Fly wheel puller

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jedi-

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I got to use my jedi-matic fly wheel puller on my xvs1100 yesterday and it worked
really well. That's the 3rd time I have used it on 3 different bikes including my max without any drama at all. I had wondered if I just got lucky after the first time I used it but now I'm convinced it's the right way to go.
I have a theory as to why it works well and I'm pretty sure I'm right.
The forum on the xvs site has horror stories just like here of people busting stuff and using large hammers to beat stuff around.

These are not difficult to make and I can supply details or even make a couple
if anyone's interested.
 
jedi you could make a couple and just send them out and people pass them one person to the next, paying shipping as they go and kicking you $5? $10 to a paypal account when they're done with it. maybe include 2-3 sets of bolts/washers whatever and the disc. just an idea.
 
If not too expensive, I would buy one. (So long as it also had instructions. :biglaugh: )
 
jedi you could make a couple and just send them out and people pass them one person to the next, paying shipping as they go and kicking you $5? $10 to a paypal account when they're done with it. maybe include 2-3 sets of bolts/washers whatever and the disc. just an idea.

What I will do is make something and maybe send it to Sean. If folks want to use it that's fine provided they pay his postage AND make a donation to the forum.

We can actually make them regardless if anyone really wants one.
 
whats the theory behind your puller? i'm interested from the engineering side. at a simple thought it seems no different from a regular harmonic puller, pressure is on the same pieces, its just what is being tightened....
 
whats the theory behind your puller? i'm interested from the engineering side. at a simple thought it seems no different from a regular harmonic puller, pressure is on the same pieces, its just what is being tightened....

I'm pretty sure it's working because unlike most puller which tend to apply pressure thru the centre, mine distributes applied pressure via the 3 outer bolts.
The winding in of a centre bolt type puller is somewhat counter productive IMO
because they tend to mash the thread onto a face which just creates resistance which maybe the reason those tend to pop or fly off when the resistance is overcome enough to the tension of the f/wheel.

Tapers come in all kinds which us engineers refer to a fast or slow taper, meaning that a slow taper is one of a finer taper with a shallow angle which are very strong and difficult to separate. F/wheels including our max are generally a fast taper with a steepish angle which really means they should be relatively easy to separate.

Anyway that's my theory and I'm sticking to it lol
 
Jedi , I am interested in having this in my tool box. i alway use pullers at work and would be good to have this thing. Would you be interested in selling one
 
Jedi , I am interested in having this in my tool box. i alway use pullers at work and would be good to have this thing. Would you be interested in selling one

Sure no problem although it may be limited to a certain size range if you want a generic puller for various sizes and it would need some slots rather than just 3 Vmax sized pulley holes.

What I'll do is machine one up for the Vmax and send it to Sean and let him and others use it a see that it does perform ok and then I could knock one out for you.
 
Steve, depending on the price, I may be up for getting one here too to hold for all the Oz members of this forum. It'd be too expensive to ship back and forth from the US..
 
I'm pretty sure it's working because unlike most puller which tend to apply pressure thru the centre, mine distributes applied pressure via the 3 outer bolts.
The winding in of a centre bolt type puller is somewhat counter productive IMO
because they tend to mash the thread onto a face which just creates resistance which maybe the reason those tend to pop or fly off when the resistance is overcome enough to the tension of the f/wheel.

Tapers come in all kinds which us engineers refer to a fast or slow taper, meaning that a slow taper is one of a finer taper with a shallow angle which are very strong and difficult to separate. F/wheels including our max are generally a fast taper with a steepish angle which really means they should be relatively easy to separate.

Anyway that's my theory and I'm sticking to it lol

it makes sense to me, and i'm just curious b/c it interests me but wouldn't having the center bolt still be putting pressure on the crankshaft and then in turn on the 3 spots where the bolts go in, very similar to yours? i was almost thinking yours works because it sort of 'wiggles' it off. if you're removing something fit like that by hand (obviously not that well on it though) you never grab the whole thing you wiggle one side then the other.

Steve, depending on the price, I may be up for getting one here too to hold for all the Oz members of this forum. It'd be too expensive to ship back and forth from the US..

what a guy!
 
Steve, depending on the price, I may be up for getting one here too to hold for all the Oz members of this forum. It'd be too expensive to ship back and forth from the US..

Thanks, I could probably make another for nothing and you could hold on to it if you like.
 
Steve, I have no problem putting your puller into the loaner pile of stuff I have around here!

Sean
 
Ok, done I have machined 2 pullers for the Vmax community today but I need some help.
You'll notice in my picture of my own puller I have a bunch of holes because I have used it on other bikes with different holes PCD to mount it to different f/w's.
I can't remember which holes on my puller are specific to our Vmax fly- wheel.
I really don't want to pull my own cover off my bikes to find out, so I really need someone to measure the hole centres on a max F/W so I can drill the 3 holes.
Looking at my own puller I think it is either 70mm or 72mm.

Once I know this I can drill the 3 holes and ship them out to our community.:eusa_dance:

I can show you how to measure the pcd if anyone has a f/w on hand and is not sure how to do it. (You'll need a vernier caliper )
 
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