failed expectations

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Fire-medic

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Sometimes aspirations exceed budgets and abilities. The astute collector can benefit from overly-optimistic enthusiasts. Lots of new parts and an assortment of tools (carb synch/balancing set, fork seal driver set) included. He made a clean break from the hobby. The only thing I see missing are the stock exhaust front pipes and the megaphones, but he included a new pair of Delkevic front pipes, the rear cyl pipes are there, look to be lightly-used OEM replacements, no cans, yet. Carb rebuild kits, new spark plugs, a new stator, new carb to VBoost boots, new regulator/rectifier, new unused exhaust wrap, new K & N air filter, new LED dual luminaire headlamp, w/spidery, minimal mounting brackets, and sequential turn signals, engine side cover gasket, three pairs of fork seals, and more.

The tins for the faux gas tank cover and the scoops are done in Dura Coat, I am usually not a fan of flat color finishes, but this looks pretty-good. The fenders need paint. I am debating about whether to strip the Dura Coat from the faux tank cover and to re-paint the bike in the 2005 color, Deep Red Metallic K.
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three pairs of fork seals ?, he must've been expecting trouble :)
I fitted a new pair of delkevic front pipes today, they're much nicer than rust
 
Are they available from Yamaha Eric?

I checked Ron Ayres after I got the meeting set-up to look at the bike, and they do not show the 2005 tank cover is available, colored/decaled. Of course you could have it custom painted. A few good shots of the tank, and a skilled painter ("hey, CaptainKyle!") could do a creditable job, and because it would be paint, it would probably look better-than stock. The person buying the parts didn't know that the early forks and the later forks' downtubes are differently-sized (the bigger is +3mm, or 43 MM) so I am going to have-to search for the correct size. Ones like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/43mm-Bille...ars-Black-43mm-Forks-Cafe-Racer-/163293876538
 
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I checked Ron Ayres after I got the meeting set-up to look at the bike, and they do not show the 2005 tank cover is available, colored/decaled. Of course you could have it custom painted. A few good shots of the tank, and a skilled painter ("hey, CaptainKyle!") could do a creditable job, and because it would be paint, it would probably look better-than stock. The person buying the parts didn't know that the early forks and the later forks' downtubes are differently-sized (the bigger is +3mm, or 43 MM) so I am going to have-to search for the correct size. Ones like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/43mm-Bille...ars-Black-43mm-Forks-Cafe-Racer-/163293876538

Kyle can paint it, and have the flames painted on. I checked with him as well.
 
We have the design files completed but can't find the correct mylar overlay that was used to give the correct finish.
 

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Looks like a solid color, not glossy. That would be easier than paint, probably cheaper & quicker.
 
I spent the afternoon organizing parts and removing barnacles, well, it seemed like they were covered in barnacles! The bike lived in Key West when it was last on the road.

The cardboard boxes crammed with parts (pics #1-3) is now slimmed-down, and in a plastic tub, containing much of the disassembled pieces (pic #4). The bodywork isn't in there, but most of the electrical, braking, footpegs/hand and foot controls, brackets, steering stem/triple trees, side and centerstands, hydraulics (4-piston front calipers, single-pair opposed rear caliper), OEM turnsignals, headlight, various brackets, mirrors, ignition coils, VBoost electrics, digital CDI ignition box, and whatever-else are in the plastic tote.

The carbs are working, in that the slides move/return. They are #4 in-line to be worked-upon, I have 3 sets waiting to be reassembled, I just got in a bunch of parts from Ron Ayres Motorsports for that. These carbs probably won't be touched for a month.

Here is a shot of most of the replacement parts the guy sold as a package. Not-shown are two new Shinko OEM-size tires. From 12 o'clock:
fork oil
mirrors
fork covers (too-small, will be for sale if you can use them, about 33 mm/54 mm and 12" long)
new 13" rear shocks
LED dual luminaire headlight
two handlebars
side-mount license plate holder (for sale)
new aftermarket stator
aluminum leg shields
rear turn signals to match the fronts, sequential illumination, like a '68 Shelby 500
4 new NGK sparkplugs
fork seals
handlebar rubber grips
regulator/rectifier
clutch and front brake reservoir caps
K&N air filter
exhaust wrap
engine side case cover gasket

Here are some new tools he bought for his work to make a 'bobber,' but he lost motivation, I suppose. Aux. gas tank, fork seal driver, and carb synch bourdon tube gauges, all unused.

You see a plano-type box, I have most of the fasteners now cleaned and sorted, which should make my job easier come reassembly time.

I have several pieces yet to source. The seller said the radiator was junk, as-were the front exhaust pipes. I have spares of both, and the seller had a new set of Delkevic front pipes still in the bubble-wrap. I've seen a few items missing during the inventory, which I'll order. Nothing big, just hardware.

I feel better about the project now that I've organized the clutter. I don't expect I'll be doing this right-away, but when it is its turn, I know what's there, and I'll spend time between now and then, getting what needs to be acquired.

The gas cap was overhauled last night, I tried to clean the ignition lock, but wasn't able to make it work well, so I'll drop that off to the locksmith.

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boredom is a thing of the past ;)
look forward to seeing its progression
 
Today I got a new key made off the only key I had for the bike. Yesterday I had doused the ignition lock with solvent and WD-40, trying to get the cylinder to-work more-smoothly. However, it wasn't without a lot of 'bumping' that I was able to-make the ignition lock cylinder turn.

When I arrived home with the new key, I tried it in the cylinder, it fit but still was not smooth in operation. It still required some fiddling to get the cylinder to rotate. But, it was working better than yesterday. Now, I got the lock to go from OFF (position 1) to IGNITION ON (position 2) and to PARK (position 3). I rapidly ran the lock key between positions 2 and 3 repeatedly, and then to position 1. It seems that maybe a soak overnight in the solvent and lube did the lock some good, as by quittin'-time the ignition lock cylinder was able to rotate through all 3 positions with a minimum of fuss. When I get closer to the assembly point where I need the ignition lock cylinder functioning most-smoothly, I'll return to the locksmith where I got the key made for a cleaning/overhaul. Fortunately, the gas cap lock, the steering stem lock, the helmet lock and the faux gas tank cover lock (access to the airbox, coolant reservoir, and electricals) all are working well.

Update(1256 hrs): the soaking from the solvent and WD-40 seem to finally have had time to work, now the ignition cylinder easily turns without fiddling being necessary. Good news, no need to have-to leave the ignition cylinder at the locksmith's, for an overhaul.
 
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