Help! Crazy Electrical problem! Short? who knows...

[spiffious]

Hello all! Just found this forum, but it seems my first post is in desparation: My bike is dead!

Here's what happened:

I was riding along in my '89 v-max when my guages started going nuts,
and the engine started running rough (as if it were almost out of gas)
Then shuts off and I coast to the side of the road. I got the bike
towed home, but the problem remains.

When I turn my key to 'on' the headlight remains off, and the
taillight is off, the neutral light is on. If I turn the turn signal
switch, push the brake lever, or turn on the bright switch, those
lights activate only while those switches are on. As soon as I turn
the kill switch to 'on', the neutral light dims. When I push the
'start' button, the starter relay clicks, but the starter does not
start.

The battery is at full charge, and when I first pulled over, all the
fuses were ok. When I was at the side of the road, someone came by to
help, so we tried bump starting the bike. This actually worked, and
on I went for about a mile, then it happened again. Bump starting
that time did nothing, and now the ingition fuse is blown. When I
first pulled off the road, and removed the seat, it smelled like
sulfur right at the seat area.

Any ideas on what I can do, would be greatly appreciated, this has me
thoroughly flummoxed.


That was over a year ago now: After a busy
year, moving, new career, etc... I have started working on my '89
v-max again.

Basically, Here is what happens now with the bike:
When the key is ON, but the kill switch is off, my neutral light reads
bright as day. The voltage on the kill switch reads ~12v.
When the kill switch is switched ON, the lights dim, and nothing
happens. No v-boost servo movement, no fuel pump, no headlights or
taillights (now disconnected anyway to narrow problem) And no
starting. (Though the starter relay clicks.) I checked the voltage
just across the killswitch, and it reads ~6v or so. In fact, anything
you can measure in the system reads half voltage or less.
When the kill switch is on, sometimes there is a faint humm or buzz
coming from the area of the bike near the front ignition coils or
computer.

---> Does anyone have any clue what I can do? I have checked as
thoroughly as I can visually for any loose connections, worn or
melting wires or looms. I have checked as many grounds as I can find.
I have disconnected the starter motor lead from the starter relay,
and disconnected the spark plug wires from the coils, aswell as all
tail lights and headlight.
No matter what, all voltage drops to less than half as soon as I push
the kill switch ON.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
If I can't figure this out, I am not sure how to know what a good
mechanic would be to take it too in my area (South-central PA)

 

[Buster Hymen]

I suspect there is something wrong with the battery. Without a proper load tester, you can't really properly test a battery. It can show 12 volts but that is without a load on it and it does show how much of a load it can support. The clicking starter makes me believe it is a battery issue.
I wasn't too clear what you were using as your ground reference when you were getting 6V with the kill switch on. If it was at the battery, then I would also check your grounds.
Best place to start though is see if you can borrow a 12V battery and run with that. Also you should post what voltage you are getting at the battery when it is running (assuming you can get it started).

 

[spiffious]

is it really possible for a relatively new sealed cell battery to 'go bad' while riding such that the system voltage would drop and cut my fuel pump?

 

[Buster Hymen]

is it really possible for a relatively new sealed cell battery to 'go bad' while riding such that the system voltage would drop and cut my fuel pump?

Not generally however you mentioned the smell of sulfer, which can mean an over charging battery. That is why I asked for a voltage reading when it is running and at about 4k. There could be 1 or 2 problems creating other problems. Constant over charging can ruin a battery so that it won't hold a charge.

 

[spiffious]

Not generally however you mentioned the smell of sulfer, which can mean an over charging battery. That is why I asked for a voltage reading when it is running and at about 4k. There could be 1 or 2 problems creating other problems. Constant over charging can ruin a battery so that it won't hold a charge.

Gotcha.

As it stands, I haven't been able to start the bike since before the problem last year.

I also have an 05 SV1000s, so I could perhaps try that battery?

Would having a battery tender plugged in have an affect? When it is plugged in, all symptoms remain the same.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Gotcha.

As it stands, I haven't been able to start the bike since before the problem last year.

I also have an 05 SV1000s, so I could perhaps try that battery?

Would having a battery tender plugged in have an affect? When it is plugged in, all symptoms remain the same.

Thanks for the help so far.

