flywheel removal

[Dreamster66]

other than using the yamaha sheave to help remove it, is there any other way?
and if the starter clutch wiggles around (some play in it) is that a indication its bad or the woodruff key is bad?

 

[one2dmax]

some play is normal. Look at the ends of the bolts that are protruding out from the backside. See if you can wiggle them with the end of you finger. If they move then that is likely your problem. Getting the flywheel off isn't much fun.

Sean Morley

 

[headwork]

Sean is right about it not being fun. I just used a normal puller and used a nut, just placed on the end of the crankshaft so i wouldn't damage it. I didn't have to heat mine up, but I did have to whack the end of the puller for awhile. I was sitting there for about 5 min., looking at what I thought was a lost cause when the phone rang....I stood up to answer it and the flywheel just popped off! Right into the oil pan below it throwing oil all over the place.

The bolts to be used for the puller are M8-1.125 I believe. I used about a 4" long bolt. And use a quality bolt, you are going to be putting a ton of force on them.....I was practically picking the bike up while cranking on the puller.

The starter clutch was the reason for me taking off the flywheel in the first place. Mine is a '93 with about 19,000 miles on and the clutch just gave up on me trying to start it one day. The bolts were loose on the bad clutch, but I didn't seem to have to much play in the gear when I tried wiggling it.

Hope that helps,
Josh

 

[davidon]

Dreamster

If normal removal methods don't work get in touch..I had to resort to getting a 12 ton hydraulic puller which worked. Snapped the regular puller tool . Went over 150 ft lbs and the wheel did'nt budge.

D

 

[Dreamster66]

so basically, the only way of getting the flywheel off is how yamaha says to do it, with that sheave?
Parts are coming in by the end /or 1st part of the week.

 

[Dreamster66]

ok....I got the center bolt out.....I have a puller (3 finger type)
BUT.....The ******* flywheel wont budge AND I bent the **** outta 2 grade 8 bolts!
WHOLLY **** BATMAN! I'm about to give up and take it to the local stealer!

 

[F4 phantom]

I have an '85 with 59,000 original miles....and original starter clutch. needless to say that it started sounding like i had rocks inside the engine side cover on startup, letting me know that the starter clutch was on its way out. much to my frustration, i've tried 3 different pullers of which the 1st one bent, the second sheared a jaw/leg assembly bolt and lastly a 5 ton hydraulic, with no success in removing the flywheel. heat hasn't helped at all.........yes......i left the center bolt in, but it was loose and backed out about 1/8 inch (didnt want the flywheel & puller to go airborne once it came loose).....but it didnt come loose. superbly frustrated....any suggestions?

 

[user 16790]

once you have pressure on the puller you should be able to 'shock' it off by hitting strategically with a hammer

 

[PATMAX]

You tube has Sean Morley showing you a step by step. Not sure I would use “jaws” but high grade bolts. Impact the puller tight as you can. Zip tie through the assembly to keep all parts together. 2lb sledge and rap the end of the ouller like you mean it. The whole damn assembly tool and all comes off in your hand. Its heavy. Congrats, you just pulled your First one off.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Have a look here

 

[Wirenut]

I did this earlier this summer. Used a harmonic balancer to remove (3-bolt tool). It did take some time and a lot of choice words. After about an hour I took a step back to gather my thoughts and took the extra effort to make sure that the puller was exactly plumb or straight to the magnet. All three bolts must have equal pressure. 10 minutes later she slid right out. I must’ve watched Sean’s video about a dozen times tryin to figure out what I was doing wrong. I even used the same number of zip-ties to hold the flywheel on...

 

[F4 phantom]

Thank you Maxmidnight for the pics of your puller customization. am working on making those custom bits for my next removal attempt.

 

[MaxMidnight]

My pleasure but the credit must go to Thomas Powell who posted the 'how to'.

One thing to check. I need to put a champfer on the flywheel end to allow the pillar to sit down snugly. Thomas doesn't mention this so I don't know if this is something particular to my year of bike ('99) or is a general feature on all flywheels.

I din't even hear the small 'pop' that Thomas mentions; I didn't reailse it had come off the taper until it nearly fell off.

 

[jjb66]

some play is normal. Look at the ends of the bolts that are protruding out from the backside. See if you can wiggle them with the end of you finger. If they move then that is likely your problem. Getting the flywheel off isn't much fun.

Sean Morley

Hello, I trying to install a flywheel on, I replaced starter clutch. Seems keyway is catching the beginning, do I hit with rubber matel or tight flywheel bolt to push in flywheel in? Thanks

 

[one2dmax]

The flywheel should slip on by hand but a light tap could help if needed. The surface of the crank nose will be recessed somewhat below the surface of the flywheel center (about 1/8" I think).

 

[Tom Determan]

Sean, Yamaha uses multipiece pressed crankshaft in their 2T sled and bike engines. These cranks have full circle wheels to "stuff" the case and 1 piece rods. I was taught to never hit the crank very hard, and have never had to, to release the flywheel, or one can "bend" it. Nothing really bends, but the clocking or orientation of all the parts can be changed and and that results in a "bent" or out of true shaft.

Are these cranks immune to this issue ? I assume they're forged and can't get out of true. 2# hammer and hit the s--t out of it ?

The flywheel should slip on by hand but a light tap could help if needed. The surface of the crank nose will be recessed somewhat below the surface of the flywheel center (about 1/8" I think).

 

[MaxMidnight]

They are one piece...note the advice ''light tap" which should all that is needed to get it to go into the taper.
I've also found that angling the front of the woodruff key slightly downwards helps.

 

[one2dmax]

These are 4140 cranks. About as good as you can get for an OEM. Not the ****** two (or more) parts that are common in other models that then have to be pinnned and welded to hold up to any power. You can get pretty rude with them.

Sean, Yamaha uses multipiece pressed crankshaft in their 2T sled and bike engines. These cranks have full circle wheels to "stuff" the case and 1 piece rods. I was taught to never hit the crank very hard, and have never had to, to release the flywheel, or one can "bend" it. Nothing really bends, but the clocking or orientation of all the parts can be changed and and that results in a "bent" or out of true shaft.

Are these cranks immune to this issue ? I assume they're forged and can't get out of true. 2# hammer and hit the s--t out of