Genie/Overhead door Motorcycle remote.

[eatatjoz]

I do garage doors and openers for a living. From time to time, I hack remotes for my customers that have motorcycles. (biker friendly business you know)
I thought some of you may get some use of this, so here it is.

This will focus on the Genie and "Overhead door" brand openers, simply because they use 12vdc batteries and that makes it simple. Liftmaster, sears, and some others use 3vdc batteries, so it requires reducing voltage.

First you're going to need a compatible remote for your opener. Best bet is to get the model off of the back of your remote, and purchase an identical one to save confusion.
Set your new remote per instructions provided using the dip switches, or in the case of code-dodger (overhead) or Intellicode (Genie) press and release the "learn code" button on the back of the opener, and then press your new remote button three times. This should sync the remote, and activate the door. Your remote is now programmed!

Now the fun... Crack that baby open!

 

[eatatjoz]

The stock remote can be opened by removing the visor clip, and removing the screw holding the unit together.

 

[eatatjoz]

Once you've got it apart, solder in a jumper across the pushbutton terminals, and a pair of wires to the positive and negative battery terminals.

 

[eatatjoz]

Now wire it into the spade terminals on your headlight, and put the remote in the headlight bucket to keep it out of the weather. (Mr.Max's bucket is a tight fit, but it will close up with a little effort)

 

[eatatjoz]

This works with the old dip switch style too. The jumper is just in a different place.

 

[eatatjoz]

There you have it folks. No more fumbling around in the tank bag looking for a remote, and it's not hanging on your handle bars waiting to be stolen. Just flash your headlights at the door and whalla... it opens up without taking your hands off of the bars.
It also increases range by providing 14vdc from your scooter, instead of that tiny little 12 volt camera battery.

If you decide to build one, you'll never be without it again!

 

[Dreamster66]

There you have it folks. No more fumbling around in the tank bag looking for a remote, and it's not hanging on your handle bars waiting to be stolen. Just flash your headlights at the door and whalla... it opens up without taking your hands off of the bars.
It also increases range by providing 14vdc from your scooter, instead of that tiny little 12 volt camera battery.

If you decide to build one, you'll never be without it again!

WOW....and I was gonna buy one and get raped for 50.00 or more!
I'm not the best when it comes to electronic devices.
IF......I were to send you a remote, what would you charge to set it up for me? (already programmed for my garage door of course)
btw....you wouldnt really need the whole remote tucked in there would you?
Cause all you are using is the board, right?
One of those keychain remotes would work better I suppose....being alot smaller.
Mine is a 9 dipswitch sears model.... 9 volt battery.

 

[eatatjoz]

I don't really have time to build any, sorry. Do you have any buddies that have a soldering iron? just print this thing out and the pictures. It's pretty straight forward and easy to do.

The case isn't really needed, I just like one extra layer of protection from the elements. You're right though, a keychain remote would work better, I just had the big one handy.

 

[Buster Hymen]

That is a COOL mod and something that I will be doing for next season.
Randy, if you are having problems with the mod, I can help you out. It kind of sucks though that yours takes 9 volts and not 12 as I forget the formula to figure out the resistor size to bump down voltage.

 

[Calimus]

Very goof writeup and great pics to go along with it. I was thinking about doing something like this, but running it off the horn button. Main reason being that I run a lot of back roads and thanks to the deer and smaller critter population, I run the high beam a good bit. Didn't know if that would cause the remote to have a shorter life-span.


Also, I hope this isn't asking too much, but, one of my garage door openers keeps locking up in the up position. It's a liftmaster, and I've tried tightening the chain as well as loosening it, seems that every now and then it forgets it's stoping point and goes beyond it and binds. Is there maybe a repair kit, or should I just replace the whole thing?

 

[Buster Hymen]

Very goof writeup and great pics to go along with it. I was thinking about doing something like this, but running it off the horn button. Main reason being that I run a lot of back roads and thanks to the deer and smaller critter population, I run the high beam a good bit. Didn't know if that would cause the remote to have a shorter life-span.


