Easy way to clean front rotors

[TB99Max]

So my front brakes have been catching and I'm finally going to remove them and do it right! So what's the best way to clean the floating rotor bolts? (Or whatever they are called). Also, I want to replace the Allen bolts that hold the rotor on. Is stainless the way to go??
Thanks guys!

 

[Traumahawk]

Check out this thread.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=17926&highlight=rotor+button

and check out this video. It should help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsNRaClpDXA

 

[Traumahawk]

Oh, they are also called rotor buttons.

 

[TB99Max]

Thanks! The video link didn't work but I looked at the thread. Going to get brake cleen and the graphite lube. While I have the wheel off I'm going to plasti-dip it and the front forks black. I would like to powder coat them but can't spend the money right now. I'll post the results.
Besides buying new rotors anyone have advice on how to make them new looking again

 

[[email protected]]

Spray brake clean in the buttons. Use a rubber mallet to tap the edge of the rotor lightly, not the flat braking surface.

Use compressed air to dry them out.

Use spray graphite lube on the buttons. Not excessively!

Take a ride with a rag and brake clean. Check the rotors to make sure lube doesn't leach out onto the rotor braking surface. If it does, clean up asap.

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[maxrom]

Hi hi
Sometimes we drop the essential
I already cleaned these button, took brake cleaner and lots of air pressure clean out without satisfy result
:bang head::bang head: The bolt and nut to make it turn :bang head::bang head:

Those button will work freely this summer for sure :eusa_dance:

Good tread

 

[TB99Max]

Thanks again guys. I'll post an update

 

[MaxMidnight]

Before you start attacking the buttons you need to establish which type of disc you have.

There are two types, semi floating and fully floating.

Both look the same and are made up of the same basic components i) an aluminium carrier that bolts to the wheel, ii) an outer steel disc upon which the pads act and iii) buttons which connect the two together.
In both types the buttons allow for radial expansion of the discs as they heat up during use and prevent the disc from warping.

The buttons on the fully floatingtype also allow the discs some sideways movement.

The other more commonly found, which includes the Max, are the semi floating variety.
As the buttons hold the disc firmly and do not allow side to side movement I would not expect you to be able to turn them. If you can then the disc, or at the very least the offending button, needs replacing.
Hitting the buttons or trying to get them to move is a BAD idea.

Have a read of this
Also note that the video posted above relates to fully floating discs and therefore not relevant to the Max items.

Not sure what you mean by 'catching' so perhaps you could elaborate on this?

 

[TB99Max]

When I apply the front brake a little bit it feels like it grabs and let's go, if that makes sense. As for the type of rotor, my max is a 99 and I believe it's stock. I can post a picture of it if that will help. So of the buttons are loose and move freely and some are not.

 

[Traumahawk]

So, going back to basics, how were the pads bedded or broken in after you changed them?

Here is what Galfer recommends, Brake pads should be bedded in to clean rotors (see rotor maintenance). Start with slow stops ranging from 10-15 mph and increasing in blocks of 10 mph until about 40-50 mph. Repeat this step 2-3 times and resume casual riding. Bedding in brake pads helps prevent glazing and helps to mate the pads to the rotor surface.

Here is what EBC recommends, Once your pads are 90% surface area bedded after the 300-400 miles, on a safe road, use the brakes 10 times in succession stopping your motorcycle from 60mph to 20mph to get the brakes deliberately hot. This is particularly important with the organic versions (Kevlar® types, carbon based pad types and semi-metallic pad types). After this process, the pads should settle down and normal riding and brake performance can be safely achieved.

Me personally, I do light stops at progressively higher and higher speeds, until they get lightly seated, and really dont worry about them after that.

Hope this helps.

 

[TB99Max]

I haven't replaced the pads since I've had the bike (9 months). I actually bought front and rear pads and only the rear needed to be replaced. So on semi-floating discs, should the rotor buttons still be able to move? Because some of them move freely and some don't.

 

[Traumahawk]

This is what Ive found on semi floating rotors. A semi-floating brake rotor is two separate parts held together with a number of round "buttons". The two parts appear to be solidly connected, although sometimes you can move one a tiny bit relative to the other. The biggest advantage over a solid rotor is that under heavy braking when things heat up the braking surface can expand evenly while the part bolted to the wheel remains cool, so you're less likely to get any warping

So, some of the buttons might move a tiny bit, but others might not.

So you changed the rotors, but still left the same pads in because they were good? EDIT** Just wishing to verify, there are several threads going around , and just wanting to get the right facts about this one.

 

[liptoss]

Yeah, that is what I was going to mention was that I too had thought the Vmax model years with the buttons were floating, but in fact aren't full floaters.

 

[Specs95t]

I have a 2001 with stock rotors. Last fall, I cleaned the buttons and ensured that they could spin. The buttons ought to be relatively free. By that, i mean that when you cinch a bolt and nut on and give it a tug, the button should spin.

A little brake clean gets the gunk out and a few good turns frees up the button.


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[TB99Max]

Mine must be really bad! I've done brake cleaner 4 or so times and soaked them in a non-acidic rust remover and no change! On one of them only two or three are lose, on the other four or five are lose. Can the be easily replaced?