First time clutch job with shift segment on '98

[billy1ear]

Clutch was slipping a little so I decided to replace disks.
Ordered a Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion Kit and their friction and steel plates.
Of course that was before I researched it and saw that that is not the way most folks go.
Read this how to post: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10938
And saw where you should upgrade the shift segment. What year did that upgraded part start getting used?

The parts list from the post above looks like old numbers. This is what I am seeing when I look at Babbits parts site:

4NK-18185-00-00 SEGMENT Qty: 1
new
26H-18185-00-00
93604-12037-00 PIN, DOWEL Qty: 5
new
93604-17198-00
93604-16092-00 PIN, DOWEL Qty: 1
new
93604-21197-00
3JP-15462-00-00 gasket crankcase cover Qty: 1
new
3JP-15462-01-00
90151-06013-00 torx screw Qty: 1

Any pointers before I order from that list or other issues?

Thanks in advance..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231235227995

 

[one2dmax]

1999 was the changeover year. Looks like your list is correct (at least for the qty of parts). I did not verify the part numbers.

 

[billy1ear]

Thanks,
Do i need an extra friction plate?

 

[DMAN999]

You only need an extra full size friction plate if you want to replace the 1/2 size friction and it's associated parts with a full size friction plate.
It isn't necessary, the 1/2 friction provides a bit of slipping to protect your transmission and drive train.

Here's a good guide (just ignore the parts concerning the DD Mod):
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

I have a Barnett 6 spring clutch and did NOT replace the 1/2 friction when I rebuilt my clutch.
I used Yamaha friction plates and just scrubbed my steel plates with a green scotch-brite pad and re-used them.
I ride pretty hard and like this setup a lot.

A few tips on the Barnett clutch is to make sure it is aligned so it is tight against the outer friction plate and only tighten the bolts enough so that the washers are flush or just past flush with the Barnett pressure plate (see the attached pictures).
Also make sure the frictions are aligned properly with the 2 dots on the clutch basket as shown below.
Also install all the steels facing the same direction, I installed mine with the rounds edges facing out like they were when I removed them.

 

[billy1ear]

Thanks for the info. Will post back when I am done. Am gonna order the parts for the segment upgrade, so will probably get it done this weekend or next.

 

[billy1ear]

No 2 dots on the Barnett friction plates, looked for 5 mins for something like on the old ones but nada.

You only need an extra full size friction plate if you want to replace the 1/2 size friction and it's associated parts with a full size friction plate.
It isn't necessary, the 1/2 friction provides a bit of slipping to protect your transmission and drive train.

Here's a good guide (just ignore the parts concerning the DD Mod):
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

I have a Barnett 6 spring clutch and did NOT replace the 1/2 friction when I rebuilt my clutch.
I used Yamaha friction plates and just scrubbed my steel plates with a green scotch-brite pad and re-used them.
I ride pretty hard and like this setup a lot.

A few tips on the Barnett clutch is to make sure it is aligned so it is tight against the outer friction plate and only tighten the bolts enough so that the washers are flush or just past flush with the Barnett pressure plate (see the attached pictures).
Also make sure the frictions are aligned properly with the 2 dots on the clutch basket as shown below.
Also install all the steels facing the same direction, I installed mine with the rounds edges facing out like they were when I removed them.

 

[Dragmaxster]

No 2 dots on the Barnett friction plates, looked for 5 mins for something like on the old ones but nada.

The 2 dots are on the clutch basket.

 

[DMAN999]

No 2 dots on the Barnett friction plates, looked for 5 mins for something like on the old ones but nada.

Scroll Up and look at the last picture I posted there.
It shows the notches on the friction plates and the 2 dots on the clutch basket.
That's what it should look like when everything is installed correctly. using Yamaha OEM friction plates

If you are using Barnett friction plates they might Not have those notches on them like the OEM frictions do.

 

[billy1ear]

Using Barnett plates. No dots. I called them and they said no dots.
Buttoned it up and tried the clutch before I put oil in it and it wouldn't pull.
Good thing I am off tomorrow and can pull it apart again.
Guess I will be looking for threads about that symptom tonight.

edit:
When I said dots i meant the 2 u shaped index groves. The Barnett frictions don't have them (called Barnett's to verify). You don't have to index their plates.

 

[Traumahawk]

Is it in gear or neutral? Did you pull the clutch with the plates out? If so you would have to bleed the clutch to relieve pressure off of it.

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk

 

[DMAN999]

Is the Barnett Pressure plate properly aligned so it is tight against the first friction plate ?
Like this:

 

[billy1ear]

Saw a post about not pulling the clutch lever while the thing is apart, so i did not mess with it until i had it back together,
DMAN999 said to not tighten the clutch spring bolts all the way. Barnett tech support said you should. I did what Barnett said, maybe that is where i went wrong.

 

[[email protected]]

Over tightening the spring bolts will just cause the bolts to snap. It won't hurt the springs at all since the bolts shoulder against the posts of the inner clutch hub.

The two most common causes have been noted.

1. The clutch lever gets squeezed when the basket is apart

2. The pressure plate is not properly aligned with the basket and inner hub.

I'd guess #2. Take the pressure plate off. Note the splines on the inner hub and notches in the back of the pressure plate. They only CORRECTLY line up in one postion.

 

[DMAN999]

Tightening the Bolts past flush with the pressure plate will cause the clutch to NOT work properly.
I know because I did it when I installed mine, Barnett said to tighten them as tight as they would go but that is NOT correct.
Tighten them so that the washers are flush with the pressure plate as shown in the picture below (and in my previous post)

I've had a Barnett pressure plate on my Vmax since 2012 and have never had any issues with it once it was installed Correctly.

 

[billy1ear]

Thanks for all your input. Will take the cover off in a bit an loosen the springs and check to see that the pressure plate is flush with the outside friction plate.
Will post back with results.

 

[billy1ear]

Thanks DMAN, you are my new bff!
The plate was not flush because the piston was too far out. Bleeding the clutch and pushing the piston in made it flush. Guess new plates and plate are a different thickness. Makes sense after I've suffered through it.
Tested running on the stand ok, need to ride it to make sure i am good.
Thanks again.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/member.php?u=4612

 

[DMAN999]

Glad to hear you got it worked out.