naughtyG
Well-Known Member
ok so today I checked that I had good spark on my #1 cylinder, and it's definitely a very bright one with the COPs!
I then went on to check out the wet floats level as I'd only ever set them dry on the bench when I rebuilt my carbs last year.
I took a piece of clear tubing that fitted perfectly over the drain hoses and marked a line exactly 16mm from its end:
Made sure the carbs were level according to service manual, and then warmed up the motor and checked wet levels. This is what I found out:
#1 lean by about 1mm
#2 rich by over 3mm :ummm:
#3 bang on 16mm :eusa_dance:
#4 rich by 3mm :ummm::ummm:
So I took the carbs off to check it all out - I could not believe the front carbs fuel levels to be so high?
Upon opening the fuel bowls this is what I found - definitely getting a new fuel filter but it's looking like my tank may be a little rusty inside :bang head:
looking at the float level of carb #2 on the bench, it looks pretty much right, so I really can't work out why it would show 3mm high (rich) when wet!?
then checking #4 the same is true:
So what now? Do I really want to bend the #2 & #4 tabs to make the floats a whole 3mm lower??:ummm: It doesn't seem to make any sense, and I'm 100% sure I held up the clear tubing's end to the middle piston mark on the carb bodies as per the service manual. How could #2 & #4 show up a whole 3mm high when they look like this on the bench? Could it be that the tiny spring in the needle valves has gone weak? On the bench those springs are uncompressed - the float is resting at the point where the needle valve closes, which is where the reading should be taken, right? Any advice will be greatly appreciated! :confused2:
Then looking a the fuel taken when draining the bowls, I also saw this:
So I think my problem is mostly due to contaminated fuel. Does everyone agree? Still, I can't work out why I keep losing just one cylinder (apparently #1) when the bike gets really hot, and then only at idle to mid revs, then it comes back to life. Any suggestions? I really wanna get this sorted to go ride Deal's Gap next week!
I then went on to check out the wet floats level as I'd only ever set them dry on the bench when I rebuilt my carbs last year.
I took a piece of clear tubing that fitted perfectly over the drain hoses and marked a line exactly 16mm from its end:
Made sure the carbs were level according to service manual, and then warmed up the motor and checked wet levels. This is what I found out:
#1 lean by about 1mm
#2 rich by over 3mm :ummm:
#3 bang on 16mm :eusa_dance:
#4 rich by 3mm :ummm::ummm:
So I took the carbs off to check it all out - I could not believe the front carbs fuel levels to be so high?
Upon opening the fuel bowls this is what I found - definitely getting a new fuel filter but it's looking like my tank may be a little rusty inside :bang head:
looking at the float level of carb #2 on the bench, it looks pretty much right, so I really can't work out why it would show 3mm high (rich) when wet!?
then checking #4 the same is true:
So what now? Do I really want to bend the #2 & #4 tabs to make the floats a whole 3mm lower??:ummm: It doesn't seem to make any sense, and I'm 100% sure I held up the clear tubing's end to the middle piston mark on the carb bodies as per the service manual. How could #2 & #4 show up a whole 3mm high when they look like this on the bench? Could it be that the tiny spring in the needle valves has gone weak? On the bench those springs are uncompressed - the float is resting at the point where the needle valve closes, which is where the reading should be taken, right? Any advice will be greatly appreciated! :confused2:
Then looking a the fuel taken when draining the bowls, I also saw this:
So I think my problem is mostly due to contaminated fuel. Does everyone agree? Still, I can't work out why I keep losing just one cylinder (apparently #1) when the bike gets really hot, and then only at idle to mid revs, then it comes back to life. Any suggestions? I really wanna get this sorted to go ride Deal's Gap next week!