Exhaust wraps

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 13, 2006
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
I just got a 1986 v-max on Fri and even though the thing runs great, it's a bit of a scrub! It need some TLC. It has a set of supertraps (which sounds like a stock car!) but they are discolored down by the join, I was thinking about wrapping the header pipe with black exhaust tape wrap up to a little past the slip on joint. What do you guys think? What problems will I have if any?

Thanks
 
I just got a 1986 v-max on Fri and even though the thing runs great, it's a bit of a scrub! It need some TLC. It has a set of supertraps (which sounds like a stock car!) but they are discolored down by the join, I was thinking about wrapping the header pipe with black exhaust tape wrap up to a little past the slip on joint. What do you guys think? What problems will I have if any?

Thanks


I don't see this being a problem. I have used it on the rear header pipe my SV1000S to keep the heat away from my rear shock. It is difficult to do and make it look nice, but it is doable. I actually bought a small role of it when I visited the JC Whitney store and bought the special metal ties as well. The hardest part is holding it while you cinch the tie up to hold it in place.

The stuff I bought was a dark graphite which is a bit lighter now but is holding up fairly well...:banana:
 
It doesn't stick on like tape? Maybe a dumb question but thats how I thought it went on.
 
My pipes are wrapped in black.You need stainless ties to hold it on each end of each piece.
 

Attachments

  • black2.jpg
    black2.jpg
    65.7 KB
Thats on nascar cars running 500miles at 9000rpm.Mine are wrapped tight and sprayed with black high temp silicone to protect them.
 
I'm going to wrap my Kerker after I get the muffler high temp powdercoated. I think it looks awesome. I have the black wrap, the ties and the sealant. I may have a hotrod shop do the wrapping.
 
It will look like **** very shortly after putting it on due to the ground clearance on the bike. Once it hits the ground the covering comes off very quickly. If you do the pipes from the head down to the bottom and leave it bare along the lower frame then it will last longer.
 
It doesn't stick on like tape? Maybe a dumb question but thats how I thought it went on.
Contact Ben, from Ny. He's a member here I believe. He has it and did a decent job. I saw it but don't remeber if he had it clamped. PM me email and I'll bet he'll send a pic. Matter of fact I'll look for a pic. Everyone I meet I take a pic of. The wrap looks way cooler than I imagined it would.
Steve
 
It should be done from can to headers due to the overlap lip being flush back and not the opposite...
 
Thats on nascar cars running 500miles at 9000rpm.Mine are wrapped tight and sprayed with black high temp silicone to protect them.

I'm not going to claim it is going to happen in every application but I've seen murmurous cars with wrapped pipes. I've also seen the holes in the pipes after we unwrapped them. I think it might be more common then most ppl think. Perhaps on a motorcycle where the are more exposed to the cooling air flow that is less likely to happen.
 
here's the best pic of ben's (my brothers)'s bike i could find (off fb.)
 

Attachments

  • 295846_529044576293_302200268_562276_1185445939_n.jpg
    295846_529044576293_302200268_562276_1185445939_n.jpg
    55.6 KB
I think what the cause of the rusted pipes after they are wrapped is moisture being trapped in the wrap against the pipe. Now I also think that there is something in the wrap that when it gets wet it reacts with the metal or coating on the pipes and rusts them faster. I did my rear down pipes since I removed my rear heat sheild.
Just a thought on the matter guys.

G
 

Latest posts

Back
Top