Head Shake question

[rabbidcow55]

Hey guys, I just bought a 98 max, and when I took it out on the road the other day, the handel bars seem to shake like back and forth more than I would like, especially when going over small bumps. I heard that maybe I need to replace the stem bearings or re-pack them. Could it be anything else? Thanks all

 

[mikemax04]

Hey guys, I just bought a 98 max, and when I took it out on the road the other day, the handel bars seem to shake like back and forth more than I would like, especially when going over small bumps. I heard that maybe I need to replace the stem bearings or re-pack them. Could it be anything else? Thanks all

It could be lots of things but mainly the bearings should be greased and re-adjusted. Check them out and if the races aren't grooved/show some wear and the ball bearings are in good shape, you shouldn't need to replace them. Grease, assemble correctly with proper preload and try it out. After putting some miles on, chances are the bearings will have to be adjusted again as the grease settles in.

 

[Robbarrie]

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/vmaxshakes.htm

Here is a link to an article on fixing a headshakes. Worth reading, Hope it helps.
When it comes to my life being on the line, I rather have it looked at by a pro. I don't think I'd do it myself. 50/50 chance of doing it right. I rather pay with cash rather than allot of skin and one scratched up bike.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I've tried every method in the world and assuming there are no compnents damaged I have found that the bearing tension and top nut tension are EXTREMELY sensitive and touchy about how they effect this issue.

I'm sure there are other methods/opinions but I set mine as tight as I can get it till it starts developing a low speed (30-45mph) weave due to inability to "self-correct" and then back it off a little from there.

The "drop" test when I do it gets the very slightest of bounce

It's rock solid all the way to 140 now and you can take your hands of the handlebars at any speed.

A crappy front tire can cause this also.

 

[DanQuin]

When was the last time the forks were serviced? Oil (fork oil) changed?

The V-Max has an air adjustable front suspension, if I remember correct. Is the front fork setup holding air?

Most of the time I've had headshake it's turned out to be different oil levels or other fork related issue.

 

[mikemax04]

Hey guys, I just bought a 98 max, and when I took it out on the road the other day, the handel bars seem to shake like back and forth more than I would like, especially when going over small bumps. I heard that maybe I need to replace the stem bearings or re-pack them. Could it be anything else? Thanks all

I guess your question was never really answered in full. The first thing to check is tire pressure. 40 lbs front and rear is in the ball park. The front wheel bearings should also be checked for looseness and lack of grease. Shaking the tire side to side should not detect any play. If it's not solid, replace the bearings. The forks themselves could have some wear in them and might need attention. Wear in the swingarm and rear wheel bearings will also affect bike stability. Since you mentioned shake when hitting an uneven surface, more than likely it is a bearing issue. A tire that is not balanced right, has high or low spots, has runout and low on air can also contribute to shake.

The writeup at lvlhead by Eric H. has a lot of information in it but in my opinion is too detailed and complicated. The furbur fix does nothing at all and costs $10. Use the rubber washer supplied and re-assemble as it was. If the washer is getting hard, replace with new. Follow the instructions in the manual and make sure the bottom nut never moves while adding the other components. When the top nut gets tightened and compresses the rubber washer so the notches line up for the keeper, that in itself will keep that assembly secure. This is a straight forward and simple procedure and if done correctly will not necessitate a lot of extra wrenching or tools.

 

[Yamaharley Guy]

I just purchased my first Vmax from a buddy and here is my input - he had a windshield on it that was beating the hell out of me at speeds over 55 mph so I removed it. It was connected via the bolts at the top of the forks - I'm a better rider than a mechanic but what I can tell you is that my Max was 'rock-solid' before I took off that windshield and had to re-tighten those bolts (which I have actually re-tightened twice now to no avail). Now I have vicious wobble around 35-40 mph when I'm not firm on both grips (ie-one hand on the bars). I also notice it when going the same speeds around a corner. Since my ride has almost 16k miles, I plan on letting the experts fix the issue along w/ the normal 16k mi service.

 

[shawn kloker]

The low speed wobble can be caused by having the neck bearings too tight.The high speed tank slappers are too loose.

 

[Buster Hymen]

I just purchased my first Vmax from a buddy and here is my input - he had a windshield on it that was beating the hell out of me at speeds over 55 mph so I removed it. It was connected via the bolts at the top of the forks - I'm a better rider than a mechanic but what I can tell you is that my Max was 'rock-solid' before I took off that windshield and had to re-tighten those bolts (which I have actually re-tightened twice now to no avail). Now I have vicious wobble around 35-40 mph when I'm not firm on both grips (ie-one hand on the bars). I also notice it when going the same speeds around a corner. Since my ride has almost 16k miles, I plan on letting the experts fix the issue along w/ the normal 16k mi service.

