Driver footpeg relocation

[Miles Long]

Howdy folks-
I just finished reading the six pages of inquiries, complaints, suggestions, links, etc., of the 2007 thread by Quartermaster, regarding forward controls.
All very interesting, and sooo much that I could identify with, on a personal level.
First of all, I'm 5'7", and my legs are just barely long enough to touch the ground - 30" inseam.
Although I could flat-foot the bike with stock suspension (providing I was wearing boots), I thought a lowered bike would be more "friendly" at stops.
Consequently, this past winter, I lowered the front 1 1/2", and the rear by 1".
Straddling the bike, it now felt much more secure! I didn't test ride however, because of the four feet of snow still outside the garage.
Then I said to myself "Myself, it it feels good this way, how about getting even closer to the ground?"
I didn't want to reduce the ground clearance anymore, so I shaved as much foam off the seat as I could (about an inch) This is where I noticed the problems, following actually riding the bike.
With the lowered seat and stock pegs, my short legs are now bent too much at the knee, and higher up on the faux tank, making riding noticeably more uncomfortable.
I have crash bars with integrated foot rests up front. These have worked out very good for stretching out and de-cramping my legs, but I don't use them unless on the highway.
I'm now pleased with the seat height of the bike(27 1/2"), and don't want to fiddle with the seat again.
So the obvious answer is to lower the driver's pegs, and move them forward. I'm thinking about 1" lower, maybe 2" ahead.
Adapting the stock peg mounts, by cutting and welding, or fabricating new mounts will be relatively easy. It's the shifter and brake levers, which will have to be longer and angled differently, which may pose a few problems. The toe and foot rests could be cut off and extensions made, or both levers could be made from scratch.
Having the pegs farther forward would also have another benefit - less "banging of the shins" at stops, as mentioned in Quartermasters' thread.
Anyone fabbed up this mod??
If I'm cramped up, It must be hell for those with longer legs!

Cheers!unk:

 

[davesax36]

Left peg will also have to come out to clear the stator cover with the shifter. A simple bracket with a sport bike style mount would allow aftermarket adjustable rearsets to be used.

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[Hughen]

I'm interested in relocating mine also. I'm transitioning from an R6 so I prefer the forward cant position of riding. Have y'all heard of relocating the foot controls back, either with having brackets fabricated or being able to purchase a custom set somewhere? Thanks. :ummm:

 

[one2dmax]

There are a few brands of "rear sets" out there. I think I have one set in my sale section (look in the Morleys Muscle section on the site here).

 

[[email protected]]

Shins on the pegs? I put my feet down in front of the pegs. Pegs hit the back of my calf but, fold back so, no problems here.

My legs feel too long on the bike and I'm not that tall. 5'11". Id like more room. Just not sure if moving the controls forward is what id like to do.

 

[customizedcreationz]

I'm interested in relocating mine also. I'm transitioning from an R6 so I prefer the forward cant position of riding. Have y'all heard of relocating the foot controls back, either with having brackets fabricated or being able to purchase a custom set somewhere? Thanks. :ummm:

I was going to do this with mine, but I just used the passenger pegs all the time. But my wife would get on the bike and I quickly realized how crappy the ergonomics on the bike were. I never realized how much having the pegs behind you took stress off your butt and knees, until she got on the bike and I couldn't lean forward anymore.

Now with the ZX14 it has bar risers and everything seems to be in a good position for me, though the bike is a tad tall. I'll be curious to see how this bike treats me over long distances. Its a fairly straight up riding position in my feeling compared to something like your R6. I would say its between the sit back Vmax and the lean forward naked bike ergo's.

Either way I had plans drawn up to make a set of rear sets that would move the pegs up and back, I just never got to making them before I sold the bike.

Todd

 

[Wrinkled Wrider]

I moved the controls to forward with a Refined Cycles kit. kind of expensive at $300 but overall a quality kit. Did this so that I could actually ride for a while (tall and arthritic). I also needed a bar adjustment so a 3/4" riser got installed. This makes more of a difference than one would think. We're just about done but I'm adding my old gel seat with sheepskin and a Freeway Blaster as final touches. Nothing like making the catapult comfortable.

