dj stage one success

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mattmullins

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1000 feet above sea level 170 main jet needle 2nd from the top a/f 2 1/2 turns out floats 1.125" took scoops off air box one k&n filter Dale walker 4-1 hole shots, so after many hours of trying to make the stage one work the hole shots seem to do it, I don't mean it runs good it runs like I new it should this sucker is bad ass. I've ridden fast bikes before and this gives me the same feeling. Now I'm waiting for bike night to dyno it was at 106 HP stock got to have a lot higher numbers now. So stage one will work better have a lot of patients I tooks the carbs apart probably 20 or so times can't tell you how many hours. When I was trying to dial them bottom end in taking the scoop off the air box fixed that so if you have post stage 1 hope this helps
 
Stage one is usually not worth the money. It makes the bike run rich (which I would be very surprised if you aren't rich with your settings) and fuel economy goes to shit.

You nailed it when you said the holeshots did it. If that's the change you finally did that made the difference it wasn't the kit that made it run. It's the header.

Sean
 
This is for the people that already spent the money, not saying go buy one, the jets do work cause there was a difference with my supertrapps, when I raced my buddy's max I was clearly faster. And I was having lean issue that's fixed now this for reference only not persuasion ill let you know what the dyno says
 
Congratulations , you are the first I've heard ( with any credibility ) , to make stage 1 set up work well . :clapping:
 
Congratulations , you are the first I've heard ( with any credibility ) , to make stage 1 set up work well . :clapping:

Rare...but they are out there. My 86 had a stage 1 kit with a Sudco (Hindle) pipe. Top of the airbox removed, lid trimmed, and a K&N. Ran great, no flat spots and it made 118 Hp.
 
I'm not the first one, there's another Guy on here that got his to work that's why I kept trying
 
1000 feet above sea level 170 main jet needle 2nd from the top a/f 2 1/2 turns out floats 1.125" took scoops off air box one k&n filter Dale walker 4-1 hole shots, so after many hours of trying to make the stage one work the hole shots seem to do it, I don't mean it runs good it runs like I new it should this sucker is bad ass. I've ridden fast bikes before and this gives me the same feeling. Now I'm waiting for bike night to dyno it was at 106 HP stock got to have a lot higher numbers now. So stage one will work better have a lot of patients I tooks the carbs apart probably 20 or so times can't tell you how many hours. When I was trying to dial them bottom end in taking the scoop off the air box fixed that so if you have post stage 1 hope this helps

Good news!

Now pull those 170's out of there and install a set of 152.5 or 150 mikuni mains and see what happens:biglaugh:

Seriously, Stock jetting is already rich, going bigger on the mains usually makes it worse....The pipe is hiding that for you tho'

I'm not trying to one up you or show you wrong, honestly trying to help.....Lean it out and it will truly scream, I went all the way down to 147.5 mikunis on the mains at sea level before I stopped getting drag strip proven increases in performance out of stepping it leaner, then stepped it back up to 150's for safetys sake.....

Rusty
 
Put on the dyno yesterday it ran 113.73 hp af was 11-12. So I put 152,s back in get alittle backfire through the carbs a/f 3 turns out may have to turn it 3 !/1 turns
 
You probably need even smaller mains but you can get the a/f checked to be sure. 147.5 is what I would have normally recommended. Don't worry about getting the midrange a/f perfect as it is normal to have a big dip in the midrange.

Sean
 
Morley air box or stage 7 air filters will lean you out considerably and will allow you to use smaller main jets, perhaps lower your stage 1 needles, get better gas mileage, etc.
 
Ok put on 150mains ran like crap put back on 152.5 seams to like those the best goes through the rpm's like butter will dyno to sea results
 
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