That's interesting that it happened after you removed the windshield. I don't like any of the windshields that attach to the forks as I found it caused issues. Check what Shawn has suggested as that is probably the problem. NIce list of bikes BTW!:thumbs up:

 

[shawn kloker]

The bearing races could be stop signed and dry of grease.There is a procedure for correctly adjusting these(bounce test).Somebody here probably has a good link to one of the many sites that show this good.I do not. I actually prefer my bearing to be a little tight.I can live with a low speed wobble alot better that a 120mph plus tank slapper.I am also about to put on a stabilizer to be leagal to run in the 10's.

 

[Yamaharley Guy]

That's interesting that it happened after you removed the windshield. I don't like any of the windshields that attach to the forks as I found it caused issues. Check what Shawn has suggested as that is probably the problem. NIce list of bikes BTW!:thumbs up:

So backing off the tension may solve the problem, huh? I may give that a try before handing it off to the experts. I'd imagine those bolts certainly would have torque specs but I don't have a service manual.
And Buster, thanks for the compliment!

 

[maleko89]

Here's the procedure as from the Clymer. I would do this before just backing the ring nuts off. It may be worthwhile to check the condition of your bearings.

- Set torque wrench at right angle to ring nut wrench
- Seat bearing within steering head by tightening the lower ring nut to first stage torque of 36 ft/lbs for 1985-2000 models; 38 ft/lbs for 2001 and up
- Loosen lower ring nut completely
- Tighten lower ring nut to 26.5 inch/lbs
- install rubber washer and upper ring nut with the tapered side of the nut facing down. Tighten the upper ring nut finger-tight. Make sure slots of upper and lower ring nut align. If not, tighten upper ring nut until they do.

 

[shawn kloker]

I prefer the bounce test.You put the bike on the center stand,then gently jack the front end up till the front wheel is just off of the ground.Drop the handle bars to one side then the other.It should fall to each side and bounce once.Too tight will not bounce or fall to the stops,too loose will bounce more than once.
This is only good with greased and good condition bearings and races.This is how I do mine and I have seen Furbur do this in person with the addition of his washer and removal of the rubber washer.
It is very critical!Any one that has had a high speed tank slapper does not want it to happen again!Supposedly if it does happen you do not want to touch any brakes!Some have powered through it or held on and coasted till it came back under control.I never tried powering through it,coasting seemed to work for me.

 

[maleko89]

Good tip, thanks Shawn.

 

[scicluna]

I agree with Shawn, as long as the head bearings are in good condition, no pitting or scoring and greased the bounce method works perfect, I think there is a clip on you tube showing it done on a vmax. After I had changed my head bearings I had some serious tank slapping whenever I eased my grip on the handlebars, it was more so the fact that the front wheel had a major buckle I had missed as I bought it as a wreck! Once the wheel was straightened and the bearings adjusted using the bouce test it steers perfect, good luck hope that helps?

 

[alorio1]

How to set the steering head bearings Yamaha Vmax.avi

one2dmax


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW-CmACI5xQ

 

[one2dmax]

By the way, the reply that resurrected this thread was 4 years old!

 

[Sauron]

Good information never goes out of style.

 

[Barry barker]

So backing off the tension may solve the problem, huh? I may give that a try before handing it off to the experts. I'd imagine those bolts certainly would have torque specs but I don't have a service manual.
And Buster, thanks for the compliment!

I repacked the head bearings on my bike at about 3000 miles it was 2 years old. The bearings were practically dry. Make sure you repack the bearings. i use waterproof grease and now have 41000 miles on my max with 0 wobbles of anykind. I just recently replaced the fork seals and repacked the bearings again. They still look good. It is my opinion the factory did not use adequate or high quality grease on my bike.

i set mine up similar to Rusty, i just eliminate the too tight ride. I use the steel washer or furber fix and see no reason not too. I recently tried to make the rubber washer work, it did for about 100 miles and then I notice a popping in the handle bars. the lower nut had backed off and crushed the rubber washer. I reinstalled the steel washer and started the tightening process. It takes time so do not be in a hurry. You can get the lower nut, washer and jamb nut to a perfect torque then you tighten the top triple clamp nut and the head bearing is now to tight. Back it off just a hair and try again. It takes me se veral times to get it right. i know this goes without saying but make sure you loosen the top triple clamp from the forks before torquing the main nut. I just watched Seans video and he loosens the lower clamp, this is probably better. Great video!

 

[94 V-Max Rider]

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/vmaxshakes.htm

Here is a link to an article on fixing a headshakes. Worth reading, Hope it helps.
When it comes to my life being on the line, I rather have it looked at by a pro. I don't think I'd do it myself. 50/50 chance of doing it right. I rather pay with cash rather than allot of skin and one scratched up bike.

I found that article extremely informative and have followed all of the steps outlined with excellent results. The article emphasizes a holistic approach, which is necessary if you want a good handling motorcycle since everything works in conjunction with one another.

While I don't advocate anybody who lacks the tools and confidence to perform these procedures, a dealer isn't a cut and dried solution. If taking it to a dealer is necessary, I'd have a full understanding of that article and discuss everything with the technician. I worked at a dealership for 11 years, and during that time I saw many 'mechanics' come and go who had no interest in doing jobs properly.