Front turn signal help

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xring00

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I just bought 4 led turn signals. installed the back to and they work fine. but the front ones are 3 wire and the turn signals i bought are only two wire and i couldnt get them to work... please help
 
You have a few options.
1. Unplug the idiot light in the gauge cluster.
2. Install resistors
3. Install diodes in the circuit. Turn signal will blink fast though. You can correct flash rate with a new flasher from custom dynamics or similar.

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Buy a "Blinker Genie" off the net. Had the same problem and this fixed it with about 5 minutes of wiring it in. Stock lights had 3 wires and led had two. You wire in the 3 wires to the blinker genie and 2 wires coming from it connects to the 2 wires on the led lights. I think it cost about $25.

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I sell a universal relay which helps the blink rate ($25) and a diode kit ($8 though backordered right now) to fix the hazard situation. The problem is the very low resistance of the new LED's. I have tried the resistors fix and still couldn't get it to work right and the above is the normal fix. The downside to the above fix is the loss of the self canceling feature (not a huge deal).

OR, the very easy way to fix it is to wire in the original rear lights in parallel and tuck them under the seat (just the light bulb/socket and not the whole light housing). Tape over the bulb to keep it from breaking and you're in business.
 
In the electrical section of this forum there is a thread that addresses this. Two 50v diodes from radio shack will fix the issue but they'll blink fast, if you want to slow it down you need to put in a different relay. If you don't have a nice soldering iron, get one because electrical work on the VMAX pays off if you do it properly the first time.
 
In the electrical section of this forum there is a thread that addresses this. Two 50v diodes from radio shack will fix the issue but they'll blink fast, if you want to slow it down you need to put in a different relay. If you don't have a nice soldering iron, get one because electrical work on the VMAX pays off if you do it properly the first time.
+1 good advice. They )ABYC) tried to tell us crimp connectors were better than solder on marine applications,and it's a question on the certification exam. I always soldered and covered with shrink tubing. I've seen connectors fail, mostly from a lack of a good crimp tool. But solder is king.
 
I subscribe to the belief that if you're going to use a crimp connector, it's because you expect your work to fail and have no problem doing the work over again repeatedly until you get rid of whatever you were working on
 

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