Finally Replacing My Starter Clutch - some questions

[ga_max]

After putting it off for a year I finally decided to replace/repair my starter clutch. I've been reading Yukon Dave's post over an over again and ordered all the parts I need and just started this process. I'm at the point where I'm attempting to remove the fly wheel. I borrowed a harmonic balance puller from Advance Auto and got some grade 10 bolts. I zip tied the parts together and tied the puller to the frame. Now the fun part and my first of I'm sure will be many questions....

As I tighten the bolt on the puller, how do you prevent the shaft from turning also ? I've used my 3/8 breaker bar between the bolts of the puller but that makes it hard to put as much force on the puller bolt. I was hoping this would not be the nightmare some other have had.

The second question concerns my zip ties. I used them to connect everything to the flywheel itself. I saw on of the may pictures and it seemed like a good idea but wanted to make sure.

Thanks in advanced.

Doug

 

[tothemax93]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePW96hG2Ojw

 

[ga_max]

I'm adding some pictures. Is it possible the point on the puller boly is too big ? It looks like its coming off a bit but no big 'bang'...

 

[ga_max]

Thanks for posting the video. I've watched it a few time. I don't have an impact wrench (yet). I still wonder what keeps the engine from turning when you tighten the puller bolt.

 

[ga_max]

Update: I was able to use a jack stand and my cheater to keep the shaft from rotating while I tightened the puller bolt.:clapping: . Then the expected 'bang' happened and the fly wheel is now off. All three bolts were very loose and the top 1/2 of the threads are stripped. I got a new one on ebay, not the HD but since this one lasted 20 years I hoping the new one will also. O'm not using the bolt that came with it since I already ordered OEM. I'm planning on using red locktite and will peen the bold as best as I can. Noe my next question...

Removing the old gasket is turning out to be a big PITA. I've been using a razor and being very careful. Any other suggestions for the tough parts ?

Doug

 

[Zeus36]

Cheap method:
Spray Easy-off oven cleaner on the gasket & let it work for 15 minutes. It will mostly dissolve the gasket, not harming the surface & should scrape off pretty easily with any type of scraper. It will take of paint so be careful.
I switch between a single edge razor or a nylon scraper.

You can also try:

Permatex gasket remover (Highly recommended)
aircraft stripper
Brake cleaner
WD-40
GOO GONE
A long soak with PB Blaster or similar penetrant

The goal is to soften the gasket material enough to penetrate and break the adhesive bond.

 

[DMAN999]

I used a large crescent (adjustable) wrench wedged in my crash guard to keep the flywheel from turning when I removed mine.
No Impact wrench was needed.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=445191&postcount=92
I just used a 3/4" ratchet and hit the puller with a 2 lb. hammer every 1/4 to 1/32 turn or so until it popped loose.
As I posted previously in the How-to thread I did tie the flywheel to the frame and my crash guard so it wouldn't shoot across the garage though.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=445190&postcount=91

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

Retired master mechanic Steve-o helped me replace my starter clutch and I was going crazy trying to remove the old gasket carefully so I wouldn't harm the surface. Well Steve got his hands on it and I watched a pro work. Rather than trying to "shave" the gasket off, stand the razor blade up and scrape it vigorously along the entire surface. In addition to removing the gasket it will smooth mating surface and make it completely flat.

 

[Jan Bee]

You can use a 'metal finisher' wheel on a disc grinder. Or one like below on a drill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lM7IgqMAiA

 

[ga_max]

Thanks for the input. I found using the razor at a 90 degree angle as a scrapper worked well. I'm planning to finishes this task up this week (work gets in the way of everything).