Dyna 3000

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Superbuick

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Hello, I am thinking of getting a Dyna 3000 Digital Performance Ignition for my 85 V-Max and was wandering if this ignition was worth the money and how difficult it is to install?
 
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Hello, I am thinking of getting a Dyna 3000 Digital Performance Ignition for my 85 V-Max and was wandering if this ignition was worth the money and how difficult it is to install?


I've heard of a lot of horror stories with them... Shawn Kloker loves his but hates it too as it isn't very reliable.

I like the fact that it's got a lot of variables you can change.
 
Was a mild pain in the ass to install... Have had zero problems out of it. Would like to play with the curves more but when I crank up the advance the starter bitches (I need to get the starter fixed) It's set on curve 3 which I believe is close to stock and it put down a 132hp run last year on the dyno. Not sure if there is any more HP in the other curves or not.

The rev limiter seems to work.. I have nerve damage in my left foot and have missed a ton of shifts while haulin... the motor is still in one piece


Your mileage may vary

Frank
 
I really like it, I haven't played with it a whole lot... need to get it on the dyno... Topeka???? It only took an hour or so to install it, and it really opens up a far amount of room as the Dyna3000 is about 1/2 the size of the stock module. For $230 I love it just for the rev limiter. It gives me a little more piece of mind while at the strip. Anything I can do to prolong splitting the cases is a good investment for me.

Jeff
 
I've been runnin' mine for 3 years, 20,000 miles now without any issues, the rev-limiter definitely works, and I have played around with the curves and can attest to the fact that they are doing "something" because when fully retarded it ran like crap and when fully advanced it pinged-detonated like crazy.......

Electrically install is a piece of cake,

Mechanically it's a bit of a pain in the ass, but if your good at puzzles you'll have no problem, it mounts on a plate in front of the airbox and below the instrument cluster, and that plate is a tight fit in and out and very finnicky about how it 's turned going in and out.


I run mine on the next to the most advance curve and runs great without any problems.....


I wouldn't spend the money one one unless forced to by a failed factory TCI, I don't think the performance difference is worth it.

The rev-limiter might be for some people tho', it was for me when I snapped my driveshaft on a full throttle 1-2 shift, that alone made it worth it.

Or the retard curves for nitrous use, which I think for the early Vmax ignitions is or use to be externally "switchable" I've heard. The late models are not, you can't "switch" the full retard mode in, you have to go in and set the dip switches, which negates the value of full retard for nitrous becuase who the hell wants to run full retard when not on nitrous:bang head: course I've never run nitrous so maybe retard isn't needed on milder or richer shots, I'd be leary tho'

I think the factory timing curve is already pretty good.....For the money i'd save it and put it toward some other mod until forced to replace it because of failure....
 
I purchased a dyna 3000, although I am in the process of a rebuild . I did not know the ignition box has a 2 stage setup , 1 for launch rev limiter and another for max rev limit . I like that , and also I choose the dyna beacuase of having a blower . looks relatively simple to install and set the dip swithces
 
I have mine set at curve 3, I ended up rejetting my carbs (not for the ignition but the pipes) and have had Zero problems with it. I have the rev limiter set at 9k and it's working great.

I scored it from eBay for about $230 new in box.

I mainly bought it for the retard modes used for Nitrous and Blower applications.
 
I took it for a ride, I can tell it advanced the timing as I had to back the idle down about 400R's. I took it for a ride, and am not sure what to think. I want to get it on a dyno and be sure I know what my butt is feeling.

The main reason I got this was for a future mod though, not just to get one. The rev limiter is nice however.
 
I have a quetion, I just got my 3000 back and the bike turns over even slow than it did before, has any one had this problem. The stock ign turned over slow but always started, this doesnt always start and wears the battery dead, I still think it has to do with the 85 starter, but wanted some more input, I have the ground fix, and new rec, and stator, need to crimp fix it but, want some input first. Thanks Roy
 
Does anyone know if during having a blower should I run in full retard mode ?if not which setting would be best ? Any info is appreciated.
Thx ,Jason
 
I have a quetion, I just got my 3000 back and the bike turns over even slow than it did before, has any one had this problem. The stock ign turned over slow but always started, this doesnt always start and wears the battery dead, I still think it has to do with the 85 starter, but wanted some more input, I have the ground fix, and new rec, and stator, need to crimp fix it but, want some input first. Thanks Roy

I believe there is a thread here about "cleaning out" your starter. The 2 pole starter that you have is weak to begin with, but as crap builds up in it, it gets work. Your brushes may be shot on it too. I'll see if I can find the thread and post a link.
 
Does anyone know if during having a blower should I run in full retard mode ?if not which setting would be best ? Any info is appreciated.
Thx ,Jason

Thats all depending on your fuel used. On my last N2O/Turbo bike it was a matter of matching the curve with when detonation kicked in. I was running alcohol and the timing was like -5 to -6, If I remember what the setup was on that thing (It's been a few years :biglaugh:). I was pulling about 15-20lbs of boost and using a 100hp shot of N2O

In nitrous apps the rule of thumb is about -1 to -1.5 of retarded timing per 50hp shot.

I don't see a problem with running either of the 2 blower/nitrous modes for your supercharger, just up your octaine a little.
 
Look at thier curve sheet and find out how many degrees retard your getting,

On the Supercharged cars I've messed with a general guidline was about .75-1.00 degrees retard per PSI of boost, and this is IF the AF is right......this is fairly conservative......some might tell you less, but your engine's expensive and I like conservative....

The problem that pisses me off about the Dyna is that it isn't externally switchable via another wire to put it in retard......Who wants to drive around in full retard when not on boost?


There are universal piggyback ignition modules that will intercept the coil signals and retard the timing referenced to a boost signal and you can tune them to retard per psi boost however you want, but I don't know what would work on the max sinces it's got this screwed up "waste spark" system.....

If you do some reseacrh on the "sport compact" end of the market you'll find something that might work....The electronics that segment of the performance industry is running are truly incredible....
 
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Look at thier curve sheet and find out how many degrees retard your getting,

On the Supercharged cars I've messed with a general guidline was about .75-1.00 degrees retard per PSI of boost, and this is IF the AF is right......this is fairly conservative......some might tell you less, but your engine's expensive and I like conservative....

The problem that pisses me off about the Dyna is that it isn't externally switchable via another wire to put it in retard......Who wants to drive around in full retard when not on boost?


There are universal piggyback ignition modules that will intercept the coil signals and retard the timing referenced to a boost signal and you can tune them to retard per psi boost however you want, but I don't know what would work on the max sinces it's got this screwed up "waste spark" system.....

If you do some reseacrh on the "sport compact" end of the market you'll find something that might work....The electronics that segment of the performance industry is running are truly incredible....
Thanks rusty and kj for the input
 
I thought that when the white wire was grounded it put the dyna into full retard mode . Couldn't I put a switch to flip to ground when i wanted the full retard mode?
 
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I thought that when the white wire was grounded it put the dyna into full retard mode . Couldn't I put a switch to flip to ground when i wanted the full retard mode?

The early model Dyna does have that along with a 2 stage rev-limiter.

The 1990 and up Dyna has neithe, although I was undee the impression it did when I bought it but that was my fault for not doing my research.....
 
pic of the 3000 installed . alot smaller :biglaugh:
 

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