Hid relay question

[VMAX1260]

Hello Guy's after 3 years customizing again inside outmy bike i am installing all the wiring now and stuff. on my bike i have a Hid kit 8000k one ballast for Low beam And one for High. on my bike i also have aftermarket horn which needs a relay to work. my mechanic installed 2 relays one for the hid and one for the horn. i mannaged to connect the horn but i have a porblem with the Hid light.
so listen what whats bothering me.
V-max has always the lights on. i had a switch that my mechanic placed so wherever i want i could switch off my Hid lights. i cant figure out how my mechanic with one relay could trigger both beams from oem switch as the relay has only one trigger input and how he could cut off both beams with one switch. i know you could cut off the both beams if he had connected the ground with switch so the switch basicaly dissambled the relay since it had no ground but is this safe. if i install +1 relay and if the switch connected to the ground (so you can cut off the ground from the ciruit) is not safe how can i mannage with one switch and properly connected ( relay directly connected to ground without switch interfering) oem low beam wire triggering one relay and oem high beam wire triggering the other to be cut off with one switch. is it safer to connect the switch to the ground or between the fuse that goes to the 30 (input of the relay directly from the battery) and the + pole of the battery. so if you are confused is it safe to connect + from the battery then switch the fuse the to the 30 of the relay or just connect the ground of both relays to the switch and then to the ground ?? Thank you for your time

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Wow, I think my skull just exploded!

My setup is not stock, but if I remember correctly there are three wires on the stock setup going to the light bulb.
Permanent positive
Switched Negative for low
Switched Negative for high

Putting a single contact relay on the side that has the permanent source, positive, would kill both beams at once.

Don't know why anyone would need a relay to do that tho, they make toggles that will handle the current.

As for the rest of your question I have no clue, my head hurts just reading it...... ; )

When you get into some aftermarket units it gets weird, my setup uses the case ground on the bulb housing as one source, forcing me to use a relay to convert the original switched negative to a switched positive,
Plus I needed a relay anyway cause I'm running 2-100 watt bulbs, too much for the stock wiring.

 

[VMAX1260]

Wow, I think my skull just exploded!

My setup is not stock, but if I remember correctly there are three wires on the stock setup going to the light bulb.
Permanent positive
Switched Negative for low
Switched Negative for high

Putting a single contact relay on the side that has the permanent source, positive, would kill both beams at once.

Don't know why anyone would need a relay to do that tho, they make toggles that will handle the current.

As for the rest of your question I have no clue, my head hurts just reading it...... ; )

When you get into some aftermarket units it gets weird, my setup uses the case ground on the bulb housing as one source, forcing me to use a relay to convert the original switched negative to a switched positive,
Plus I needed a relay anyway cause I'm running 2-100 watt bulbs, too much for the stock wiring.

Rusty you just opened my eyes. Did i understand correctly the 2 wires for high and low beam is ground ones ???? if yes i definetely know what to do. i thought you had one ground and the 2 wires for the beams had 12v. Please replay am i correct the 2 wires are ground ?

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Rusty you just opened my eyes. Did i understand correctly the 2 wires for high and low beam is ground ones ???? if yes i definetely know what to do. i thought you had one ground and the 2 wires for the beams had 12v. Please replay am i correct the 2 wires are ground ?

Don't trust my memory in this. Either get a voltmeter and test it at the plug into the headlight, or go to the sticky in electrical that has the wiring diagram

But yes if I remember correctly that is the case.

Many automotive applications "switch" the negative and not the positive.

 

[Miles Long]

Rusty you just opened my eyes. Did i understand correctly the 2 wires for high and low beam is ground ones ???? if yes i definetely know what to do. i thought you had one ground and the 2 wires for the beams had 12v. Please replay am i correct the 2 wires are ground ?

With the deepest respect for Rusty's electrical expertise, is this case he is incorrect. Both high and low feeds are switched positives.
When I originally thought that a headlight override switch would be a good idea (during the daytime, I usually just use 2x55 watt driving lights, which I am told are much more noticeable than the single headlight), I switched the common ground for both high and low beams. This certainly worked, but had an annoying side effect - the high beam gauge light would remain on, regardless of dimmer switch position (can someone explain THAT one?) Anyway, I eventually re-modded, to just switching the low-beam positive (green) wire.
This is also the safest way to go, if you overide the headlight, because the high beam is still always available, just by flicking the dimmer switch to "high"-no need to fumble with a toggle switch.
So in my case, if I am using just the runners, I can get a comatose, distracted, drunk or just plain dumb driver's attention by blasting him/her with the high beam.
Cheers!

 

[Rusty McNeil]

With the deepest respect for Rusty's electrical expertise, is this case he is incorrect. Both high and low feeds are switched positives.
When I originally thought that a headlight override switch would be a good idea (during the daytime, I usually just use 2x55 watt driving lights, which I am told are much more noticeable than the single headlight), I switched the common ground for both high and low beams. This certainly worked, but had an annoying side effect - the high beam gauge light would remain on, regardless of dimmer switch position (can someone explain THAT one?) Anyway, I eventually re-modded, to just switching the low-beam positive (green) wire.
This is also the safest way to go, if you overide the headlight, because the high beam is still always available, just by flicking the dimmer switch to "high"-no need to fumble with a toggle switch.
So in my case, if I am using just the runners, I can get a comatose, distracted, drunk or just plain dumb driver's attention by blasting him/her with the high beam.
Cheers!

Thanks Miles,
That's why I said don't trust my memory, go find the wiring diagram.

I've have the same issue you described with the high beam indicator light as well.
I may try your method when I get a chance.

 

[Diablotin]

I use the existing high beam switch and added a switch on the low beam. Both power separated fused relays with a diode between high and low beam. It allows to power or not the low or high beam separately or at the same time.
Both circuits are fused separately that way if one fuse blows I still keep the other beam.
I may have a diagram somewhere if someone needs it.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[VMAX1260]

after many hours reading and searchingand testing ... both wire have 12v when hot. i will use 2 relays with fuses for each relay. i will use one switch which i will connect the ground both relays. so when i have my switch off there will be no ground in the circuit so both relays wont turn on. i will still have my oem hi lo beam swith for changing the beams.

 

[VMAX1260]

color wiring diagram if anyone is interested.