How to evaluate V-max before purchase

[misoguy]

Hello all, first post. 40-something year old dude living in the countryside south of Osaka. I had a 1981 CB750 from 95-98, and a 1000cc Kawi Concours from 08-11.

A friend of mine who is made of money imported a pre-2007 V-max from America but decided that he doesn't need it. I think he paid $6000 or so (can and will verify) but he wants me to have a bike so we can ride together, so he wants me to buy it for $2000.

Sounds strange I know, but I trust this guy for a few reasons--we're in business together, he doesn't care about a few grand, and this is kind of how he rolls.

Assuming there's no major problems with the bike, this price is a steal, but of course I want to give it a good going over before purchasing. He just got it a month ago, so of course there's paperwork that I'll reference.

That's a long way of asking, what are the V-max's problem points that I want to check myself before paying a mechanic to look at it?

 

[sdt354]

That is a deal. Take it for a ride and thrash it through the gears. Make sure it starts well fully warmed up. Not much would stop me from buying it.

 

[Redbone]

Welcome! Owning some vintage bikes before the Vmax will be knowledge you can use with this bike. If the bike has sat for a long time the carbs will probably need some cleaning, namely the Peashooter and/ or Shotgun and filter cleaned/ replaced. Either of these methods of cleaning carbs are well detailed in the following section: http://www.vmaxforum.net/forumdisplay.php?f=6
If the bike is still in it's stock configuration and has been taken care of properly the it should be a matter of making sure the tires are in good shape(not old), changing engine/ final drive oils, and flush radiator and both brake systems. The bike is at least 11 years old so looking at wheel, swingarm and steering head bearing will need to be looked at for proper lubrication/ wear.
That should get you on your way to being a happy Vmax owner. We like to see pictures so when you get a chance post up a few. Lastly, if you have any questions about the bike post up and one of our experienced Vmax owners will get you pointed in the right direction.

 

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http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21240

https://www.google.com/search?q=wha...ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&ie=&oe=

 

[marsmax85]

That's a horrible price have your friend ship it here I'll give him 3 grand !! Sounds to like a great price to me does he need a friend in the US ?

 

[MaxMidnight]

That's a long way of asking, what are the V-max's problem points that I want to check myself before paying a mechanic to look at it?

Have a read here

 

[misoguy]

Thanks for the comments and links! Especially the Google search; I was using the forum search with not much success. Will update when there is an update.

TBH it sounds like it will handle a lot like my old CB750. I kind of enjoyed having forks that didn't bottom out on my next bike...

Sent from my ASUS_Z017DA using Tapatalk

 

[caseyjones955]

My 99 Vmax forks were shitty, handled and rode like shit, really shitty and nervious feeling, and shitty. I threw in some Progressive springs and rebuilt the forks according Morleys youtube video, including fluid choice and its feeling pretty darn good now, I can even do some moderate canyon carving now with no trouble and ride quality is improved vastly. While it was apart I replaced the seals and dust cups with OEM parts. It was great improvement for not much time or money. If you find the forks shitty this is one of the fixes that works wonders in dialing the shittiness out and making it ride like a competent road bike. If the fork seals arent leaking and it rides/handles fine than your already ahead. Fork springs are a known wear item and as they wear, handling and ride can deteriorate. Luckily its a pretty straight forward fix if you do feel they are shitty. Also steering head bearings if dry, worn or out of adjustment can have the same shitty nervious feel, especially at speed. All pretty simple fixes that fall under normal maintainance. In my experience this is true of just about any big bike out there and not really Vmax specific.

 

[misoguy]

Finally got some more info. It's a 98 American machine, imported at some point. A local bike shop gave it an overhaul and sold it to my friend for 2600, and he'll sell it to me for 2000. Has frame brace but everything else seems stock, including fork springs. I'd probably replace those at licensing time in November (bike must be licensed in current configuration here). Insurance also paid through November, so I'd just take over and use it for free until then.

It seems to have 3330 km on the clock!

I'm going to check it out this weekend and ride it for half a day as soon as time allows. Will check tank rust, stripped or stuck carb screws, header bearings, warm start, 2nd gear, etc.

https://imgur.com/a/QMirS

 

[misoguy]

More news. It's 8800 km on the original odometer. Canadian bike, imported to Japan when new so low mileage. Or so the bike shop says.

 

[Fire-medic]

Make sure you run air in the forks, most use 10-16 PSI. If you're more-than a featherweight, without it the forks will bottom-out. Be VERY CAREFUL about charging the forks with air, it doesn't have much volume, and it ISN'T like filling a car tire! Just the act of checking the air pressure will affect the PSI in the fork significantly.

Good tires front & rear make a big difference, replace them as a matched pair for best results. For me, the #1 best handling improvement you can make is getting a 17" or 18" rear wheel and then running radial tires. You can run a narrow radial on the front as-is, not the optimal wheel width for a radial tire, but you can do it. Once you try a radial-shod VMax, you'll never want to ride a bias-ply equipped VMax again. You can search the forum for more info.

Second gear issues are a sometimes-problem, if the bike doesn't jump out of 2nd gear when you nail the throttle, doing about 3500-4000 RPM, it's OK.

VMaxes like all bikes like a good-condition battery, again, check the forum for info on the 'crimp fix,' an easy way to improve your charging. If you find it necessary to change-out the voltage regulator, there are better choices than the stocker, namely, a MOSFET-style. Cooler running, less-prone to trouble, and easy to adapt.

Check your brake pads, I run HH friction compound, they give good bite dry/wet. And if your f or r brake fluid, or the cluch fluid isn't crystal-clear, time for a flush/change. Look-up 'reverse-flush' as a technique for rapidly getting all the air out of any of the hydraulics, quickly. It takes little time once you have the correct tool, and you can fabricate one for next-to nothing.

Good luck. Keep it pointed straight when you slam-open the throttle, and only do that after you've done a few roll-ons from about 4000 RPM, on a clean, dry street. Wacking the throttle wide-open on a damp surface will result in wheelspin, and can kick the wheel/tire sideways in a heartbeat.