dynatek 3000 and t boost

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gt4uk

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Hi all new to vmax's I got one that was in a bad way and now with a lot of work she lives :eusa_dance: . What I would like to know is can I fit t boost with a dynatek 3000 and what the best fix for speed wobble . Thanks all :punk:
 
For the woodle check ur steering, wheel bearing and bad front tire. It worked for me few years ago when i startes to encounter it.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
T-boost oughta work on any of them I think.

Dyna 3000, DynaTek I think does not support the early type ignitions anymore, only the later ones. I don't remember the year model Yamaha changed the number of pickup coils, someone else can chime in on that one.

General consensus is dyna 3000 is an ok unit but mostly (or only) because of the value of the rev limiter setting which definitely works. The various curve settings have yet to be proven in the lab.

I have one on my 99, and have set the curves to different settings and it does change the ignition timing cause it will be soggy in retard curves. (There are three, two for "hot/built/high compression motor" retard, and one for extreme blower or nitrous applications) and when I have set it in the advanced curves it does seem to feel different, I'm just not sure how much tho'

All in all I'm glad I have it if only for the rev limiter, have had it for about 5 years with no issues.
 
T-Boost has nothing to do with the ICU. It connects to the VBoost controller and picks up signal on coil #2 on early models like yours if i recall correctly... On later models its on coil #1...
 
Bang for buck, save your money is what I would say and fix it when it breaks. The items you are talking about are more status items then actual true go fast items. When your trying for that last 1/2 hp, then spending larger amounts of money to acomplish this may be required.

But for a everyday rider, I wouldn't concern myself with them. Just make sure its running good with your stock components.

Todd
 
find the relay that controls the the vboost and unplug it . when you turn the key on you here it cycle when it opens up all the way shut the key off then unplug the relay. try it that way and see if you really like what it does and then decide if you want to spend the money
 
You ll lose more power unplugging it or getting a boost system that opens the valve earlier then stock.

Proven dyno fact that the stock opening is 99% the best way to go in both performance and economy.

Todd
 
Hi all new to vmax's I got one that was in a bad way and now with a lot of work she lives :eusa_dance: . What I would like to know is can I fit t boost with a dynatek 3000 and what the best fix for speed wobble . Thanks all :punk:

With your year of bike, Dyna dosn't make an ignition for it anymore. But you can score a programmable one. Give this thread a read.

The stock setup with the Vboost kicking in at 6k rpm is about as good as your going to get. But, you can tune for the earlier opening and make a small gain. Tuning for an earlier opening is not that much different than tuning a stage 7 kit that has the Vboost constantly open. Otherwise all the earlier opening is going to do for you is give the sensation that something is happening, when its really not. Grabbing a fist full of throttle on my bike, I can barely feel the Vboost kick in at 6k. with a nitrous hit, I can't feel it at all. I'll drive right through it. T-boost is/was fun to play with at first, but now all I do with it now is just shut off the Vboost when I'm touring or rain riding.

As for the wobble, it can come from loose headstock, worn bearings, worn front tire to just name a few.
 
Bang for buck, save your money is what I would say and fix it when it breaks. The items you are talking about are more status items then actual true go fast items.

I wouldn't really call the D3000 a status symbol. The dyna is made to work as a complete system. The D3000 when mated with the dyna coils has shown, not only better spark, but more HP on the dyno as well.

With the stocker coils, it's only a slight improvement on the spark. Of course the rev limiter and timing retard modes for nitrous and supercharging is always a plus :biglaugh:
 
Hi all thanks for the help. The bike has a d3000 on it when I got it as wll as a dynojet 7 . I want the t boost so I can turn for the v boost for a bit better mpg
 
If your bike has a stage 7 jet kit, it probably doesnt have the v-boost still functional- from what I've seen here, most stage 7 kits eliminate the v-boost altogether.....
 
I got 41mpg with the v-boost unpluged and the dyna box set on curve 3 my piolet jet was 42.5 and now the piolet is 40 and my box is on curve 1 and the v-boost is pluged in and i get 36mpg. :confused2: I will be doing some testing on the different curve's at the track. I did some testing on a dyno at thunder and v-boost unpluged and timing curve set on 3 give's the most tork.
 
It may give the most PEAK #, but the average mean curve will be below that of a plugged in vboost I bet.

Average power across the board will give more seat of the pants feeling then 3 #'s on the dyno at peak.

Todd
 
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