How to replace Gen 2 spark plugs

[Pighuntingpuppy]

I am not gonna give the steps to remove the body work from this bike. If you need assistance with that, I am sure someone has that listed here. I am starting the step by step process with all the body panels removed.

First, disconnect your negative battery cable and set aside away from the battery.

Next, remove your ECM. Remove both ECM connectors. Disconnect 3 electrical connectors to the right of the ECM. Remove 60A main fuse from rubber holder. Disconnect one electrical connector from battery tray.



Next, remove your battery cover and battery. 4mm allen screws holding the battery cover.



Disconnect the electrical connector to the starter solenoid and remove the forward most battery cable. 8mm socket to loosen. Solenoid then can be lifted away from battery box and placed aside.



Remove three 4mm allen bolts from battery box. Lift box partially and disconnect wires from retainer.



Remove 4mm allen bolt from cross member holding the brake line.




Remove the left side subframe bolts. 5mm allen bolts.




Remove the right side subframe bolts keeping in mind the rear most bolt contains the main battery grounding strap. 5mm allen bolts. Please note that when removing my 5mm allen bolt from the position with the grounding strap, it was insanely tight. There is NO loctite on these threads. I tried heat but to no avail. In the end, I stripped the allen and had to use a Mac tools socket XTS6MM triple square socket to beat new points to remove socket. Bolt was so tight that this high quality socket actually twisted before breaking the bolt free.

In the pic below, you can see the now upper right bolt with the triple square impression where the 5mm allen should have been.

Lift subrame plate from bike to access rear ignition coils. There is a rubber insulator covering the access. Pull rearward without tearing.



Both rear spark plugs and ignition coils can be accessed from this point on. Using a 16mm slim socket with extension, the plugs can be removed and installed to 9.4 ft. lbs. Gently move hoses and wiring to access.



Reverse steps to assemble. This concludes how to change the spark plugs for the rear of the bike.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

The front is more or less straight forward. If your bike still has the factory spark plug wrench, I highly recommend using that as its flexibility and size are perfect for the front cylinders. A slim 16mm with extensions and swivels is entirely possible. But I did not perform this job with those tools. The RF spark plug is the easier of the 2 for the front.

Using the bikes equipped spark plug socket, I was able to use a 14mm ratchet wrench to loosen and install. 9.4 ft. lbs torque on all spark plugs.



I have searched and searched for a way to cheat the left front spark plug. Unfortunately, I find no feasible way to cheat this spark plug out of the engine. The cooling system must be drained and the upper radiator hose disconnected and moved aside. This spark plug is in much further than the others. So using the bikes spark plug socket, patience and a 14mm ratchet wrench, the spark plug will come out. You will need to bring the spark plug tool high up into the frame. A pair of needle nose pliers help guiding the tool out of the spark plug tube and out of the bike. Big hands here will be a pain.




Completely reassemble the bike, start to ensure there are no misfires and go back to enjoying the open road.



Total time for me to complete this job was approximately 2 1/2 hours. I am mechanically able and I have all the proper tools to do the job. Your time will vary depending on experience and tools.

 

[Traumahawk]

Good write up. Thank you.

 

[jfeagins]

Nice write up. But after the ECU and complete battery box removal, I didn't have to do anything with the subframe. I've taken my gen II plugs out more than a couple times now, and also on the wife's gen II, and I think one time I loosened a couple places at the left front coolant lines (no lost coolant) to enable my fat hands into that area a bit easier. Also, a small amount of air pressure into each weep hole will go far to assist getting the rubber seals on the COPS up and out of the way.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

Nice write up. But after the ECU and complete battery box removal, I didn't have to do anything with the subframe. I've taken my gen II plugs out more than a couple times now, and also on the wife's gen II, and I think one time I loosened a couple places at the left front coolant lines (no lost coolant) to enable my fat hands into that area a bit easier. Also, a small amount of air pressure into each weep hole will go far to assist getting the rubber seals on the COPS up and out of the way.

On my 2009, the subframe piece had to be removed. The ignition coils did not come up high enough to be removed. They just simply did not. As you can see with my subframe piece, there is no access points to allow the coils to go through. With my bike, if I was able to get the coils out without removing the subframe piece, then removing the ECM and battery box would have not been needed. There would have been zero reason for the write up as the coils would have slid past all that.

For the coolant line....there was no path to loosen lines the way I did it. I did not remove the air box to access the spark plugs. I also did not loosen the radiators to get to the front engine support for removal.

On my bike, air did not make the coils release. The spark plugs did not have the top cap screwed on. So the coils could be heard clicking down the spark plugs. My coils had to be gently pried off the spark plugs.

If you have done your plugs many times and have pictures to show a better way, please, post them here so others can see and have options when they are ready to do theirs. Your bikes may be different than mine and it would help others with similar years. I am all for cheating a tough job. But since I have found no actual write ups without pictures, I got the ball rolling with this one and with pictures to aid those who like to see what needs to be removed to do the job. Every pic helps, every different way helps.

 

[Traumahawk]

Nice write up. But after the ECU and complete battery box removal, I didn't have to do anything with the subframe. I've taken my gen II plugs out more than a couple times now, and also on the wife's gen II, and I think one time I loosened a couple places at the left front coolant lines (no lost coolant) to enable my fat hands into that area a bit easier. Also, a small amount of air pressure into each weep hole will go far to assist getting the rubber seals on the COPS up and out of the way.

Jim glad that your back on here.

 

[jfeagins]

Who knew we had two different subframes available on the 09's? Wow. Learn something new every day.

 

[digin150]

Didn’t have to mess with any subframe stuff,air is key to remove caps,spark plug tool that came with my vmax was very helpful,just removed front left coolant hose lost very little coolant.Not a bad job taking your time,easier after that.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

My spark plugs did not have the rounded caps most spark plugs have. Instead, they looked like this. Air only succeeded in blowing the dust boot of the coil off. It did not release the coil from the spark plug. Every ignition coil had to be pried away from the spark plug because my coils gripped the spark plug tops.

If you look closely at the old spark plug, you can see where the coil had deformed the threads a bit as I pried the coils up.





Anyone who has a bike with a different subframe piece, please post it so folks can see if they are different. My experience is just this one bike so I do not know what other differences there are. Was something done differently from early production Gen 2s compared to others? I dont know. My sample size is just 1 bike.

 

[one2dmax]

I used these tools the last time I worked on the spark plugs of the battlestar. I don't recall needing to take much off the bike.

 

[Fab333]

I used these tools the last time I worked on the spark plugs of the battlestar. I don't recall needing to take much off the bike.
View attachment 95469

what type of ratchet is the top tool you have there?
I haven't seen one of those before.

 

[one2dmax]

"Sidewinder". Can't recall who makes it. Handy to turn quickly if you have room for the fat head on it.

 

[one2dmax]

I have another one that has a squeeze lever on the handle to push the head around. Sort of like taking a screwdriver to turn a nut. Works well too once you have it broken loose.