easier way to get into N

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gamorg02

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
12,338
Reaction score
14
Location
cny
so after the DD upgrade finding neutral has been kind of a bitch. even the 'throttle blip' didn't help too much, however i did find trying to find neutral before a stop is easy as ever. However obviously there are times that doesn't make sense... so one way i've found to get into neutral from a stop is:

1. come to a stop a foot or two short of where you usually would
2. make like you are going to start going again but only move about 2-3"
3. as you start moving pull in the clutch
4. pop it into neutral

this works easily for me every time.
 
ya i hear ya but also should be no issue finding N, once and a while it happens and just need to move a bit forward but think a clutch fluid chg or re-bleed might help. after fixing the shift seg and chg the master on v2 that has the DD mod its like driving a new bike, shifts smooth and finds N real easy, the way it should be.
 
or the CR way which always works, when comming to the stop go from second to N, thats a nice smooth way also
 
ro -> i know there should be 'no issue' but i just don't have the time or energy to troubleshoot why its happening. from day 1 my bike hasn't been that easy to find neutral. the 2nd -> N has always been tough for me to feel for whatever reason.
 
so after the DD upgrade finding neutral has been kind of a bitch. even the 'throttle blip' didn't help too much, however i did find trying to find neutral before a stop is easy as ever. However obviously there are times that doesn't make sense... so one way i've found to get into neutral from a stop is:

1. come to a stop a foot or two short of where you usually would
2. make like you are going to start going again but only move about 2-3"
3. as you start moving pull in the clutch
4. pop it into neutral

this works easily for me every time.

Why did you do the DD mod? was it worth it and how much did it cost? Mine is stock and i have trouble once in awhile finding N also. I start engaging clutch pulling away and just click it up in N. Doesn't happen all the time but when it does that method works all the time for me.
 
Why did you do the DD mod? was it worth it and how much did it cost? Mine is stock and i have trouble once in awhile finding N also. I start engaging clutch pulling away and just click it up in N. Doesn't happen all the time but when it does that method works all the time for me.

my plates were starting to slip so figured why not while i was in there. only noticed the slipping in the november/december riding in 4th or 5th on the highway, so nothing major.

i have an FJR master so it makes the pull at least 50% easier. would I do it again? hell yea!

if i had a stock master i'd do the PCW upgrade as i think the DD would get annoying on my hand and the pcw would give just a bit more holding power.

i could give you a hand, and barring any annoying oil leaks we could probably get it done in a couple hours, and with it its easier to do an oil change.
 
Why did you do the DD mod? was it worth it and how much did it cost? Mine is stock and i have trouble once in awhile finding N also. I start engaging clutch pulling away and just click it up in N. Doesn't happen all the time but when it does that method works all the time for me.

Folks typically perform the DD, the PCW HD Spring, or the Barnett spring conversion to address a slipping clutch. I don't think it's done in order to simplify the hunt for N. Depending on which avenue you decide, it could cost somewhere between $50-$150 when all is said and done.
 
my plates were starting to slip so figured why not while i was in there. only noticed the slipping in the november/december riding in 4th or 5th on the highway, so nothing major.

i have an FJR master so it makes the pull at least 50% easier. would I do it again? hell yea!

if i had a stock master i'd do the PCW upgrade as i think the DD would get annoying on my hand and the pcw would give just a bit more holding power.

i could give you a hand, and barring any annoying oil leaks we could probably get it done in a couple hours, and with it its easier to do an oil change.

Cool we will talk about it next week. It would be a winter project :punk:
Also going to upgrade my suspension to progressive shocks and springs. Hope I can find them on sale like Steve O did...:eusa_dance:
 
...i have an FJR master so it makes the pull at least 50% easier. would I do it again? hell yea!

if i had a stock master i'd do the PCW upgrade as i think the DD would get annoying on my hand and the pcw would give just a bit more holding power

so garrett, based on your personal experience, would you say do a PCW upgrade if staying with stock master, and if doing DD upgrade consider upgrading master? of course, a lot of the guys are running stock master with DD and loving it; but all things being the same, are you of the opinion that the pulling effort is almost the same between stock-master/PCW and upgraded-master/DD?
 
