How did you setup your clutch lever?

[Kronx]

Still considering myself a newb to VMax and still considering myself rusty on the riding, I've really been trying to nail down the perfect shift on my VMax. It's definitely gotten better since I first bought my VMax. I've progressed from a clunk to a nice snick. But I want better.

So this morning coming into work I wondered if maybe I should adjust the clutch lever. As it is right now, there's a LOT of play in it when it's out. As such, the friction zone is pretty much from the handgrip to about a 1/4 inch out I suppose. The rest is a dead zone. I've got rather large hands....my riding gloves are a 3XL. I was thinking maybe I should adjust the clutch cable so that the friction zone starts a bit sooner rather than a full squeeze all the way to the handgrip. I'm also going to look at perhaps adjusting the shift lever as well.

Thoughts/suggestions? How did you set yours up for you?

 

[Hellion]

The clutch is hydraulic and has no adjustment. There is a way to take some of the play out of the lever with a bearing in the lever and a sleeve on the pivot bolt. Sean Morley was offering this at one time.

 

[DMAN999]

It sounds like you need to bleed the clutch line and check the master to be sure it's working properly and the return hole isn't plugged up.
Mine begins engaging about 1/2 way to the grip from fully out.

 

[MaxMidnight]

.....maybe I should adjust the clutch cable.... Thoughts/suggestions?

A bit of bad news for you....it is a hydraulic system so there is no adjustment.

What to do:
If it hasn't been done change the fluid and when bled, tie the lever back overnight.

If there is excessive 'slop' in the pivot you could re-bush or insert a needle bearing - see attached PDF.

The other area of slop will be in the fear change linkage. This can be modified with rose joints rather than the OE ball joints.

In addition replace washer that sits behind the pivot circlip and make one of an appropriate thickness to remove axial movement.

 

[Fire-medic]

A bit of bad news for you....it is a hydraulic system so there is no adjustment.

What to do:
If it hasn't been done change the fluid and when bled, tie the lever back overnight.

If there is excessive 'slop' in the pivot you could re-bush or insert a needle bearing - see attached PDF.

The other area of slop will be in the fear change linkage. This can be modified with rose joints rather than the OE ball joints.

In addition replace washer that sits behind the pivot circlip and make one of an appropriate thickness to remove axial movement.

Wow, heim-joints for the shifter! I had thought about doing that 'when I get the time,' but life, family, and work have gotten in the way...:biglaugh:

If people changed their fluid in the hydraulic systems before stopping riding for the season, the bikes should be ready to go when the snow melts the next year.

Mityvac for the front & rear brakes (suck)

Syringe for the clutch slave cylinder (blow):biglaugh:

I am frequently experiencing "fear change" problems, and it usually happens after 8000 RPM!:rofl_200:

 

[Kronx]

Thanks for the advice folks. I went out to check the bike on my lunch break and checked the master and it looks empty. So now I need to find out where the leak is along with changing whatever fluid is left and bleeding.

Edit: Did a little more Google-Fu(really wish I had my Clymers here at work with me)... I read my symptoms could also indicate a slave cylinder needing to be rebuilt?

 

[jfeagins]

Was the clutch master ever full to begin with? Can you see where any fluid is leaking out and/or hitting the ground under your bike? There's not a lot of places your clutch can be leaking into unnoticed. It may be that the last person servicing the clutch fluid simply didn't fill it enough, and all you need do now is change it again and top it off correctly this time.

 

[Fire-medic]

If you had a dry reservoir you need to fill it a bit and then push fluid UP from the slave bleeder. That is the syringe's shining moment. No needle required. Just use a short piece of clear plastic tubing on the spout of the syringe & attach the other end to the slave bleeder nipple. PUSH fluid into the master cyl and air will move up w/the fluid. You should get a firm lever quickly after you 'fan' the lever repeatedly to purge the last remaining air. Do a search or look at the How-To directions.

If the tiny hole in the floor of the master cyl closest to the banjo bolt is plugged w/sediment, you will never get a bled cyl nor a proper lever.

