'General' Questions (in general)

[rlburkholder2010]

From what I read, removing the airbox completely, and using individual air filter seems to take away allot of airflow restriction. Any thoughts on this>?

What are the 'Fracture-split carburized con rods '? I read about them being on the new Vmax.

Can I get the valve tool separately? The one needed to push the buckets down to access the shims.

Where can I get a Haynes or Chiltons book for the vmax?

Ya know, I got the bike running pretty good. I put new NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs in, and checked them a few days later. All (4) are running really clean, almost too clean. Is the bike running too lean?

 

[SpecOps13]

Put individual filters on with no other "Stage 7 Carb Mods" and you will run horrendously lean...

Plugs should be a light golden brown color along with all the other proper indications on the plugs.

I found my manual at the Stealer.

Sean has loaner sets for valve adjustments with the tool. I think you can find the tool separately.

Gen II Rods, good question....

 

[ninjaneer]

+1 wrt indy filters. you cannot simply remove any perceived air restrictors from the intake side and expect improved performance w/o rejetting. Been there, tried that. Matter of fact the favored jet kits, stage 7 and morley muscle kits, have you put in air correctors, which I believe are basically PAJ1 restrictors in of themselves

Ebay has service manuals

Sent from my Tapatalking Hercules Android

 

[one2dmax]

We sell the Clymers and I personally have a couple of OEM manuals (only because I had them before we got the Clymers added to our product lineup).

I am not sure where you read that removing the airbox reduced the restriction? Most of the time you would be correct. BUT, in this case the increased airflow only causes a backup in the exhaust side of the system. You can't expel it any more effeciently without changing it too. AND, slip-ons will not help. Only a full system will do the trick.

In short, don't bother changing the inlet side if you aren't going to change the outlet side. These bikes have been around for many years and pretty much every idea you could think of has been tried. Our Muscle jet kit we feel is the best all around kit available and we still retain a good portion of the airbox (with a modified lid).

The conventional rods are made in two parts. Then mated together using dowels to keep the cap aligned. Finally a bore is applied to the big ends to set the final size. This allows for some resizing to take care of things like spun bearings (though we don't do much of that any more).

The "cracked cap" or "fractured" rods are made in one part. Then with specialized machinery they break the rod apart. This creates a perfectly fitting cap with far more protrusions to perfectly align the cap and maintain that alignment under high stress.

The carborizing is simply adding to the crystalline structure of the rods.

We can get you the tool or as noted you can "sign up" to borrow my valve shim kit. I actually have a few guys needing it right now though I need to get finished up with it myself before it can head out. We can supply you with about any part you'd need like new valve cover gaskets if you want to replace them at the same time (look for cracks in the half moon shaped sections seen on the ends of the covers).

You can't hardly lean these out (naturally aspirated) enough to hurt them. A light golden brown is idea color though as noted.

Sean

 

[PDWeyand]

How offend do you check the plugs for rich / lean burns. Only when you think there is a problem and or when you make adjustments to the carbs? Being that I am new to this bike and really do not have any history with it, should I pull the plugs and check. It had new plugs installed before I got it, less than 500 miles ago.

 

[bazwell]

I got my valve shim tool off ebay, but I don't have access to the kit Sean lends.