Electrical gremlins in the 1260!

[dannymax]

I personally like the name Alowishus. unk:

I was always curious what Alo was actually wishing for......:confused2:

The '96 regulator was the newer finned model so I bolted it up....the wiring was the same on both bikes except for the black wire on the newer R/R, which I ran directly to the battery....is that acceptable?

Everything is working fine, gauges, fuel pump, neutral light, tach, etc. but the output voltage seems a little odd.

got 13.8 - 13.9 at idle
got 12.9 - 13.0 on the road

If I rev it while idling it will drop from 13.8 down to 13.4....shouldn't it go up with rpm's?

Oh, after driving for 15 - 20 miles I shut it off and it only will start 2 or 3 times, then there isn't enough power left to start it again.

 

[poppop]

Danny find ra warrior's thread,It will help i believe.I did exactly what he did on his.If your r/r is ok it may be the stator.My voltage climbs when enging speed increased.Hate it's still screwing with you.

 

[poppop]

http://imageevent.com/jkvmax/regulatorrectifier this is as close as i could come,Mabye ?Your better on here than me im sure you will get it

 

[Fire-medic]

All three stator resistance readings should be pretty-close to one-another (0.42 ohms +/- 15%; measure between each pair of the three white stator wires in combination), if one is way-off from the other two, you probably just found your problem. And, the stator plug is a known source of problems, many guys solder the wires and eliminate the three stator wires plug, which will help. I found one of mine was corroded at the connector, I had to remove the wire from the plug to see it well.

 

[dannymax]

Danny find ra warrior's thread,It will help i believe.I did exactly what he did on his.If your r/r is ok it may be the stator.My voltage climbs when enging speed increased.Hate it's still screwing with you.

http://imageevent.com/jkvmax/regulatorrectifier this is as close as i could come,Mabye ?Your better on here than me im sure you will get it

I found RAWarriors post Terry and have it copied for reference in the shop this morning.

The link you posted looks like good info also....thanks.

Mark-o also sent me the link to the troubleshooting guide from Electrosport Ind. which is copied and ready for the shop....just waiting for the temps to climb at least into the high 30's or god forbid....maybe even 40!! :bang head:

All three stator resistance readings should be pretty-close to one-another (0.42 ohms +/- 15%; measure between each pair of the three white stator wires in combination), if one is way-off from the other two, you probably just found your problem. And, the stator plug is a known source of problems, many guys solder the wires and eliminate the three stator wires plug, which will help. I found one of mine was corroded at the connector, I had to remove the wire from the plug to see it well.

Thanks Philip, going to try that today. :worthy:

 

[poppop]

All three stator resistance readings should be pretty-close to one-another (0.42 ohms +/- 15%; measure between each pair of the three white stator wires in combination), if one is way-off from the other two, you probably just found your problem. And, the stator plug is a known source of problems, many guys solder the wires and eliminate the three stator wires plug, which will help. I found one of mine was corroded at the connector, I had to remove the wire from the plug to see it well.Thanks fire medic.Now on where to set the volt meter to get these readings?

 

[dannymax]

I got 24.2 on the 200 ohms setting and each climbed to 70 at around 5000rpm.

 

[[email protected]]

I got 24.2 on the 200 ohms setting and each climbed to 70 at around 5000rpm.

You mean Volts?

 

[dannymax]

Stator 3-wire test results ohm setting on 200

All three read 1.1

Change to ACV 200 setting

#1 - #2 reading 22.5 - 23.0.......&.........80 @ 4K rpm
#1 - #3 reading 23.6 - 34.0.......&.........81 @ 4K rpm
#2 - #3 reading 23.8 - 24.2.......&.........81 @ 4K rpm

Think it looks like the stator is ok....yes?

The battery was charged for a few hours yesterday and was at 12.55V at bedtime.

This morning it was down to 12.44V....is this a significant enough change to chuck the battery, or does it put it in the marginal range?

No idea how old it is.

 

[dannymax]

You mean Volts?

Yes, sorry, the meter was on ACV 200.

 

[Miles Long]

I got 24.2 on the 200 ohms setting and each climbed to 70 at around 5000rpm.

Now measure A.C. voltage. Should be quite close between legs (any combination) and 50+ volts as rpm's increase.
Cheers!

 

[[email protected]]

Sounds like the stator is good.

The battery volts should be higher. Fully charged is 12.6V. That is AFTER it has time to sit and bleed off the surface charge.

 

[95spfldmax]

Now measure A.C. voltage. Should be quite close between legs (any combination) and 50+ volts as rpm's increase.
Cheers!

Danny, obviously don't let any of the leads short to each or ground while your doing this.

 

[dannymax]

I got it!!

The stator was putting out like it should but it didn't appear to be getting to the battery, or only part of the time at best so after installing the newer style RR off my '96 I cut out the + & - connectors, soldered in some jumpers at least 3 times larger than the oem wires and went directly to the battery with them.....RAWarrior said this would eliminate the dreaded "crimp connection" which seemed like a good idea to me.

Started it up, idle voltage shot up to 14.5 and any rpm increase it drops to 14.3 and stays there, no matter what the speed or rpm's are.

The battery may be crowding 'marginal' which is ok, I want an Odyssey anyhow....I'll check it tomorrow morning and if it's much under 12.6 it's outta here!

Thanks for all the help guys, 'preciate it.......:worthy:


OH, and she fires up with barely the touch of the starter button.....5 or 6 times in a row!!

 

[95spfldmax]

Excellent.......

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

So much for me buying it cheap, eh danny?:biglaugh: Glad to hear you got it sorted:clapping:

 

[Miles Long]

I got it!!

The stator was putting out like it should but it didn't appear to be getting to the battery, or only part of the time at best so after installing the newer style RR off my '96 I cut out the + & - connectors, soldered in some jumpers at least 3 times larger than the oem wires and went directly to the battery with them.....RAWarrior said this would eliminate the dreaded "crimp connection" which seemed like a good idea to me.

Started it up, idle voltage shot up to 14.5 and any rpm increase it drops to 14.3 and stays there, no matter what the speed or rpm's are.

The battery may be crowding 'marginal' which is ok, I want an Odyssey anyhow....I'll check it tomorrow morning and if it's much under 12.6 it's outta here!

Thanks for all the help guys, 'preciate it.......:worthy:


OH, and she fires up with barely the touch of the starter button.....5 or 6 times in a row!!

Great news Dan!
Did you put an in-line fuse in the new positive wire?

 

[alorio1]

Not only are you a carb Guru, now you are an electrical Guru:clapping::clapping:

 

[veebooster]

Frustrating but great when it's solved.:clapping::clapping:

Dale

 

[Redbone]

That's some most excellent news BD!

Great news Dan!
Did you put an in-line fuse in the new positive wire?

Did you say inline fuse? Look at these: http://www.posi-lock.com/posi-fuse.cfm