Gen. 1 suspension observations

[Corrugated]

Hi guys, finally have had a chance to put a few thousand kms on my new to me 2004. I'm starting to realize what / how the suspension and handling is feeling on this bike. It kind of just bounces its way through turns, steering feels heavy and needs lots of muscling around to keep a smooth line. I'm also feeling the effects of the prop shaft loading and unloading when coming on / off the throttle (which can be unsettling at times if thinking about it). I've got history of riding sport bikes (RC51, VFR800, R6) in the past, so I know how these bikes handle and the V-MAX is definitely a different beast for sure. I'm apx 200 lbs and have the suspension set as follows : fork air pressure 7 psi, rear shock preload at 2, dampening at 2, tires at 33 psi front, 36 psi rear, all stock components. Any suggestions on what can be upgraded / changed to help this machine out in the corners? I don't want to go as extreme as inverted forks, but have no problem changing the fork internals and / or rear shocks...

Thanks!

 

[Fire-medic]

Do a search on here for Race-Tech and Progressive Suspension. Either one of those will give lots of options in front fork springs and rear shocks. The search feature in in the upper-right.

Many swear by frame braces, fork braces, delrin or metal engine mount bushings, and stainless steel braided brake lines with front HH composition pads. I'd try adding another 7 psi to the front forks, I'm sure you will immediately see the difference in one ride.

 

[MaxMidnight]

To Mr Medics excellent suggestions I'd add 17" wheels and radial tyres and add emulators to the Racetech set-up.

 

[sdt354]

Once I got the emulators set where I wanted them it was worth the effort. All the other mods made my 89 a pleasure to put into a corner. It was a lot of adjust, take apart, put back together. Don't forget to get fork fluid in spec. I can't say enough good things about Progressive. My 440 rear shocks started to leak after a few years. They gave me a brand new set of 444's at my choice of length, for $0.

 

[Fire-medic]

To Mr Medics excellent suggestions I'd add 17" wheels and radial tyres and add emulators to the Racetech set-up.

As MM suggests get wheels for running radial tires. The use of cartridge emulators he suggests is another good move.

The best mod I know of for Gen. 1's overall is going to radial tires, which for best results requires new wheels in either 17" or 18" and there are lots of posts on these alternatives. Again, the search function is your friend.

I also have cartridge emulators (Race Tech or RICOR's) and they are a great improvement over the stock damping rods. Again, use the search function.

An 18" X 5-1/2' wheel I had made, for sale.



This welded wheel is a 17". I can have these made.

 

[Zeus36]

I would include all of Fire-medic's suggestions and add a steering dampener for those corners. Have you checked the steering head bearings and their adjustment? May want to check your tire balance on both front and rear. How old or worn are the tires? Inspect and repack front/rear axle and swingarm bearings. Have you checked the front to rear wheel alignment?
I run frame braces and a Super Brace between the fork legs - am considering solid engine mounts.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Should have added that once decent fork springs and emulators have been fitted you must take the time to set the static sag or you won't get the best out of your system.
I'd question the need for a steering damper.

 

[Zeus36]

...I'd question the need for a steering damper...

They look cool!

 

[MaxMidnight]

They look cool!

Can't argue with that.

 

[gentsvmax]

Hi guys, finally have had a chance to put a few thousand kms on my new to me 2004. I'm starting to realize what / how the suspension and handling is feeling on this bike. It kind of just bounces its way through turns, steering feels heavy and needs lots of muscling around to keep a smooth line. I'm also feeling the effects of the prop shaft loading and unloading when coming on / off the throttle (which can be unsettling at times if thinking about it). I've got history of riding sport bikes (RC51, VFR800, R6) in the past, so I know how these bikes handle and the V-MAX is definitely a different beast for sure. I'm apx 200 lbs and have the suspension set as follows : fork air pressure 7 psi, rear shock preload at 2, dampening at 2, tires at 33 psi front, 36 psi rear, all stock components. Any suggestions on what can be upgraded / changed to help this machine out in the corners? I don't want to go as extreme as inverted forks, but have no problem changing the fork internals and / or rear shocks...

Thanks!

View attachment 84075

Clean machine! Now tighten her up with some solid motor mounts and weld in frame braces.

 

[Fire-medic]

I wish I had the $ for all these modifications we're demanding he make!

 

[Corrugated]

Clean machine! Now tighten her up with some solid motor mounts and weld in frame braces.

That pic was from back in September when I first got the bike, it was nice and clean for sure, 38,000 kms on it. Got a few thousand kms on it now and my (subtle) mod list is under way! I do love riding this bike, it's a little less hard on the body compared to my last few rides for sure lol!

 

[norcalAF]

Honestly, I would ride the piss out of it and then start making incremental changes. I'm doing fine on my stock 1998, did 3000 miles in a week last summer with stock set up on some squirrelly roads chasing the rest of the pack that are no slouches. I have a set of progressive springs sitting in the garage for the front, I don't know when I'm gonna put them in.

 

[Corrugated]

Honestly, I would ride the piss out of it and then start making incremental changes. I'm doing fine on my stock 1998, did 3000 miles in a week last summer with stock set up on some squirrelly roads chasing the rest of the pack that are no slouches. I have a set of progressive springs sitting in the garage for the front, I don't know when I'm gonna put them in.

Sell me your prog. springs

 

[Woody]

Forget putting ugly frame braces on.
Go with solid motor mounts.

 

[Rollie]

Forget putting ugly frame braces on.
Go with solid motor mounts.

Ugly is in the eye of the beholder.
Frame braces will take the place of solid motor mounts and are a Helluva lot easier to install.

 

[Woody]

Ugly is in the eye of the beholder.
Frame braces will take the place of solid motor mounts and are a Helluva lot easier to install.

But they cost more. And only mask the problem. Of the motor walking in the frame. I would rather fix the problem. Instead of throwing a band aid at it.
Rubber motor mounts get old and wear out. Also heat can break them down. But it's your choice. Next you're gonna tell me . All about vibration issues. well my 85 has no vibration issues after solid mounts.

 

[Ross L]

Probably repeating what others said, radials, wheels, Morley extended swing arm, progressive fronts, couldn’t be more pleased with the handling. No solid mounts, no bracing.

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

Well I have both frame braces and solid mounts. The braces are no band aid. Our frames flex and not just because the motor moves. Load it up in the curves and then give me a call. I recommend both along with radials. You’ll be amazed at what your Vmax can do. Just ask the sportbike crowd at any track day I attend.

 

[Rollie]

But they cost more. And only mask the problem. Of the motor walking in the frame. I would rather fix the problem. Instead of throwing a band aid at it.
Rubber motor mounts get old and wear out. Also heat can break them down. But it's your choice. Next you're gonna tell me . All about vibration issues. well my 85 has no vibration issues after solid mounts.

If you figure any cost at all into the labor of removing all 4 motor mounts , replacing them and then add the cost of them , I believe you'll find the frame braces are cheaper and can even be made by a local machine shop.
I have heard of the issue about vibration from some , not all , who changed the motor mounts.