Folks typically perform the DD, the PCW HD Spring, or the Barnett spring conversion to address a slipping clutch. I don't think it's done in order to simplify the hunt for N. Depending on which avenue you decide, it could cost somewhere between $50-$150 when all is said and done.

i forgot to mention prices, yea thats about right. pcw's kit i believe is $75 and includes everything even a gasket

sometimes u can find someone who did a pcw and doesn' thave a stock spring so you can buy theirs off them cheap. then you really just need a gasket, altho i'd advise the full disc replacement:

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Cool we will talk about it next week. It would be a winter project :punk:
Also going to upgrade my suspension to progressive shocks and springs. Hope I can find them on sale like Steve O did...:eusa_dance:

definitely. you can take mine for a spin and get a feel for the hold, although not the master pressure unless you did the same mod.

yea that was an epic deal a few years back. i got 2 shocks and 3 set sof springs for free. haha

i would call up progressive and ask if they are planning on doing free fork spring sales anytime soon. it was like october of that year so it may be coming up.
 
so garrett, based on your personal experience, would you say do a PCW upgrade if staying with stock master, and if doing DD upgrade consider upgrading master?

in my opninion yes

of course, a lot of the guys are running stock master with DD and loving it; but all things being the same, are you of the opinion that the pulling effort is almost the same between stock-master/PCW and upgraded-master/DD?

i completely agree. and i think i'd be fine if i lived somewhere less populated where i wouldn't have to worry about sitting in 2mph traffic for 20 minutes at any time, that stock master/dd combo i know would tire my wrist/forearm out, although i never notice the extra force needed to pull when shifting and riding normally.

i honestly can't tell you about the stock/pcw vs fjr/dd as i've never felt a stock/pcw pull but guys tend to say its about 50% more, roughtly.

i'd say mine feels about that, but its so subjective its hard to tell.
 
ya i figured it's hard to describe and you just have to have a feel for yourself. thanks for the info. i ask b/c i'm planning on taking a look at the clutch sometime w/in the next few months and am torn between the DD and PCW.
 
ya i figured it's hard to describe and you just have to have a feel for yourself. thanks for the info. i ask b/c i'm planning on taking a look at the clutch sometime w/in the next few months and am torn between the DD and PCW.

i don't think most of us really need full double the holding power. plus i think the pcw is cheaper b/c then you can sell your spring and offset some of the cost.

if i could do it all over again i might even consider the pcw with the fjr master, but its fine for now.

could full on monkey it and do the zx11 master upgrades or fjr master upgrades all around!

when upgrading the clutch, i'd invest in having a spare driveshaft around. its now the 'weakest' link, and if you don't like downtime it'd be good to have one. i got one for $20 off CL.
 
Folks typically perform the DD, the PCW HD Spring, or the Barnett spring conversion to address a slipping clutch. I don't think it's done in order to simplify the hunt for N. Depending on which avenue you decide, it could cost somewhere between $50-$150 when all is said and done.

Thanks Ninja :clapping:
 
when upgrading the clutch, i'd invest in having a spare driveshaft around. its now the 'weakest' link, and if you don't like downtime it'd be good to have one. i got one for $20 off CL.

thanks for the reminder :clapping:, i remember reading something like that in another thread
 
so after the DD upgrade finding neutral has been kind of a bitch. even the 'throttle blip' didn't help too much, however i did find trying to find neutral before a stop is easy as ever. However obviously there are times that doesn't make sense... so one way i've found to get into neutral from a stop is:

1. come to a stop a foot or two short of where you usually would
2. make like you are going to start going again but only move about 2-3"
3. as you start moving pull in the clutch
4. pop it into neutral

this works easily for me every time.

You want to be real careful with this method Garrett....it would be very easy for one of those pushy city fucks behind you to interpret that as a start on your part....never mind that there is a red light or stopped traffic in front of you....they are programmed to GO!!

You could easily become a hood ornament! :bang head:
 
You want to be real careful with this method Garrett....it would be very easy for one of those pushy city fucks behind you to interpret that as a start on your part....never mind that there is a red light or stopped traffic in front of you....they are programmed to GO!!

You could easily become a hood ornament! :bang head:

ah good point my man. i have gotten it down where i only move probably a 1/2", but thats a great point!
 
When my clutch started slipping I got the kit from PCW, think it was around $150 for the HD spring and all new friction plates(including another full size to replace the half plate) and a new cover gasket. Installed it in probably 45 min.

With the stock master (and SS line), the clutch pull is a tad tougher, but it's a very small increase. I only notice it in stop-n-go traffic, the rest of the time the difference is negligible.

I notice N gets tough to find as the oil "wears". It's what I use to know when to change oil....when N gets finicky, which is usually at 7 or 8k miles, I change the oil and it always gets easier.
 
Back
Top