Different needles might require larger mains, so if you select the correct main with 1 set of needles, and then switch to a different set, then the main may no longer be correct. On my bike, stock needles needed a 162.5, stage 1 needles needed a 160, and stage 7 needles needed a 155. That was all verified with a wideband, and shooting for a 13 to 1 air fuel ratio.
This is where I must disagree somewhat.
A proper main is selected for maximum power when "on the main" only, Meaning the slide is all the out and the needle is not doing ANY metering, allowing the main to flow its max rate. This is usually at 7500 and over with the throttle held wide open. No other settings are in play here except a proper float level.
Done this way because the mains job is to work completely on its own, so its gotta be right for that job, the rest of the settings are built around that, and in order on the following setting in order of throttle openings.
When "on the needle" its working with the main too, but since the main has to work on its own at higher loads, then the needle needs to be selected to work with the main, not vice versa.
If you change mains to make needle settings work then your compromising somewhere else.
You CAN end up with a setup that works fine but you'll be leaving something on the table somewhere.
Hate to sound like a know it all but this is basic CV carb gospel.
Check out factory pros tuning guide or the carb bible sticky on this forum.
Actually, he is correct! Our testing does show that the stage seven needs a much smaller main then the stock needles with our jet kit anyway.
I would guess that the stock needles being so blunt on the end is creating some amount of hindrance to the flow of the main.
Thanks guys. Learn something new everyday.
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