Fork Brace opinions..

[Dezeez]

I just purchased a set of custom painted body parts so I removed my front and rear fender yesterday. It's the first time I got a good look at the fork brace that everybody replaces. I'm a little tight on money but I thought this might be a good time to replace the stock brace.

I was surprised how sturdy the brace seemed to be. I expected it to be obviously flimsy but it looks fairly stiff to me. As anybody replaced just the brace and have it make a difference in handling? I have a death inducing wobble at about 115 mph so if it helps, I'll find the money.

I noticed that you can buy the stock brace chrome plated. Wouldn't the chrome crack if these flex that much?

FYI I have a 2000 with the Furber fix, progressive springs and lowered in the front 1". Stock tires and progressive shocks 1/2" lowered in the back.

 

[4gasem]

The after market ones are a waste of money but I put one on since I needed to drop my front fender to fit better with the radial. It looks really goofy with the stocker when you do this. Stay stock and spend your money on something like frame braces or front springs and oil.:thumbs up:

 

[hubeerjw]

I have talked to a few people on this subject, and I think I am one of the few that do not believe that the fork brace is part of the problem. Some people claim that the brace's weak point is the oversized 9mm bolt holes for the 8mm bolt (I believe those are the dimensions). I highly doubt that the forks are moving around so much that there is some "slop" in those bolt holes. There should be enough friction to keep everything from slipping. If anyone has any painted frame braces, please check and see if the paint is worn or if the brace has any scuff marks where it looks like it may have moved.

Some people think the brace itself is weak and flexes. From looking at the underside of the part, I would think cracks would develop somewhere on the gusseted "X" part... (if that is the correct way to describe it) or on the mounting tabs. Castings don't flex too much before cracks develop, so I have a hard time believing the brace is the weak point. If anyone has a cracked fork brace, then I may rethink this. The axel and the triples keep everything pretty tight...

I would believe that the majority of the high speed wobbles come from a few various conditions:
First: Steering bearing torque & bearing condition
Front wheel/tire combo or balancing issues
Rider Position or Weight Distribution

It would also be interesting to find out if this happens more with certain types of handlebars..... maybe someone could start a poll with certain questions as to when this happens.... what speed, rider weight, year of bike, handle bar type, rider's position (crouched, upright), etc...

I have never had this problem, so I feel a little inexperienced talking about this.... but I guess it's the engineer in me.
I am very interested in hearing what others have to say about this.

Jeff (with another 4" of snow in Iowa)

 

[4gasem]

Jeff (with another 4" of snow in Iowa)

lol we got rain!:banana:

 

[Dezeez]

Yeah, I think after looking at the brace that the aftermarket ones are a bit of hype. I think most people put them on while doing other mods and of course, if you like the looks of the aftermarket ones, cosmetics are important, too. I like the stocker.

Rain here in PA, too. In fact, it's been so wet this winter that even on the warmer days, the roads are too sloppy to ride. Wouldn't want to get my baby dirty.

 

[maxcruiser]

I would like to add my opinion on this subject. Before buying the fork brace, I noticed that my front wheel had "cupped" (irregular wear). I replaced the front tire with the same one (michelin mcadam 50) and added a fork brace and this "cupping" problem did not happen on the new tire as it used. Nothing else was changed at that time which leads me to believe that the new stiffer fork brace helped.

I think that the fork brace is one part of the overall solution to the vmax handling shortcomings. Cartridge emulators, progressive or race tech springs, lowering the front end and furfur fix, etc, etc, etc.... will add up to a better handling bike.

Mike

 

[gleno]

I've used the chromed 'standard' type brace and really can't fault it.

I've switched to an aftermarket billet brace because I fitted 17"rims and had to lower the guard and I can't fault it either.

In my opinion they both do a great job.

Setting up the front end to run true is not just a matter of bolting everything together.

You have to make sure everything is aligned true to square and torqued up properly.

If its out anywhere you will get quirky handling problems.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I agree that if the stock cast aluminum brace flexed very much it might crack, and that the fork braces "may" be a bit of hype.

But seeing that the stock brace IS such an inferior, weak product I don't see the harm in replacing it.

The axle diameter, front bearing play, and how tight the front axle is pulled down with the nut is basically what is preventing the forks from moving independently unless the brace is doing it's job so to me making a complete solid "box" out of what was almost an unsupported "U" can't hurt.......

 

[4gasem]

Lowering the forks through the triples or doing an internal lowering also helps...:thumbs up:

 

[one2dmax]

actually, it's not the bolts on the aftermarket braces that are doing the improvement. It's the exact fit (which is very tight) between the fork radius areas. If it was made right you almost have to use a rubber mallet to work them into the forks and then the bolts only hold the brace there.

Sean Morley