Front end wobble and best tire option

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hwystar1

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I have only a minor issue at 40 -45 mph and the front end has been checked out and tightened. My question is, do you think the fly screen and backrest contribute to it?
Second what is the best tire option for a stock vmax. I have never been a fan of the Dunlops.

Thanks
Hwystar1
 
No the backrest and flyscreen should not contribute to it. A lot of us run Metzler Me 880 they will make a world of diffrence. Some of us also run Shinko Tourmaster 230's & have good luck with them although they wont last as long as the Metzler.
 
+1 the Metz and Shinks are the forum's more popular choices. Shinko's are stickier than Metz, but don't last as long as the Cap says. also if you didn't know, you can also stick a 170/80-15 on the rear stock for that "wide" look.
 
Quality shocks in the rear and upgraded fork springs w/emulators, help a great deal with the handling.

The stock rear shocks squat under acceleration, making the front end light. Under braking the front springs compress too much causing the front end to dive excessively.
 
Quality shocks in the rear and upgraded fork springs w/emulators, help a great deal with the handling.

The stock rear shocks squat under acceleration, making the front end light. Under braking the front springs compress too much causing the front end to dive excessively.

........... and in the middle of it all , the frame and the swing arm flexes .
 
I Have Stock rear shocks and front Fork Springs and I have only ever had the front end wobble when I had a Front tire that developed some cupping or when my steering head bearing was loose.
I check the Steering head bearing yearly and tighten it as needed and run a Metzler LaserTech front Tire with a Shinko Tourmaster 230 Rear Tire.
So as far as I have ever seen running a quality front tire with a similar tread pattern to the rear and keeping the head bearing at the proper torque is all that is needed to avoid the front end wobble (low or high speed).

All of the other changes will certainly help handling but they are usually not necessary to stop the wobble.
 
If your bikes wobbles at 40 to 45 there is something wrong. Get someone else to check out front end.Tires springs or shocks will not fix it. Something is being overlooked.
 
If your bikes wobbles at 40 to 45 there is something wrong. Get someone else to check out front end.Tires springs or shocks will not fix it. Something is being overlooked.
I have to disagree to a certain point here I have seen plenty of cupped are odd worn tires that make a bike wobble at certain speeds. Not trying to be an ass just saying.
 
my next purchase will be a set of tires. I have always hated the dunlops, they always seem to wear like crap on front ends. I changed to a metzler on the front end of my vtx 1800 and it made a hugh difference.
 
If your bikes wobbles at 40 to 45 there is something wrong. Get someone else to check out front end.Tires springs or shocks will not fix it. Something is being overlooked.

What about at 140?
Siriously not a joke running Metz me880 front and rear normal? I know it's not supposed to be a super top end bike but just wondering
 
No to the back rest or flyscreen being the problem. Yes to bad tire problem. Neck bearings I'd double check regargless. Takes two minutes. Dunlop qualifiers? good for??? Nice lettering and hole shots? Cost for Dunlops is a total rip.
Lot's of good tire threads and advice here. I ran Shinko's for years. I had one that a dealer balanced twice, loaded one side with balance weight, ran out 1/4 inch after one season. In fairness to Shinko he mounted it 180 degress off. Good place to get sun glasses. I use Dyna beads now and stocked up on rim protectors and irons from Motion Pro. Do it yourself Bro. We'll walk you through it. New radials with fresh powder coat? I will mount myself. The Shinko's on now have 8k + plus miles on them. Cracked, worn, not cupped but done.One season tire for me, very sticky when NEW wet or dry, cheap too.Get Metzlers if cash isn't an issue.
Steve-o
 
What about at 140?
Siriously not a joke running Metz me880 front and rear normal? I know it's not supposed to be a super top end bike but just wondering

You don't have a normal rear tire right?
 
What about at 140?
Siriously not a joke running Metz me880 front and rear normal? I know it's not supposed to be a super top end bike but just wonderin g

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-Sorry

I think most test the limit with their Vmax tires. My riding and street racing goes like this most of the time, rolling in second at 30mph, then W.O.T. up to about 130 tops and my Bros sportbike flys by so I shut down. Saves me from blowing something,(rolling) get my little Brother pissed and puts him in his place for a whole minute or two.He was bragging how he dusted 3 VMAX's, (me inclided) on the way home from Rice-o-Rama. I love my little Bro and riding with him too. His bike makes like 160 hp I think? Not down low though. All I need is a sneeky bit of a jump on him, what's more fun than that? We still hold our own on the low end against some sport type bikes. I never could compete with Bro.at high speed though, he kicks in to a lower gear at 120 and by by. They have lots of electronics, much less weight, more hp than us. Still though, that bike k1200s isn't very pretty. I told him in all fairness he should try a New VMAX Gen2:angry flame:. Not the poor old 80's tech, high milage Gen1 that smoked his ass...lol.(that's when it's time to go) I hope we run into Jim next season. Toxic! My Bro will be looking at Maxes after that. I'll have my camara way up the rode...
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Steve
 
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I have rode my bike with horribly cuped frunt tires before Pcw reworked my head bearing and never wobbled at that low speed. My buddy had a guy do the furber fix and it was horrible,I had to redo the ajustment and it was all good.:ummm: Yall might be right but i think something is screwed up.
 
To address the question of the 'BEST' tire.....MetzlerZ6 Interact radials, in my opinion, are the best tire for the V Max. 'Course that means converting to radial wheels, etc. The best bias tire, again this is my opinion....only, is the ME880 Metzler Marathon on the rear and the Metzler ME33 Lasertec on the front. I also believe the front tire should be no larger than a 110 due to the effects of 'rotating mass.' Actually, the rear is goverened by the same law of physics as the front as far as rotating mass but you aren't going to get a v maxxer to put a 150 on the rear....even tho Yamaha figured that is the size it should be.

I chased a front end wobble all over an '06.....tires, swingarm bearings, front wheel bearings, steering head bearings, solid motor mounts, shock combos of all descriptions, and a few dozen other things I can't even remember.....the wobble was greatly reduced but never really disappeared.

My '99 had COO 17" radials with the Metz Z6's and handled like it was on rails!!

I think your odds are better, going to radials, but still isn't an absolute guarantee your bike won't have, or develop, a wobble.
 
Just got my ‘06 at the end of this season. Adding two more lbs (30 up to 32 lbs) to the front tire made a shockingly big difference in the wobble.

Gauge says pretty much zero air pressure in the front shocks but I’ve had time to move the controls to fit the air chuck on there yet.

What should I do over the winter? Progressive front shock thing?

To address the question of the 'BEST' tire.....MetzlerZ6 Interact radials, in my opinion, are the best tire for the V Max. 'Course that means converting to radial wheels, etc. The best bias tire, again this is my opinion....only, is the ME880 Metzler Marathon on the rear and the Metzler ME33 Lasertec on the front. I also believe the front tire should be no larger than a 110 due to the effects of 'rotating mass.' Actually, the rear is goverened by the same law of physics as the front as far as rotating mass but you aren't going to get a v maxxer to put a 150 on the rear....even tho Yamaha figured that is the size it should be.

I chased a front end wobble all over an '06.....tires, swingarm bearings, front wheel bearings, steering head bearings, solid motor mounts, shock combos of all descriptions, and a few dozen other things I can't even remember.....the wobble was greatly reduced but never really disappeared.

My '99 had COO 17" radials with the Metz Z6's and handled like it was on rails!!

I think your odds are better, going to radials, but still isn't an absolute guarantee your bike won't have, or develop, a wobble.
 

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