the oil delivery pipe
And a plastic spacer.

I put the new o-ring in (actually used a Kawasaki oval ring from Sean as I also did the HD oiling upgrade)

I put the rubber bumper on.

I attached the plastic spacer to the rubber bumper. IIRC, I just used a dab of grease to hold it in place.

The plastic spacer is intended to keep positive pressure on the rubber bumper so it has no room to move which keep the oil delivery pipe from dropping out of the galley.

I'd guess the metal piece you are describing is a replacement for the plastic spacer.

Got a photo?

 

[ShawnD]

here ya go

 

[ShawnD]

Is there a recess in the oil pan that the rubber bumper fits into? Because I'm still not seeing how this ring accomplishes anything if it doesn't.

 

[dannymax]

When I put the popper stopper on my '99 I didn't get a plastic spacer or a metal ring.....:confused2:

I don't recall a little cup on the base cover either, actually that metal ring looks like it has to large a diameter to support the bumper.

 

[[email protected]]

After some reflection, I will recall my original post. My pop stopper kit came with a pan gasket, and a plastic spacer only. No bumper, no o-ring.

The OEM rubber bumper was completely removed. The COO "pop stopper" was nothing more than a machined plastic disc. It was installed on the bottom of the oil pipe in lieu of the rubber bumper. It didn't "snap" into place or anything. I had to put some grease on it to hold it there then get the oil pan into place. I actually dropped the pan just to double check that it stayed in position which, it did.

I have no idea what that washer is you have.

 

[Redbone]

I looked at the popstopper fix but eventually went with PCW's kit that Damon installed for me thankfully! It is a lot more money and involves a bit more work but it looks like it will be a forever fix.
You cans see it here: http://www.pcwracing.net/instructions/Pro Oiler Instructions.pdf

 

[ShawnD]

actually that metal ring looks like it has to large a diameter to support the bumper.

Okay, good, I'm not the only one thinking the same thing. Found the site that sells this kit but doesn't give any instruction or install shots. Well the pan gasket that came with is worth something :confused2: Thanks for all the replies

 

[dannymax]

After some reflection, I will recall my original post. My pop stopper kit came with a pan gasket, and a plastic spacer only. No bumper, no o-ring.

The OEM rubber bumper was completely removed. The COO "pop stopper" was nothing more than a machined plastic disc. It was installed on the bottom of the oil pipe in lieu of the rubber bumper. It didn't "snap" into place or anything. I had to put some grease on it to hold it there then get the oil pan into place. I actually dropped the pan just to double check that it stayed in position which, it did.

I have no idea what that washer is you have.

I kind of regretted it after getting into the meat of the install....removing the old pan gasket was a real bitch....and the whole thing was unnecessary anyway.

Watch the oil site window on start up, if the oil is pulled down quickly the o-ring is in place and all is good.

 

[sdt354]

Best bet is to use the Kawasaki Oval o-ring, a new rubber puck, and safety wire the tubing in place. Early engines are susceptible to the original o-ring bulging out. High cold engine revving is one cause. While in there I did the pump upgrade. Plenty of oil pressure now, even at idle, hot. Sean has all you need.
Steve-o

 

[ShawnD]

Bike has an oil pressure gage. Keeping an eye on that & getting the motor fully warmed up before getting on it hard will be the routine, it sounds like.

 

[davesax36]

Be aware that your pressure gauge might look scary low when warm.

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[ShawnD]

Be aware that your pressure gauge might look scary low when warm.

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

Yeah, noticed it. It's quite a bit higher when the motor is cold. But even when it's cold pressure increased with increased revs...figured if there was a problem it would have happened already.