flooded car possible, need help!

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I'd pull the starter and operate it with jumper cables to observe the action. It may not be, like mentioned, engaging the flywheel and the gear not thrusting forward. After the dip, it's possible.Nothing wrong with putting WD-40 in the cylinders. Just make shure you can crank the engine first, to pump it all out before starting.
Steve
 
Be sure and disconnect the hot from the batt before removing starter And here is how you test it the gear should jump out toward the end of the starter .It may do so but the starter drive just below the gear could also be bad. be careful.And take care.
 

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If you don't, you're gonna get a big arc when the hot lead grounds!

The starter bendix is what engages the starter & the crankshaft flywheel gear/flexplate, depending on if it's a manual or an automatic tranny.

Be sure and disconnect the hot from the batt before removing starter And here is how you test it the gear should jump out toward the end of the starter .It may do so but the starter drive just below the gear could also be bad. be careful.And take care.
 
There is a mark on one of the pulleys within the serpentine belt that appears to be in a different location after i turn the key with the plugs out...does that mean the flywheel is moving and the engine seized? i'm going to try to manually spin it, from the passenger side by the wheel, not sure what direction though.... for now i gotta get it up first though to do this..
 
I jacked up the car and, did what I was hoping was to manually spin the engine... I put the socket on the big pulley whatever it is called towards the bottom of the diagram First Pic. The plugs are out and I am able to turn the pulleys all the way around, it isn't too tough, So I think that means the pistons are free to move....?

When I turn the key, all I hear is that same sound, but as mentioned before, it appears the pulleys are moving on the serp belt b/c the white mark on one of them is in a different position... now what?

does that mean starter is turning flywheel and starter is still good? pistons will spin around when I manually crank, assuming I'm doing that correct...

**i took some video but it won't load on here, some security thing. The pulleys onthe serpentine belt are moving when I turn the key. Also when I manually turn it via the wrench and socket pictured.... all i hear is that same sound..wheeeeeee
 

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Load the video file onto a site like dropbox.com and then post the link from there.
 
Starters ok.By the video.And it does the same thing with the plugs installed,Right?This is one of those oh **** moments.Can you stick your finger in one or more of the spark plug holes and have someone turn it over?If it were me i would only try the front side,If no compression i would say its over.If it makes exactly the same noise with the plugs out as it does with them in,Right?That's unusual to say the least.Does it have a timing belt?Im gonna look that up.Ill get back to you.Right now looks pretty bad.
 
I did a quick search it looks like it has a timing chain. Probaly dosen't matter.All kinds of **** happens when cold water hits the inside of a cylinder.You can give the wd 40 thing a shot.most mechanics will do a compression test if any of the cylinders show super low compression they will tell you they got to tear it down.Didn't want to tell you that.Mabye someone on here may have a idea.Something we all may have overlooked.I just don't believe so.But mabye.So very sorry i could not have been more help.May this be the day your luck turns around.Bless you my friend.Terry.
 
Make sure the starter gear isn't jammed into the flywheel when not cranking. Starters need that slight momentum they get before engaging the flywheel.
 
Make sure the starter gear isn't jammed into the flywheel when not cranking. Starters need that slight momentum they get before engaging the flywheel.

i posted 2 links to video of what is going on. on page 3. starter is engaging flywheel.
 
It is really hard to believe the engine has no compression on any cylinders,But you say it sounds the same with the spark plugs in the engine,to me this would indicate the engine has jumped timing,I don't believe this is a safe head engine,Which means it's bent all of the valves in the heads.Or broken every piston or the rings.this engine or any engine shouldn't have done this.If it has no compression with the plugs in it the engine is done,It will cost way more to fix than the car is worth.Bent valves broken pistons whatever.spinning the engine over by hand is not gonna tell you much.No need in wearing yourself out.You can get a compression tester and check the compression.Or you can do the same thing with your finger.As fire medic suggested ,I believe you've had something happen that the flooding just helped along.Total engine failure.Bent a rod or two mabye.busted piston could have.But the whole engine lost compression.Some kind of timing jump bent every valve in it.If you feel like and want to take the time,I would like to see a video of it rolling over with the plugs in it.If not that's ok too.So very sorry this happend to you.If all is like you say the expense will cost more than getting another car along the same year.I wish you all the luck in the world.Best of luck in finding another.Bless you.Terry.
 