Hmm.. crap... my original reply disappeared! Any ways I've attached a few jpgs of the starter circuit. Your part in your post about 6V is rather odd. Point out in the jpgs where you were getting 6V and what your ground reference was.

 

[spiffious]

as soon as the kill switch is ON, *everything* I can measure reads ~6v! It is quite frustrating.

 

[maleko89]

It sounds like 1/2 of your battery cells are dead.

Mark
#1098

 

[spiffious]

Well, I think I'll try another battery today and see how that goes. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[Buster Hymen]

as soon as the kill switch is ON, *everything* I can measure reads ~6v! It is quite frustrating.

When you say kill switch is ON, that means to me that the bike won't start ( and isn't suppose to) as you've opened the starting circuit. Am I reading this wrong?

 

[Buster Hymen]

It sounds like 1/2 of your battery cells are dead.

Mark
#1098

Doubtful, as earlier in his post he was getting 12 volts. I'm trying to figure out the kill switch reference, when he says it is "on".

 

[spiffious]

Doubtful, as earlier in his post he was getting 12 volts. I'm trying to figure out the kill switch reference, when he says it is "on".

What I mean by ON, is that the switch is set to allow the bike to start. kill switch off, I mean that it is set to turn the bike off.

So, in other words, if the kill switch is set to off, which would normally shut the bike off... I read a full 12v on the system.

As soon as it is switched to 'run', the system voltage instantly drops.

 

[4gasem]

What I mean by ON, is that the switch is set to allow the bike to start. kill switch off, I mean that it is set to turn the bike off.

So, in other words, if the kill switch is set to off, which would normally shut the bike off... I read a full 12v on the system.

As soon as it is switched to 'run', the system voltage instantly drops.

Does it instantly go to 12 volts or does it slowly climb? :ummm:

 

[spiffious]

Does it instantly go to 12 volts or does it slowly climb? :ummm:

The volts instantly go to 12 with the kill switch set to stop.. and instantly to ~6v or so when set to run.


Another indicator of this is my neutral light. It is bright with the switch set to stop... and dims instantly when the voltage drop when the switch is set to run.

 

[Buster Hymen]

What I mean by ON, is that the switch is set to allow the bike to start. kill switch off, I mean that it is set to turn the bike off.

So, in other words, if the kill switch is set to off, which would normally shut the bike off... I read a full 12v on the system.

As soon as it is switched to 'run', the system voltage instantly drops.

OK now I understand how you reference the kill switch. First thing I'd do is jump the starter relay with something like a screwdriver to see if the starter spins. If it does we know the relay and battery is good. You said you checked voltage at the kill switch so I assume you had it apart and it is clean and functioning. Next start eliminating parts of the circuit. Start with the easy ones like the sidestand and clutch switch. As you can see from the drawing there is a lot of shit hanging off that circuit. It almost sounds like a partial short that is putting a load on the battery but not enough to blow the fuse.

 

[spiffious]

I've checked the starter relay per manual instructions. (when I thumb the starter, it actually does click)

I also tried jumping the starter... I even took the cable from the starter strait to the battery, and it did NOT turn over.

 

[spiffious]

I found that much of my problems were solved with a new battery.

Now, the bike turns on, and the fuel pump primes, and v-boost servo
goes, and I can start the starter. The motor now turns over!
Here's the new problem:
No spark! No spark on all 4 cylinders.

The other issue: The headlight and taillight remain off at all times,
except the high beam, which works, and the brake lights.. no running
lights though. Turn signals are all ok.
Fuses are all ok.
I can't find any connections that 'seem' wrong.

I tested the ohms for the pickup coil at the 5 prong connector. The
reading is supposed to be ~110. 3 of 4 combinations read ~240!
Visually, I cannot see a problem with the crank case cover removed,
but is this a bad pick up coil? Why are my running lights not working?

This has been thoroughly frustrating. This morning, I was sure I'd
get the bike started today with the new battery, but now I am finding
more problems.

Any help or feedback is appreciated.

 

[spiffious]

She RUNS!! Wahoooo! Yipeeee!


After all the heartache, a dyna 3000 ignition did the trick!

Since the bike has been apart for well over a year, I've got to get things all put back and tucked in, cleaned up, checked out, and ready to go.

I am going to take it to the local gas station later today for some fresh gas.