Help vmax fighting me!!!

[1st Shirt Maxer]

The issue is my clutch is still slipping when the bike gets hot. New parts are internals for the master, friction and steels, Barnett conversion, braided line and slave cylinder. I just purchased a reverse bleeder system hooked it up and it would not push ANY fluid. Grabbed a small piece of wire, worked it into the small hole in the master cylinder and still nothing. The only time a reverse flush worked was when I rebuilt the master cylinder. I pushed fluid through then took the bike to the track, no slippage. 3 days later, the clutch started slipping so I tried to push fluid again and no fluid would move. Tore the whole system apart, used compressed air to check the line, nothing. Reassembled from the bottom up, pushed fluid through the slave and line with no problem. Installed the line to the master and was able to push a small amount of fluid then it just stopped. I'm frustrated and confused, the innerspring are sparkling and I'm always using fresh fluid so WTF is going on. Any insight would help.:bang head::ummm:

 

[leroycp]

Might try a small syringe (from a med kit) over the master cyl holes and pull to clear the holes. Grunge does get stuck in there from time to time. New braided line is great. Then Mityvac at the slave until free flow. Air does trap there. I also use a motion pro speed bleeder. Attach and pump the **** out of the handle until satisfied. I finally just replaced the master. When using a barnett I reinstalled full disk for the half and no slip since. Hope this helps

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

Maybe a stupid question but can I drill out the small hole just a bit larger to prevent easy blockage? What would be the downside to this?

 

[HyperPete]

Maybe a stupid question but can I drill out the small hole just a bit larger to prevent easy blockage? What would be the downside to this?

Unless I am mistaken, there is a check ball (spring loaded) in that hole. I believe drilling would destroy the master cylinder.

Once everything is free and flowing properly you should not experience any issues. Flush the brake fluid regularly (every 2 - 3 years I would think should be sufficient) to avoid the buildup of "grunge" which is due to water being absorbed by the brake fluid over time.

 

[dannymax]

I would think Yamaha spec'd that hole size for a reason David....altho I have no idea what that reason might be.

Did you bleed the slave before installing it? I just rebuilt some clutch hydraulics and had good luck with the following:

-Connect the lines but leave the slave off the motor
-Fill the reservoir
-Connect the mighty-vac to the slave bleeder and open bleeder
-Give a couple pumps to the mighty vac and wait for fluid to start moving (takes awhile sometimes)
-Keep reservoir full
-After an inch or so of fluid is in the Mighty-vac bottle slowly compress the slave from the back (this will push fluid backward so watch for overflow)
-When slave piston is fully compressed close bleeder
-Remove Mighty-vac and connect slave to motor

It's a pain in the *** getting the slave back in place with the line connected, but the whole procedure seems to work well.

 

[one2dmax]

Make sure the reservoir is not over filled. This can cause pressure on the slave (like you are pulling the lever) as the fluid heats up and expands. There needs to be some air above the fluid in the reservoir to allow for this.

 

[johnblaid]

Always the Smart ***...But a VMax owner non the less, I recommend shooting the engine with a minimum Smith and Wesson 500 express enough times that it will not run. This will solve the need for a clutch. I often dream of owning such a weapon so I can shoot mine.

Failing that, Don't drill out any holes. I think the clutch slave is the most difficult to rebuild and pre bleeding before reinstallation is a must. Take heart and keep trying until you can afford a Hayabusa.

 

[donnelly317]

Did you replace your levers by any chance? Check the pivot point of your clutch lever. This happened to me last year. It was binding up not allowing to to fully going back

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[CrackerRican]

The issue is my clutch is still slipping when the bike gets hot. New parts are internals for the master, friction and steels, Barnett conversion, braided line and slave cylinder. I just purchased a reverse bleeder system hooked it up and it would not push ANY fluid. Grabbed a small piece of wire, worked it into the small hole in the master cylinder and still nothing. The only time a reverse flush worked was when I rebuilt the master cylinder. I pushed fluid through then took the bike to the track, no slippage. 3 days later, the clutch started slipping so I tried to push fluid again and no fluid would move. Tore the whole system apart, used compressed air to check the line, nothing. Reassembled from the bottom up, pushed fluid through the slave and line with no problem. Installed the line to the master and was able to push a small amount of fluid then it just stopped. I'm frustrated and confused, the innerspring are sparkling and I'm always using fresh fluid so WTF is going on. Any insight would help.:bang head::ummm:

What kind of motor oil are you using, if using synthetic , sometimes it will cause clutch slippage in the Max, try the Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil it has the added zinc our wet clutch needs.

