Help! No more power in accel!

[maxspeed6]

Hi guys, to start please excuse my bad english level

So i have a 2004 max with 52k kms. I have it since 3 years now and it always runs great with a powerfull acceleration.

Since 2 week, i have an issue with my bike. It's intermittent. The bike as no more power (like 50% less power) and it's like it have not enough gas or it's running on 3 cylinders. I changes the plugs ( the old ones has a light grey finish ) and no changes. The problem is intermittent and it seem to be when the bike is warm but when i changed the plugs, the bike was hot, change plugs, and go to a road test with it. I roll like 15-20 kms before the bike restart to bog.
Here is a list of what i have cheked on the bike:

- new plugs
- air filter is clean
- fuel pump seems good
- fuel filter seems clean ( i dont remove it but with a flashlight behing and dont see anything )
- fuel line is good with no kink
- plugs wire are good with no crack
- ohming the 4 ignition coil = 3,4 ohm
- diaphragm on carb is good
- carb seem very clean when i check trough airbox

The bike idling good but sometimes he pops on airbox when i blip the throttle. I check the a/f screw but 2 of the 4 screw is seized in the hole and the head is now stripped. The 2 ones that is ok was at 3 1/2 turn out. I dont know what to do with that, leave it like that or trying to remove that shit to set all 4 screw to 2 1/2 turns out ?

I don't know what to look now to find my problem. I want to do a shotgun clean but i cant remove the a/f screw !!

HELP ME PLEASE !!

 

[Dragmaxster]

There are a lots of ways guys here have of getting those a/f mixture screws out and you are going to have to do that.
I use a dremel with a pointed bit and make a new slotted head for a standard screwdriver. Q-tip and wd-40 to clean it.
Others will be here shortly.
Lightly touch each head or use a temp gun to see which cylinders are firing and how fast they warm up. Usually the coldest is the problem.

 

[Traumahawk]

Yep....I have heard the same thing about cutting a slot into the A/F screw with a dremel.

 

[Dragmaxster]

Take a look at one first to see how deep you can go.

 

[Dragmaxster]

Hi guys, to start please excuse my bad english level

So i have a 2004 max with 52k kms. I have it since 3 years now and it always runs great with a powerfull acceleration.

Since 2 week, i have an issue with my bike. It's intermittent. The bike as no more power (like 50% less power) and it's like it have not enough gas or it's running on 3 cylinders. I changes the plugs ( the old ones has a light grey finish ) and no changes. The problem is intermittent and it seem to be when the bike is warm but when i changed the plugs, the bike was hot, change plugs, and go to a road test with it. I roll like 15-20 kms before the bike restart to bog.
Here is a list of what i have cheked on the bike:

- new plugs
- air filter is clean
- fuel pump seems good
- fuel filter seems clean ( i dont remove it but with a flashlight behing and dont see anything )
- fuel line is good with no kink
- plugs wire are good with no crack
- ohming the 4 ignition coil = 3,4 ohm
- diaphragm on carb is good
- carb seem very clean when i check trough airbox

The bike idling good but sometimes he pops on airbox when i blip the throttle. I check the a/f screw but 2 of the 4 screw is seized in the hole and the head is now stripped. The 2 ones that is ok was at 3 1/2 turn out. I dont know what to do with that, leave it like that or trying to remove that shit to set all 4 screw to 2 1/2 turns out ?

I don't know what to look now to find my problem. I want to do a shotgun clean but i cant remove the a/f screw !!

HELP ME PLEASE !!

Most likely your jets in your jetblock are clogged. If you take the bowls off and clear out the jets there you may be able to solve the problem without messing with the a/f mixture screws but i wouldn't advise it.
Just an alternative.

 

[marsmax85]

Also wouldn't hurt to shoot some pb blaster up in to holes and let sit after making your slits .. good luck

 

[maxspeed6]

Thanks all for the tips ... i dont have dremel but you think that drill a little hole on the screw and insert a hallen key in the hole will do the job ? Or its better to find a dremel ?

And i can do the peashooter / shotgun without screw out the a/f screws ? If not, i will remove the carb off the bike to clean it but it's my last option.
The only thing im not understand is if my jet are clogged, why the problem seem intermittent ?

 

[Hellboy]

I think that you need to find out if it is running on all cylinders. You said it Seems like it. When you start your bike just touch each of the manifolds to check the temp. It is very obvious in the first 30 seconds or so if one is not getting warm. At least then you would know which carby is the culprit if it is a carb issue and may not have to worry at the moment about the stuck A/F screw. I've also found out that it is just as important to check the coil OHMS on the output side as well. Mine is 14000 which I'm told is good. Good luck.

Matt

 

[Dragmaxster]

Thanks all for the tips ... i dont have dremel but you think that drill a little hole on the screw and insert a hallen key in the hole will do the job ? Or its better to find a dremel ?

And i can do the peashooter / shotgun without screw out the a/f screws ? If not, i will remove the carb off the bike to clean it but it's my last option.
The only thing im not understand is if my jet are clogged, why the problem seem intermittent ?

If it sits for a while it gets gummed up.
I can ship you a dremel with the bit attached.

 

[maxspeed6]

Thanks all

Today i cheked the ohming of the secondary of all ignition coil and all is on the spec.

I do the peashooter and the shotgun cleaning technic and put some STP cleaning ( like seafoam ) on the tank with fresh gas and roll it for 35 kms without any bog.

I think that ive found my problem ( i touch a piece of wood now )

If i run all the tank with no issues, thats will be ok
If the problem persist , i will pull out the carb for a total cleaning.

 

[Dragmaxster]

Sounds great- glad it's running better. I hope it stays that way too.

 

[Dragmaxster]

Thanks all for the tips ... i dont have dremel but you think that drill a little hole on the screw and insert a hallen key in the hole will do the job ? Or its better to find a dremel ?

And i can do the peashooter / shotgun without screw out the a/f screws ? If not, i will remove the carb off the bike to clean it but it's my last option.
The only thing im not understand is if my jet are clogged, why the problem seem intermittent ?

There are bits that are called "ease out" or extractor bits that screw into a hole you drill.Then you turn it counter clockwise and they dig into the hole and back it at also.
The reason i use a dremel is to save the screw.
http://www.zoro.com/alden-drillextr...gclid=CKH-iMj1wMcCFQqsaQodreAL5Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[sdt354]

A 1/4" drill bit first, will give you a perfect center. It fits the hole tight. Then you can use the right bit to drill a hole and use your extractor.

 

[maxspeed6]

yes, i will do it in the futur if i need to adjust my a/f ... this adjustment don't effect the mixture in rolling condition, correct ? My adjustment now is 3 1/2 turns out, its far from the 2 1/2 from the service manual but is like that since i have the bike and the bike runs good.

 

[Traumahawk]

Well the A/F screws affect idle A/F from 0 rpms to 4000 rpms at 1/4 of the throttle. So as your running around town, usually your running off of the idle screws.

Every Vmax is slightly different, set the A/F screws where YOUR bike likes them.