Disk rotor bolts stuck

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We have milled the length of the bolts down on a few occassions and I guess should offer that each time. It would add some cost though since there is a good amount of setup time (doesn't take long for the mill work but a lot of time threading the bolts in and out of the fixture).

Sean
 
heat to solve disk rotor bolts being stuck

Anyone doing this please be-sure to REMOVE the valve stem core BEFORE ANY HEATING!

Failure to do this could result in personal injury or worse. I know, "hey, it's only a pencil-torch flame," but every year people are maimed or killed by someone heating-up a pressurized tire/wheel, either by welding or flame application to the wheel. We had one locally on a fire-rescue call awhile ago in my community, dead.


I can vouch for them being nicer than stock bolts and worth the money. I use blue locktite on install. Removing, I start with a pencil torch right on the head of the bolt to break it loose. Hand impact is the way to go.
 
be careful with hardware store bolts too as alot of times the allen size is even smaller making a bad problem worse.
 
When dealing with stuck rotor bolts, My never fail is my trusty, small vice-grips. Just clamp it on, give it a twist, and your golden, I've used both the needle-nose version as wel,l on stuck carb bolts and they worked well too. Then its a trip to the fasteners to replace them soft *** stock bolts with some quality ones.
 
I was able to find a machine shop in my area that was open AND was able to extract the broken bolt. $35 and an hour and a half and I was on my way.

Sean...you have an email regarding the SS/Chrome rotor bolts. I am in for a full set.....
I sell high tensile marine grade stainless allen heads M8-1.25 for 50 cents each. I know you wont be dealing with this the next time you have to replace your rotor but if your working on a friends V-max I recommend putting the wheel in an industrial oven and bringing it up to 400 F if you suspect it has been loctited by someone who shouldn't have access to loctite. Thats how I do them here for the last thirty eight years. It is a little bit of a pain in the butt to take the tire off but its a bigger pain in the butt to snap bolts in there. If you were closer I would tell you to drive the wheel to me and I'd have it back to you pretty quick but I'm happy to you got that squared away stay safe and good riding.
 
For all of you with this problem reading this tale of woe from 13 years ago, recommend you use Paul's hardware or source your own, but go a step further and drill the Allen heads for stainless safety wire. Skip the Loctite on steel bolts going into aluminum or magnesium and safety wire the fasteners instead. You can get a pair of aviation style safety wire pliers at Harbor Freight for ten bucks and 0.032" stainless wire on Amazon for around $12.

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How to Safety Wire



 
I do have the chrome low head bolts still in stock. They aren't as cheap as Pauls at $2.75 ea
 
I've been replacing the Allen's with std SS Hex bolts. The Stainless of the OEM bolts is so soft that a corroded bolt will round easily. So frustrating. A 15 min job turns into 3 hrs to get a single bolt out
 
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I've been replacing the Allen's with std SS Hex bolts. The Stainless of the OEM bolts is so soft that a corroded bolt will round easily. So frustrating. A 15 min job turns into 3 hrs to get a single bolt out
I'd like to see a picture of your replacement Bolt if you don't mind
 
I'll take a pic. I haven't had to take the rotors off. It has been other bolts all over the bike as I've been doing different service.
 
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So I just bought an Induction coil heat tool for a broken stud on a car project. That would be ideal for this issue. I have broken Allen wrenches with a pipe extension on these. Bondaus brand wrench.
 
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I can vouch for mine too! I actually have two of them. Don't think my rotors or carbs would have come apart without them. The quality of the bits that come with them is very important, and the rotational pressure applied while hitting them as well.
Having said that, I did almost round off a couple of rotor bolts, but they came out in the end. Good job I had spares. As others mentioned, when doing the loctite thing I also only put a small drop on each thread. BUT, there's always a lot of dried up loctite in the thread holes, because it's hard to clean those as they are not a standard thread size.
That depends how you see it: In my part of the world ISO Metric threads are common standard. And in this case the threads are 8 x 1,25 mm. These are the bolts I use for my disc rotors:
https://skruebissen.dk/bolte-rustfr.../14437-din_7380_buttonhead_a4-50_stk_pk_m8x251685296821531.png
 
The OEM Allen's look nice but they round so easy. And difficult to get any bite with a ViceGrip. N.East salty roads gets every fastener frozen. Used to ride 10-11 months a year.
 

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