Also, I hope this isn't asking too much, but, one of my garage door openers keeps locking up in the up position. It's a liftmaster, and I've tried tightening the chain as well as loosening it, seems that every now and then it forgets it's stoping point and goes beyond it and binds. Is there maybe a repair kit, or should I just replace the whole thing?

In this example it is running off the VMax battery so it won't make a difference in battery life.

 

[Dreamster66]

In this example it is running off the VMax battery so it won't make a difference in battery life.

Its stated that in order to NOT convert it, it needs to be 12volt.
Is that 12v as in battery, like mine is a 9v battery, or some other specs?
(never heard of a 12v battery , unless its in a car or bike)

 

[eatatjoz]

Very goof writeup and great pics to go along with it. I was thinking about doing something like this, but running it off the horn button. Main reason being that I run a lot of back roads and thanks to the deer and smaller critter population, I run the high beam a good bit. Didn't know if that would cause the remote to have a shorter life-span.


Also, I hope this isn't asking too much, but, one of my garage door openers keeps locking up in the up position. It's a liftmaster, and I've tried tightening the chain as well as loosening it, seems that every now and then it forgets it's stoping point and goes beyond it and binds. Is there maybe a repair kit, or should I just replace the whole thing?

Putting it on the light doesn't hurt anything. I've had mine on my Seca for two years before it was distroyed by a mini-van, and now it's been on the Vmax for a year and a half. I live in BFE too, and I've never had a problem.
I thought about putting it on the horn at first, but changed my mind because I didn't want to blow the horn and wake my neighbors up at weird hours.

As far as your opener goes, open that guy up and knock the dirt dobbers out of it. You'll see a screw on the bottom of the motor that has two metal strips for the up and down stopping points, and one metal strip that travels up and down the plastic screw. make sure that it doesn't have any corrosion or dirt on it. Liftmasters do drift a little bit because of the way the limits are made, but if they drift more than an inch I've found that it's usually dirt dobbers.

 

[eatatjoz]

Its stated that in order to NOT convert it, it needs to be 12volt.
Is that 12v as in battery, like mine is a 9v battery, or some other specs?
(never heard of a 12v battery , unless its in a car or bike)

You've got an antique there buddy
What you need is a liftmaster 61LM remote. It will be compatible with your opener and will sport a 12 volt battery. Set the dip switches the same as your other remotes and follow the suggestions. Your craftsman is different from the pictures, but the Idea is the same.

 

[Calimus]

Putting it on the light doesn't hurt anything. I've had mine on my Seca for two years before it was distroyed by a mini-van, and now it's been on the Vmax for a year and a half. I live in BFE too, and I've never had a problem.
I thought about putting it on the horn at first, but changed my mind because I didn't want to blow the horn and wake my neighbors up at weird hours.

As far as your opener goes, open that guy up and knock the dirt dobbers out of it. You'll see a screw on the bottom of the motor that has two metal strips for the up and down stopping points, and one metal strip that travels up and down the plastic screw. make sure that it doesn't have any corrosion or dirt on it. Liftmasters do drift a little bit because of the way the limits are made, but if they drift more than an inch I've found that it's usually dirt dobbers.

Thank you sir, I'll crack it open and have a look-see.

 

[Max01red]

So how hard is it do this if you have a liftmaster opener??

 

[eatatjoz]

no biggie for the liftmasters as long as it has a 12 volt battery. 61 62 and 63LM dip switch series and the 81 82 and 83LM smart series have 12 volt batteries. I think that all of the security+ remotes use 3 volt watch batteries though.
I'll see if I can dig one out of my parts bin and have a look see.

If I can find one, I'll build it up for pictures and send it to Dreamster as soon as I can find a spare minute.

 

[Robbarrie]

Great tip ! I just moved to a new place about 6 months ago so I don't have any openers yet. But when I do - I know now what to look for. That is a very cool idea. Thanks

 

[Talon]

Very similar to this mod.

http://www.talonalarms.com/photos/Instructionsdoor.pdf

 

[bmannon]

my remote is a Raynor Safety Signal and takes a 3 volt button battery. Is there a compatable 12 volt remote?