Help please! Rear Brake Adapter

[joksi]

I feel the urge to improve the rear brake and found out that a couple of Maxxers have mounted a R1 brake on the rear wheel.

However, I found out that there is an adapter needed to get the R1 (or one of the original front) brakes on the rear wheel.

Since I am located in EC, shipping might be a huge price killer, so could anyone help me out with the step file of this adapter (then I will get it manufactured locally)?

This would be highly appreciated and of great help!

 

[Fire-medic]

Assuming you are using quality brake pads, there really isn't any need to replace the rear caliper. The rear caliper does little to no braking, depending upon how-hard you use the fronts. This is especially true on sportbikes with shorter wheelbases. Cruisers with their longer wheelbases can benefit more from use of the rear brake.

If you upgrade your front brake lines to SS or Teflon lines, and you use something like a brand-name HH composition pad for both calipers, you should be able to modulate the brakes to a point where the rear wheel comes-off the pavement. About the only thing you're using the rear brake for then is to assist in centrifugal motion of the rear wheel, spinning, like the motocrossers do on big jumps.

If you want to switch calipers for the 'wow-factor,' that's something else, and certainly many people are looking for that. I think that you're going to be looking for a non-radial front R1 brake caliper, and pay-attention to the orientation of the hose female port, as you may need a different length hose to make it work.

 

[one2dmax]

We have a variety of upgrades depending on your year of chassis. For the 85-92 forks we suggest our Hayabusa conversion. For the 93-07 we suggest a set of 6 piston sumitomo's. We offer other options for each as well. Even a 4 piston setup for the R1 caliper on the rear though it's not a "must do" upgrade.

***NOTE***, for the 93-07 the R1 is not an upgrade. No increase in leverage (rotor size) or grip (pad surface area.). Many claim they get an upgrade but it's generally because they swapped pad composition which was available with their original calipers. The mono block design of the R1 is not something anyone riding a heavyweight Vmax is ever going to notice.

An example of the Busa setup on a 85-92 fork set with wave rotors and custom wheel.

 

[joksi]

@Fire-medic
many thanks for your reply.
Riding a scoot or a bike are completely different worlds and yes, you are right, I rarely use the rear brake at all.

After upgrading the rims, bearings and shocks rear and front plus the brake lines to SS type I am very happy with the handling of my VMax.
Riding our mountain roads I felt my front brakes started "fading" and it came to the point to slow down my ride since even the use of the rear brake to support my ride made zero sense.
"Wow-factor" hmmm. I am also considering to use one of the front calipers....
I thing I would prefer to have a better rear brake "just in case".

@one2dmax
I appreciate your suggestion, Sean! You guys are wonderful, thanks a lot!

My VMax is '99, so where to find the 6 piston Sumimoto's? Is there any chance to find it locally here in Europe? Could you give me a hint?

 

[Fire-medic]

Auto breakers, FZR1000's just-before the Thunderace (YZF1000 in USA) used that caliper.

Do you know what front brake pads you have?

 

[02GF74]

My VMax is '99, so where to find the 6 piston Sumimoto's? Is there any chance to find it locally here in Europe? Could you give me a hint?

You don't say where in Europe you are but Yamaha YZF 750 had these (UK models at least).

Expect to pay from £ 90 to £ 200 per pair (nice to have a set of pads that if not badly worn could be used). Try to find out/see from photos if there is any corrosion to the pistons, there are 6 of them so would be quite ££££ to replace.

A pair on ebay now: Yamaha YZF750 front brake calipers | eBay

Due to the position and orientation of the inlet on the 6 pot calliper, the brake hoses oughta be 35mm longer than the original ones but they may stretch the distance.

Regarding brake fade, there an a number of causes so before spending money at callipers, first ensure that the braking system is up to scratch: replace the brake fluid and fit new good quality pads, also check disc is not too worn.

 

[joksi]

@02GF74
thank you very much mate. I will look out within EC for exactly those calipers first.

@Fire-medic
my brake pads are "sinter" pads, so the best ones, harder than the standard ones. My idea was, if I have half useable rear brakes could support the subject and release front brakes a bit from the hard work.

 

[Fire-medic]

I believe that it's common for the pads to have inked on the back, what type of composition they are. It's easy to pull the pins, and to remove a pad to check on what you see back-there.

I agree that changing brake fluid is always a good way to proceed, to remove hygroscopic brake fluid containing water and contaminants from your brake or clutch systems. 02GF74 gave you some good advice.

As far as the front pads, light use will glaze the pads, and render them less-effective in function.

 

[joksi]

@Fire-medic
oh I know and really appreciate the hint!

I got my '99 Max last Xmas from my lady as a present and I changed brake lines, pads and all liquids including the brake liquid (this is a MUST here anyway to keep legal standards).

So I think thats all fine so far, I will keep looking and will report once I am happy with the results.

Thanks for all your great help!

 

[02GF74]

Riding our mountain roads I felt my front brakes started "fading" and it came to the point to slow down my ride since even the use of the rear brake to support my ride made zero sense.

I thing I would prefer to have a better rear brake "just in case".

Front brake fade is the problem you are trying to address, I am not convinced replacing the rear calliper by R1 significantly will improve rear braking.

From what I understand and read about brake fade, it occurrs due to pads heating up.

A change of pads is the first and probably cheapest step.

Then look at increasing the mass of the front brakes, more mass takes longer to heat up, the sumitomo are a direct replacement, bar perhaps longer brake lines so simple physics dictates they will take longer to get to the same temperature and start to fade if pad material is identical.

Finally look at getting rid of the heat. Drilled discs will do that and I have seen what appear to be OEM drilled discs. Finally look at fitting larger diameter vented drilled discs. This will need an adapter for the sumitomo callipers and I don't know what motorcycle you would look at to source the discs. Possibly yamaha R1 (320mm vs 298 mm for Vmax).

 

[02GF74]

Sent you message re yamaha 6 pot callipers is EU (Belgium).

 

[wayne billings]

If somoe needs it . ... The part # for a gen 1 gas cap gasket is 4x7-24612-00-00. $12 thru moto sport. Thanks again to all you v maxers