It's probably not a good financial move to try to locate another engine, if you cannot replace it yourself. The labor & parts cost would better be put towards another vehicle.
 
It is really hard to believe the engine has no compression on any cylinders,But you say it sounds the same with the spark plugs in the engine,to me this would indicate the engine has jumped timing,I don't believe this is a safe head engine,Which means it's bent all of the valves in the heads.Or broken every piston or the rings.this engine or any engine shouldn't have done this.If it has no compression with the plugs in it the engine is done,It will cost way more to fix than the car is worth.Bent valves broken pistons whatever.spinning the engine over by hand is not gonna tell you much.No need in wearing yourself out.You can get a compression tester and check the compression.Or you can do the same thing with your finger.As fire medic suggested ,I believe you've had something happen that the flooding just helped along.Total engine failure.Bent a rod or two mabye.busted piston could have.But the whole engine lost compression.Some kind of timing jump bent every valve in it.If you feel like and want to take the time,I would like to see a video of it rolling over with the plugs in it.If not that's ok too.So very sorry this happend to you.If all is like you say the expense will cost more than getting another car along the same year.I wish you all the luck in the world.Best of luck in finding another.Bless you.Terry.

I also find it odd, even with damage from hydrolocking I would guess it to still have compression in some of the cyls with plugs installed, at least enough to make it sound like something other than its just free spinning as with no plugs. A complete loss of compression in all cyls sort of defies explanation. Not saying it's impossible but I've never seen or heard of hydrolocking causing a timing chian to fail, in extreme cases I have heard of head and/or block damage but if you were just idling I would not guess any of the above. Bent rod/s I can see but something here isnt adding up. My guess would be that with the plugs in and turning over with the starter it would at least sound like it's trying to start.

Before you wright this thing off do you have any friends or colleagues that hold their own with cars. Maybe a neighbor you can buy a few beers for? It seems like it would be a good idea to get someone to physically put their hands on it for an in person assessment.
 
i posted 2 links to video of what is going on. on page 3. starter is engaging flywheel.

Let me make that clear. The starter gear, should be retracted when not in use or this symptom will appear. Also, battery condition is questionable. I saw the videos. They don't show starter action at the gear.
 
With out being an experienced mechanic or at least done some wrenching, it seems you are spinning your wheels. I would suggest hiring someone to who can fix it to come and do a diagnosis. This engine more than likely has a timing belt. At a certain mileage they need to be replaced. That information is in the owner's manual. One thing that troubled me after reading all the posts and I'll say it now, remove the computer fuse from the fuse box inside the car. This will insure the injectors are not dumping fuel into the cylinders and you don't accidentally get zapped from the coil pack. New wires and new sparkplugs but not until you get the engine properly diagnosed. Go to Craigs list they are always mobil mechanics ads. Some guy who works at a dealership and is trying to feed the wife and kids by moonlighting. He would have the tools and knowledge. You could always go the local chevy dealership at closing and go in back where mechanics park their cars.
 
With out being an experienced mechanic or at least done some wrenching, it seems you are spinning your wheels. I would suggest hiring someone to who can fix it to come and do a diagnosis. This engine more than likely has a timing belt. At a certain mileage they need to be replaced. That information is in the owner's manual. One thing that troubled me after reading all the posts and I'll say it now, remove the computer fuse from the fuse box inside the car. This will insure the injectors are not dumping fuel into the cylinders and you don't accidentally get zapped from the coil pack. New wires and new sparkplugs but not until you get the engine properly diagnosed. Go to Craigs list they are always mobil mechanics ads. Some guy who works at a dealership and is trying to feed the wife and kids by moonlighting. He would have the tools and knowledge. You could always go the local chevy dealership at closing and go in back where mechanics park their cars.

These engines have a chain driven cam, no timing belts on this model. If the chain breaks the valves hit the pistons, it's an interference engine. Luckily chains usually give plenty of warning before they fail. Belts fail because nobody wants to pay $1000+ for basic "maintenance". Timing belt failure is one minute your driving, next minute your standing along side the road with a car that needs extensive internal engine work with no warning at all. Hydrolocking is highly unlikely to effect a timing belt or chain.

This vehicle needs assessment by someone used to working with engines.
 
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