Stosh

 

[Redbone]

I moved the controls to forward with a Refined Cycles kit. kind of expensive at $300 but overall a quality kit. Did this so that I could actually ride for a while (tall and arthritic). I also needed a bar adjustment so a 3/4" riser got installed. This makes more of a difference than one would think. We're just about done but I'm adding my old gel seat with sheepskin and a Freeway Blaster as final touches. Nothing like making the catapult comfortable.

Stosh

http://refinedcycle.com/Forward-Controls_c6.htm?page=all
If it wasn't on Quarterhorse's thread I think it was Over Racing that had some mid controls that I saw a few years back.
Let me check...:rocket bike::rocket bike::rocket bike:...I found it!
http://www.cmsnl.com/over-racing-back-step-kits_model14837/step-4position_513410/
I think Rusty McNeil ordered some parts through thru CMS and it took an extraordinary amount of time to receive his parts.
Holy Smoly! Would you look at the price, no wait, on second thought you don't want to look at that price, especially when converted to US $'s!!!!!:bang head:

 

[Miles Long]

Got'er done, lads!
Relatively easy modification, only cost was a new spool of wire for the MIG.
A friend had previously given me spare levers and brackets, so that I can always go back to O.E.M., if this doesn't work out when I get the bike back on the road. But judging by the way the bike feels while still in the workshop, that ain't gonna happen!
Noticeably less cramping of the legs now. Shouldn't be anymore shin-banging when coaxing the bike backwards.
The increased throw required on the brake is noticeable, but I think after a few rides I'll be used to it. The bigger pad feels quite comfortable.
On the shifter side - BINGO, unexpected bonus! Neutral is now much easier to find! A result of less effort/less precision required for final indexing. Something a mechanical engineer could explain much better than I can.
The relocated pegs are now 55 mm more forward, 25 mm lower (2 1/8" x 1") The brake lever was extended the same amount, the shifter lever a tad more, about 60 mm.
Flat bar was used to extend the brackets, after they were cut. For the mild steel brake lever, an extension piece was welded in the center, then the entire lever was shrouded with a piece of pipe. The pad is held in place by machine screws, making it removable if desired.
The aluminum shifter lever was cut and extended using a piece of pipe, and fastened with steel rivets (no aluminum-capable welder available). It had to be re-shaped a bit to clear the stator cover.
Cheers!

 

[tothemax93]

Looks great Miles. job well doneunk:

 

[dannymax]

Very nice! I might question the "relatively easy" description tho......:clapping::clapping::clapping:

 

[Redbone]

As per usual you have done a very nice job of modifying Frankenmax! I bet a few Vmax owners, let alone any motorcyclist, would notice the change.Possibly they could perceive that something is different but would come up with a response "looks like factory work to me". I'm sure they would be marveling at the rest of your Vmax and pass right over the well done foot rest modifications!unk:

 

[one2dmax]

Indeed, nicely done.

 

[Miles Long]

Thanks for the kind words, guys.
As per usual, my mods are not too pretty, but tend to be practical. I'm hoping this one works out.
I just took the bike off the centerstand - I couldn't wait to try out "reverse gear".
Yippie! Lots of clearance now, my shins are already thanking me.
But putting the beast back on the c/stand has reminded me of my next mod - cutting the feet down an inch, or making them adjustable (this sounds to be more fun!)
As a lot of you folks know, shorter shocks makes the effort of raising the bike much harder, especially if it's loaded.
Adjustibility would give me the option of going back to OEM-length shocks.
Why couldn't a centerstand be made of aluminum???
I think I have enough scrap AL to do this. I'll post some pics when I'm done.
Cheers!

 

[Wrinkled Wrider]

As Mr. Burns would note: " EXXXCELLENT !"

 

[falling]

Here is what I did on the left side.


It's a hammerhead shift lever and WildHair footpegs. Total move is 4" forward. Tomorrow, I'll drop it 1" pretty much how the OP on this thread did it

The shifter is a Hamnerhead for a 2012 BMW R1200. The shifter pivot uses an M16 SS nut bored to accept 12mm ID flanged SS ball bearings. I made the top lever on the linkage 1/4" longer. This tightened up the snickety snick of the shifter.

I'll have the brake side done within the week.


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[falling]

Here's the brake side



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[one2dmax]

Man, I would have these drug off in a heartbeat in Eureka Springs. I already drag the OEM pegs on an occasion.

 

[falling]

Better clearance than stock. Shorter pegs, hugged in tighter.


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[one2dmax]

But lower then stock and the suspension compresses during hard cornering.