I think I'm getting gas in the oil... again!

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MoPure

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I love my Max, but I'm starting to get real frustrated. Last year, I was getting gas in the oil, so I yanked the motor and put a 1300 in with all the Vmax top end stuff. Rebuilt the carbs, but apparently not very well. I'm running Supertrapps if that matters. I've got 64 miles on this motor setup and my oil level has gone up about 1/16". I just drained it and it seemed very thin and smells of gas. On the first couple short rides, I didn't notice any clutch slippage, but now I have some.
Carb issues... #2 float level is low, pilot screw is on 2 turns and plug is slightly wet. Carbs #1,3 and 4 wet levels are good, I changed PAJ1 to 80's on these three and pilots are out between 2 to 3 turns, and plugs are slightly whitish. Seems to run very well with slight to heavy load, but on decel I'm getting popping from the exhaust and "poofing" from the air box, very light throttle cruise I'm getting a little surge.
Could my #2 carb be causing all these symptoms? If so, what could be going on with it? My wet level on it is 18mm below the line but it's the only one that seems to be running rich. Or misfiring perhaps? Could that cause that much gas to go into the oil in that few miles?
This is killing me... :bang head:
 
Sounds like one of the cyl's isn't firing, dumping fuel into the oil. Could be weak spark or too much fuel from sticking float.
 
As was said previously I would start looking at that cylinder not firing. Might want to make sure that the plug wire is trimmed up and getting a good connection. Definitely sounds like that cylinder is the culprit.
 
I'm running cop's, so I'll swap that one out with another and see if the problem follows the cop. Before the swap I had stock coils and wires on the front cyl's, so now I wonder, could the ignition control unit be bad. Could it drop just one cyl, or would it normally drop a pair or all of them if it goes bad? What are some good ways to check for spark at various rpms and load conditions?
Thanks guys.
 
I would pull the plug, reconnect it to the COP it is in now, ground it out to the engine, crank the engine over and see if you have spark. If not you can always swap out the COP and try again without risking damage to the engine by washing out a cylinder while testing. If you get a spark, start looking at the carb having issues, if not then start troubleshooting the ignition, starting with the COP and connections leading up to it. At least this is what I would do.
 
I did as you said... pulled the plug, grounded it, cranked the engine, and got spark. Checked cyl #1 the same way to compare, spark looked about the same. Swapped cops between #'s 1 and 2, started the bike, let it warm up, shut it down and let it cool. Pulled #2 plug. Hmmm, plug looked good. Pulled #1 plug... wet!! Looks like I found a bad cop. I'm running the Mitsu cops from an R1 now. I'll swap them with a set of Denso's from a 929 tomorrow and try to confirm. Hopefully I won't have to go through the same process and all of those will be good. Thanks for the advise! Hopefully I'll be riding this ***** instead of working on her all the time :eusa_dance:
 
you aren't the first with mistu problems!
 
Okay, swapped the Mitsu's for Denso's, and took about a 12 mile ride. It definately sounded better. The cruise surge is gone, or at least undetectable to me. I'm still getting popping from the exhaust on no throttle decel, but it doesn't seem quite as bad. Pulled the plugs and they're ALL dry now :clapping:. All the bent tips are a whitish-grey color, that's good right? No noticable rise in oil level and the oil looks crystal clear in the sight glass. After my first ride with the bad cop, the oil was kinda milky. I'll get some more miles on it just to make sure, but it looks VERY promising so far.
Denso's and VMF FTMFW!! :punk:
 
try upping your a/f screws 1/4 turn each and see if that helps the decel. also make sure its a lean condition by turning the choke on slightly to make sure it goes away.
 
Rode the bike to work today, 30 miles one way. Left the choke on some leaving the subdivision, and while coasting down the hill to the stop sign I got NO popping from the exhaust at all. Popping with choke off. Bike seemed to run pretty good all the way to work with a temp of around 73* outside. Before I left work, I turned all the a/f screws out 1/4 turn each. It was 98* out when I left, and the engine would kinda sputter or flutter on light accel up to about 3000 then it would sound crisp and smooth up from there. Cruising below 3000 would flutter or whatever, sounded like it was loading up, running rich. Still popping from exhaust. So I pulled the plugs.... again.... and now they are all carboned up except for #1 which is still a slight whitish-grey. So I tried to redo my a/f from closed and got this... #1 no change in idle, a/f closed. #2 engine dies with a/f closed. #3 no change in idle, a/f closed. #4 engine dies with a/f closed. The bad news is, I hate fuxin with carburetors. Good news, my oil still looks good.
 
It didn't seem to. The popping doesn't really start until it gets below 3000rpm is worse around 2000 and pretty much gone by 1500. So there seems to be a problem at 3000rpm and below on accel and decel. I don't know exactly why it would be rpm related though :ummm: Got any idea why the two rear cyl's don't change rpm with a/f's all the way in? They were working at least some a few days ago.
 
unsure why the 2 rears shouldn't change. what idle speed were u at when u were testing. best to set it so its barely idling. 800-900 rpm or something..

can you find a shop nearby with an 02 sniffer to help you set the screws? its the only way i was able to, i couldn't hear the differences. before you go though, triple check and make sure the pilot passages are clear.
 
Idle was right at 1000. Don't know of a shop with a sniffer, but I'm sure there's one here somewhere. I need to adjust float level in #2 for sure and probably fine tune the levels in #1 and #3 anyway, so I think I'll just reclean and recheck everything while I'm in there. I really appreciate your responses.
 
no prob. like i said i've never been able to 'hear' the difference plus i run vboost open all the time so it helped to have an a/f gauge and the guy help me tune them. i do know when i first got it something got stuck in the pilot and just one low passage got slightly cloged and i was popping like crazy. fixed the one carb, good to go.
 

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