Hey guys I went and did my pre-season maintenance.i went to change my oil and filter,When i tried to get the OEM filter off of my bike I had to use a pipe wrench to get it off and I mean just cranking on it hardcore!!!So I put the new one on which was a WIX it screwed on easy enough.I didn't buy the right filter wrench for the filter.My questions are how tight should be?And what size or filter wrench and what type of wrench do you guys use?I got the filter on pretty tight and it's Leaking like a S.O.B.The last oil change was done by the Yamaha Techs at my local Yamaha shop.Any help you guys could give me would be appreciated!!!!!!!!
How tight for oil filter???HELP!!!!!
- Thread starter trentsee
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I just put mine on hand tight.......after wetting the new o-ring on the filter with some fresh oil......no leaks......:confused2:
As for a filter wrench.....I have one that kinda looks like a deformed set of slip joint pliers.....works pretty good....
Thanks guys I did put oil on the O ring and tried the hand tight thing No go!!!I'm gonna buy a new filter and the right wrench.Like I said the one that was on there was on SUPER TIGHT!!!!I'll just have to try it again I guess!!
Rhoy Carter
Well-Known Member
there are some filters that are not deep enough to let the rubber gasket seal you might want to look at that
eatatjoz
Well-Known Member
Make sure you don't have two "o" rings on there.
The old one may have gotten stuck to the mating surface, and now you have two.
The old one may have gotten stuck to the mating surface, and now you have two.
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RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
Just hand tight. Like maybe half a turn after the seal bottoms. There's absolutely no reason to crank on it....just makes getting it off later harder.
Been doing just barely hand tight on all the family cars(and my truck) for years and never had one leak, plus they crank off with one hand 5000 miles later.
Been doing just barely hand tight on all the family cars(and my truck) for years and never had one leak, plus they crank off with one hand 5000 miles later.
Nicki66
Well-Known Member
Trentsee, I wanted to offer my advice, but every time I tried to read what your problem was, I was drawn back to your avatar and was entranced in it. The words to your post seemed to disappear.
What filter did you get? When you screw it on does it feel like it's bottoming out on metal or rubber? Sure sounds like it's not the right filter.
Man, I can't agree more Kevin....there are some of the most incredible avatars EVER...right here on the VMF!! One guy actually has an unshaven pussy for his!!!
HEY, that's me!! :rofl_200:
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Kitty, Kitty!
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06VMAXIMUS
Well-Known Member
Danny, that's Classic!! LMAO Back to topic, usually oil filters go 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket touches engine, which ends up being hand tight. Like eatatjoes stated, check for extra leftover gasket, you might have 2 on there.
How can anyone not love cats....eh? :drool:
Yes, sorry....got distracted! There are filters that are one number different, or have one add'l. number (can't remember which), they look almost identicle to the proper filter, but the well isn't deep enough and will bottom out on the motor. It's easy to tell because the filter just stops threading on, like metal to metal....there is no further turning to be done.
Shouldn't need a filter wrench to install the filter either....twist by hand.
Yes, sorry....got distracted! There are filters that are one number different, or have one add'l. number (can't remember which), they look almost identicle to the proper filter, but the well isn't deep enough and will bottom out on the motor. It's easy to tell because the filter just stops threading on, like metal to metal....there is no further turning to be done.
Shouldn't need a filter wrench to install the filter either....twist by hand.
tugla
Well-Known Member
last time i had i kitty like that help with my oil chg there was no chain around her neck....... maybe next time :rofl_200:
John R
Well-Known Member
If you tighten it too much, the o-ring could get disformed and cause the filter to leak like no tomorrow. To test it, loosen the filter briefly (yes, you willm get some oil spillage) and then tighten it again with one hand. Replace oil and start it up. If it still leaks, remove oil filter and start over by first checking to make sure you have the right filter and, if so, then check the o-ring for damage, missing or, as discussed above, multiple o-rings.
vmx1200
Member
I do no know where dealerships get their torque specs form but every bike I bought form a dealership I had to use a breaker bar to remove the drain plug and filter..:confused2:
I like the K&N filter with the 17mm nut welded on the end, it makes everything just that much easier..
unk:Thanks for all the info guys!!!But I got it sorted!!I went and bought the OEM filter(Got ASS raped!!!)but it screwed on like a dream hand tight no problems at all.The filter I was reccommended to use was the WIX 51356.Guess what it doesn't fit!!!Oh well live and learn I guess!!Thanks again guys!!!
Close Trentsee, it's that one number I was talking about!!
WIX # 51358....that's the WIX # you want, or
Fram # 6017A
K & N # 303
ps....another great avatar btw!!!
vmax626
Well-Known Member
Don`t fram filters have a problem with shedding fiber into the oil ???:ummm:
I never use Fram on anything anymore , I think that Bosch and Mobile one are the best.:biglaugh::biglaugh:
<<Dave>>unk:
I never use Fram on anything anymore , I think that Bosch and Mobile one are the best.:biglaugh::biglaugh:
<<Dave>>
unk:
Nicki66
Well-Known Member
I do like the Bosch filter 3323, it is readily available and only $7
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