How to change your water pump seals

[donnelly317]

Well I had coolant seaping from the wheep hole on my water pump. Couldnt find anything on how to change the seals on here so I took a bunch of pictures while doing it. It was really easy everything was in the manual just not the greatest for pictures. Hope this helps some of you guys out. Sorry some of the pictures were a little blurry.

These are the parts you will need ( Thank you sdt354 )
I ordered everthing threw http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.asp
It was easy enough to just copy and paste P/N's instead of looking at a fiche.

PRODUCT INFORMATION:

Mfg Product Number: 93306-00004-00 (Koyo 6000)
Description: BEARING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 93101-10090-00
Description: OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 11H-12438-10-00
Description: SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 93211-16591-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 214-11198-01-00
Description: GASKET for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 3JP-12449-02-00
Description: GASKET,WATER PUMP for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 93210-27778-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 2










Drain the coolant out of main system

• Remove Faux cover
• Remove Right scoop
• Remove coolant cap behind right scoop

Align the coolant drain valve to the "on" turn to the left till you feel it click now your ready to drain.


Remove the drain plug underneat water pump. Make sure you have a catcher there because it will poor out of there. I made a slight mess :bang head:


Once she is all drained out you want to remove the water pump assembly remove these allen bolts. I found it easier to remove the cover then the pump assembly. It wont just fall off you gotta work it off. It will come loose just the gasket holdng it on there.






These three pictures are what it will look like once you get the assembly off


These are the tools I used to disassemble the pump


First remove the snap ring on gear side then remove the gear and the locking pin from Impeller shaft


After that there is another snap ring to remove then you can pull out the impeller and shaft. Giving you acess to the seals and bearing.


After the impeller is removed I was able to pull out the rubber mechanical seal and didnt realize there was an outside metal piece around this seal thats "tightly fit" into the housing. So no need to remove that rubber like I did youll be able to tap it out together as one piece.

I used an aluminum punch to tap out the bearing in the direction of the picture above. Cam out pritty easy. after that is removed you can remove the black rubber seal from behind the bearing with a hook pick.

Once you get the bearing and the black rubber seal from behind the bearing out you can flip housing over and use the punch to tap out the mechanical seal.


You will end up with these pieces :biglaugh:


This is just a picture with everything removed. this is a good point to scrap off any gasket left on the assembly from the crankcase if ther is any. Remember do not do not use a screw driver you will gouge the surface and it will effect the sealing. Use a plastic or fenolic scraper


Now get the new mechanical seal out. I used a 1" socket to tap it into place with the mallet. You can use a vise or C-clamp if you prefer but just tap it in as even as possible.


Once the seal is in place it will look like this :clapping:


then install the new seal underneath bearing then tap bearing into place with mallet. A socket will probably work well for this also I did not use one.


Last seal is on the impeller shaft. Use a small flat head to pry it out and then install new seal.






Its all pritty strait forward but here is a few tips

• use Clean antifreeze to lubricate new seals
• When your removing seals take note of direction the seals are
• After removing snap rings you may need to use pliers to squeeze them back. mine stayed expanded

Now youll want to remove whatever is left of the gasket on the crankcase try your HARDEST not to let pieces fall into crankcase or coolant passages. Install new oring's on the 90* tube then install new gasket and pump assembly with the 90* tube on the assembly before you install it on the crankcase.

Torque bolts 7.2Ft lbs
Install drain plug with new gasket
Turn drain valve off
Start engine and pour antifreeze into cap until full

Thats it hope this helps atleast one person out!

 

[donnelly317]

Someone please tell me the pictures are showing! because there not on my computer



FIXED IT!

 

[ouchez]

Donnely,

Award request for you!!

That was great, Thank you, very nice of you to take the time to help others.

O

 

[alorio1]

Very good info and well written with detailed pics. I think this procedure should be turned into a stickey. An award should be in order also, you would certainly have my vote.........

 

[donnelly317]

Thanks guys!

 

[sdt354]

Great job. +1 on the vote here too.
Steve-o

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Good one!... Congrats

 

[Barry barker]

Better late than never, thanks for the guide. I need to replace the seals in my pump now, its leaking. Looks pretty easy. I am wondering if the Bearing can be salvaged if removed carefully?

 

[one2dmax]

The bearing is going bad and why it's leaking.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Great Job !

 

[Rand-5107]

I've been planning to do this. So thanks from me too.

 

[Barry barker]

The bearing is going bad and why it's leaking.

Sean, Thanks for getting my parts in the mail post hast, honestly you knew i needed the parts about 10 minutes after I notice the pump was leaking. In my book that should be plenty of time. LOL Hopefully this will be the last maintenance issue i will have before the Texas rally in less than 2 weeks. Looking forward to riding with you in Eureka.

 

[94 V-Max Rider]

Well I had coolant seaping from the wheep hole on my water pump. Couldnt find anything on how to change the seals on here so I took a bunch of pictures while doing it. It was really easy everything was in the manual just not the greatest for pictures. Hope this helps some of you guys out. Sorry some of the pictures were a little blurry.

These are the parts you will need ( Thank you sdt354 )
I ordered everthing threw http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.asp
It was easy enough to just copy and paste P/N's instead of looking at a fiche.

PRODUCT INFORMATION:

Mfg Product Number: 93306-00004-00 (Koyo 6000)
Description: BEARING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 93101-10090-00
Description: OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 11H-12438-10-00
Description: SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 93211-16591-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 214-11198-01-00
Description: GASKET for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 3JP-12449-02-00
Description: GASKET,WATER PUMP for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1

Mfg Product Number: 93210-27778-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 2










Drain the coolant out of main system

• Remove Faux cover
• Remove Right scoop
• Remove coolant cap behind right scoop

View attachment 30928
Align the coolant drain valve to the "on" turn to the left till you feel it click now your ready to drain.