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

I'll be out working on the clutch today so will try a couple of things. As for the oil, I am using Royal Purple motorcycle oil. I'm limited on the island and haven't found anyone carrying Rotella yet, still looking. Thanks for all the advice and I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[johnblaid]

your oil is probably your problem. I wrecked a clutch when I first bought mine. Now I have a new clutch and use nothing but Rotella T non-synthetic. Change it every 1000 miles.

 

[one2dmax]

It doesn't need changed nearly that often!

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

Well, I'm gonna say that I found the problem with the reverse bleeding problem. I started tearing into the master cylinder and notice the pushrod had a gouge cut into the side of it. Once I removed the lever, I was able to push fluid from the bottom easily. Now I'm trying to figure out why this lever is causing so many problems. I'm going to switch back to stock for now.

 

[huskyman510]

Oh man I hear ya, last night I spent a good hour re-building my master and my slave with all new parts, all back together then spent 3 hours bleeding pumping reverse bleeding(which wouldnt pump) etc and still no pressure at all, sooooo frustrating doing this clutch.
I then noticed fluid coming out from where lever pushrod is because I think I pumped it 5000 times?? dont know whats goin on there as it has all new seals.
A step by step would be great from any very experienced clutch bleeders out there.
Should you pre-prime master before connected line?
fill lines before installing slave and master?
Is there something I havent tried?
To the shed to go try everything again.........................................

 

[huskyman510]

DELETE last post..... After fighting with my clutch bleeding proceedure for years I have finnally solved all issues. I feel stupid but please take note newbies and hopefully no one will do the things I have been through.
If re=building or checking master and slave cylnders.
1)make sure lines are clear and free from muck
2)Install everything double checking the pin hole in mc closest to speedo is clear(if not use guitar string/pin etc)
Very important(this is where I was always got it wrong) Remove lever so piston comes out to its stop
3)crack the bleeder screw to slave and connect clear hose about 2ft in length
4)get a syringe full of fluid and start to pump through
Careful when it gets to Master as it will squirt into the air out of that pin hole and land where you dont want it too.
Continue until you see no air bubbles and master is half full or a little under (when fitting back gasket and top this will bring it to almost full and allowing some air in there for expansion of fluid)
5)tighten bleeder screw with hose still connected
6) Re-fit top and lever and bingo there she is, doesnt even need to be pumped up!
Happy riding

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

Amen on removing your lever to reverse bleed. I stumbled on that little bit of info and at the same time found out that my lever was screwing everything up. Yesterday I took my Dremel and an angle grinder to my lever to fix a few issues. Haven't had a chance to take it out to see if I fixed the issue but it does fit better. I have been fighting my issues since last August and I hope I have finally solved it. Only time will tell.

 

[huskyman510]

Amen on removing your lever to reverse bleed. I stumbled on that little bit of info and at the same time found out that my lever was screwing everything up. Yesterday I took my Dremel and an angle grinder to my lever to fix a few issues. Haven't had a chance to take it out to see if I fixed the issue but it does fit better. I have been fighting my issues since last August and I hope I have finally solved it. Only time will tell.

Yes a big AMEN, that little piece of advice from sean not topping up your res I think will work, as mine too used to work fine until hot then almost start to slip 20 min into ride. havent test run it yet but it totally make sense!

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

After fighting with a slipping clutch for months I finally had the money and time to rebuild the entire clutch. My only question is this: is there any reason it can't grind down the pushrod in the mc just enough so that when the clutch is disengaged, there is no pressure on the pushrod? I found out while trying to reverse bleed the clutch that the lever exerts a small amount of pressure on the pushrod. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


David Justiss
USAF First Sergeant
554 RED HORSE Sq, Guam

 

[jfeagins]

IMHO, Don't do it. The OEM set up works well, and AS INTENDED. If your clutch is different, then something has been re-assemble incorrectly and you need to fix the error rather than modify from OEM.

 

[fmcandrew]

With regards tp bleading...I've always had good luck with my Mighty-Vac...