 

[Ost85vmax]

What does tying the lever back over night accomplish? I have herd this before. Is it just help completely bleed it out?

 

[one2dmax]

Helps air get past the piston/valve in the master. I do still have some of the bearing/bolt mods needed to remove play from the lever (if it's sloppy) and roll smoother.

 

[Kronx]

Well upon a closer inspection... not that it does much good because I don't really know what I'm looking at/for... I think I got more serious problems. I just don't know what the eff to look for or even begin, but something is leaking. That's for sure.

 

[davesax36]

Post pics. We'll figure it out.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4

 

[Kronx]

I'll do one better. Did a small video.

http://youtu.be/1qwjKAxNyMc

 

[sdt354]

Looks like engine oil from the valve cover gaskets is leaking down. Time to change the gaskets and check the valve lash while the covers are off. This is something you can do yourself with our help and it's important. The DD clutch mod (also something you can do) gives me the perfect lever action I want. The release is all in the beginning of the lever pull.
Steve-o

 

[MaxMidnight]

The cracks in the cam cover half moons would only be critical if they go through to the other side of the rubber.

Have a gentle probe with a feeler blade to try and establish how deep they go. If there isn't any obvious sign of oil leaking from there then I would be inclined to leave alone until (or if) a problem develops.

The lack of fluid in the clutch master cylinder and 'oil' around where the rigid tube from the slave cylinder goes into the flexible portion could be related.
Remove the hose from the supporting clip and check the tightness of the nut that threads into the flexi-hose.
If it is tight then thoroughly clean around that area and dust with talc. Work the clutch and see if any fluid leaks - you should see signs of this on the talc. If OK go for a ride with frequent stops to see where the fluid is coming from.

 

[sdt354]

Do them both at once. Don't wait till oil gushes. There is plenty under there.
Steve-o

 

[1SK14R]

The clutch is hydraulic and has no adjustment. There is a way to take some of the play out of the lever with a bearing in the lever and a sleeve on the pivot bolt. Sean Morley was offering this at one time.

Hello, I have a 95 Vmax , And when you put it in gear you can feel it trying to engage the bike forward.
Have bleed 3x’s but to no avail.
And because of this I’m thinking that’s the cause for when I down shift , it’s hard to .
Only when in lower RPM and at a crawl you can go back to first.

 

[Fire-medic]

Yeah, I bet your issue is still an incomplete bleeding. The clutch needs a complete bleed, where the resistance happens quickly in the lever pull. Have you tried the reverse-bleed?

You may need a master cyl rebuild if a reverse-bleed doesn't fix it. The piston in the master cyl could be bleeding internally, allowing fluid to bypass the piston. A sign of this is after bleeding the system, the lever works OK for the first couple of pulls, then develops an increasing amount of free-play.

The resistance in being able to downshift is a sign of lack of proper clutch release. Three causes:

Leaking slave cyl
Leaking master cyl
Loss of adequate bleed function

Thread for the process used for bleeding all 3 VMax hydraulic systems. Learn how to make an inexpensive reverse-bleed tool with parts from your local supermarket (!) and the auto parts store. How to replace the clutch slave cylinder.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/

 

[1SK14R]

Yeah, I bet your issue is still an incomplete bleeding. The clutch needs a complete bleed, where the resistance happens quickly in the lever pull. Have you tried the reverse-bleed?

You may need a master cyl rebuild if a reverse-bleed doesn't fix it. The piston in the master cyl could be bleeding internally, allowing fluid to bypass the piston. A sign of this is after bleeding the system, the lever works OK for the first couple of pulls, then develops an increasing amount of free-play.

Ashamed to say , but could you explain reverse bleed . I understand the concept. But how do you do that .

 

[gentsvmax]

The clutch is hydraulic and has no adjustment. There is a way to take some of the play out of the lever with a bearing in the lever and a sleeve on the pivot bolt. Sean Morley was offering this at one time.

Here it is, the press fit bearing and shoulder bolt.
I did both lever's years ago and there still no wobble.