View attachment 30929
Remove the drain plug underneat water pump. Make sure you have a catcher there because it will poor out of there. I made a slight mess :bang head:

View attachment 30930
Once she is all drained out you want to remove the water pump assembly remove these allen bolts. I found it easier to remove the cover then the pump assembly. It wont just fall off you gotta work it off. It will come loose just the gasket holdng it on there.

View attachment 30931

View attachment 30932

View attachment 30933
These three pictures are what it will look like once you get the assembly off

View attachment 30934
These are the tools I used to disassemble the pump

View attachment 30935
First remove the snap ring on gear side then remove the gear and the locking pin from Impeller shaft

View attachment 30936
After that there is another snap ring to remove then you can pull out the impeller and shaft. Giving you acess to the seals and bearing.

View attachment 30937
After the impeller is removed I was able to pull out the rubber mechanical seal and didnt realize there was an outside metal piece around this seal thats "tightly fit" into the housing. So no need to remove that rubber like I did youll be able to tap it out together as one piece.

I used an aluminum punch to tap out the bearing in the direction of the picture above. Cam out pritty easy. after that is removed you can remove the black rubber seal from behind the bearing with a hook pick.

Once you get the bearing and the black rubber seal from behind the bearing out you can flip housing over and use the punch to tap out the mechanical seal.

View attachment 30938
You will end up with these pieces :biglaugh:

View attachment 30939
This is just a picture with everything removed. this is a good point to scrap off any gasket left on the assembly from the crankcase if ther is any. Remember do not do not use a screw driver you will gouge the surface and it will effect the sealing. Use a plastic or fenolic scraper

View attachment 30940
Now get the new mechanical seal out. I used a 1" socket to tap it into place with the mallet. You can use a vise or C-clamp if you prefer but just tap it in as even as possible.

View attachment 30941
Once the seal is in place it will look like this :clapping:

View attachment 30942
then install the new seal underneath bearing then tap bearing into place with mallet. A socket will probably work well for this also I did not use one.

View attachment 30943
Last seal is on the impeller shaft. Use a small flat head to pry it out and then install new seal.






Its all pritty strait forward but here is a few tips

• use Clean antifreeze to lubricate new seals
• When your removing seals take note of direction the seals are
• After removing snap rings you may need to use pliers to squeeze them back. mine stayed expanded

Now youll want to remove whatever is left of the gasket on the crankcase try your HARDEST not to let pieces fall into crankcase or coolant passages. Install new oring's on the 90* tube then install new gasket and pump assembly with the 90* tube on the assembly before you install it on the crankcase.

Torque bolts 7.2Ft lbs
Install drain plug with new gasket
Turn drain valve off
Start engine and pour antifreeze into cap until full

Thats it hope this helps atleast one person out!

I'll be doing this soon. Great write-up.

 

[donnelly317]

Thanks man

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

 

[gamorg02]

awesome write up, just got mine disassembled last night. my seal between the mechanical seal and bearing was pretty garbled up. also make sure you clean the weap hole. mine was full of crud. the mating surfaces for the mechanical seal were full of goop too.

 

[gamorg02]

hey two questions for you guys:

1. hows this impellor shaft look? i was surprised to see those divots in it.

2. being used to sealed pre-greased bearings is the bearing that goes on here normal to feel the 'rolling' when spinning it? i didn't check it before I installed it (but i guess should have) but now that its i can feel the balls spinning. Like almost notchy but not really. not sure if i'm just used to pre-greased sealed bearings. i sprayed degreaser in the old bearing and it also feels similarly but i don't trust it as i drove it out via its inner race. the new one was driven in with a flat surface, can't see how i'd damage it honestly.

 

[donnelly317]

Yes a dry bearing like this you will feel the rolling of the balls. I believe it will be lubricated by antifreeze once in the bike. Also if those pits are where any of the seals ride id change it if you can find one. It will leak again no saying how long till it does or hell it might not but more than likely will if that's where a seal rides. Just the one time my power steering shaft seal on my truck was leaking.. shop tore it apart called me up said they could replace seal for 100 bucks but warranty any of it because the shaft is pitted. Went in and looked at it and said order a new box so it cost like 600...

 

[gamorg02]

Yes a dry bearing like this you will feel the rolling of the balls. I believe it will be lubricated by antifreeze once in the bike. Also if those pits are where any of the seals ride id change it if you can find one. It will leak again no saying how long till it does or hell it might not but more than likely will if that's where a seal rides. Just the one time my power steering shaft seal on my truck was leaking.. shop tore it apart called me up said they could replace seal for 100 bucks but warranty any of it because the shaft is pitted. Went in and looked at it and said order a new box so it cost like 600...

that was my feeling on the bearing. its lubicated with oil though as its on the crankcase side of the oil seal.

good point on the impeller. it makes sense, no need to do the job twice.

 

[donnelly317]

Ya know I was trying to figure that out which side it was on I couldn't remember stupid me why would you lib with antifreeze lol.. yea just see how much one would be and go from there.. if u can't find one cheap run it.. but it is definetly where a seal rides? Or bearing? If its not exactly where the seal rides I would leave it

 

[dannymax]

Not too sure on the bearing but being as it runs in oil you should be ok there....but I'd replace the empeller/shaft if it was my bike. Probly run $45 - $50 w/shipping. Part # for your '03 1FK-12450-00-00

Listen to the waterpump after assembly, should be just a whooshing sound....no mechanical noise. Stethescope is just the ticket...H/F maybe?