Ignitech quickshifter

[redneksoldier]

I've been using an Ignitech unit for a few years, now and this mod has been in the list the whole time. I had plenty of setbacks the last few years with trans and motor problems, raising babies, etc. But I finally got some time in the shop to tinker with it. Made a bracket to fit a microswitch as the input for the "clutch master" option. Works amazingly well with my Morley undercut trans.

The top hole is fixed, while the bottom hole is slotted to allow adjustment of the switch for fine tuning. There is just barely enough play in the shift segment to allow the lever to activate the switch. In the higher rpm range, it gets a little harder to activate. I may be able to fine-tune the switch a little more to take that out. I only got a quick test ride in yesterday, so I'll play with it some more when time permits.

The switch I chose to use is not as "micro" as I would like it to be, but it was definitely more robust than the smaller options I had on hand. I pondered the in-line style switches that go in the shift linkage, but I was afraid that the linkage being so short would not allow a switch. So, I never bit the bullet and bought one. I just chose from my selection available at work.

I made the bracket from some thin aluminum diamond plate I had laying around. This stuff is available at and big box hardware store. It's a little on the flimsy side, so I will most likely make a new one out of something a bit thicker at a later time.

I left the settings as found on the Ignitech program and it seemed to work well. 100ms for the kill time and 500ms to re-arm the switch. I think I will try shortening the kill time and see how it does. After some reading and Google searching, 60ms seems to be a common starting point.

Shifting WFO without the clutch is an absolute blast! I was smiling and giggling like a little girl. It didn't seem to want to wheelie as much in second and third while quickshifting like it does when fanning the clutch. Works well at cruising rpm also. The only thing I didn't care for, was that it will activate at any rpm, even idle. It's not enough of a pause to kill the engine, but it is noticeable. Other units that I have worked with in the past have a minimum RPM for activation. I suppose if I wanted to use one of my outputs, i could take the ground wire back to the Ignitech and assign it an RPM to activate. May do that later.

 

[[email protected]]

Cool setup.
I'd be afraid something wouldn't work right and I'd grenade the transmission or case.

 

[redneksoldier]

Not too much of a chance of that happening. Only way I figure that could happen is if the kill time was set too short resulting in a missed shift/false neutral and continue to try jamming it in gear. The same could happen while using the clutch.

 

[redneksoldier]

Here's a vid of the quickshift in action...
https://youtu.be/WuYLdBovEhU

 

[OKCVmax]

Now THAT is COOL!!! unk:

I need to get an ignitech.

 

[one2dmax]

I am working with them to get another batch made up.

 

[Traumahawk]

That would be very good.

 

[Supercharger]

Just for clarifying.
The quick shifter works only one way? (up)
Or the can works both way?

 

[redneksoldier]

That would depend on the switch. My configuration here, only works on the upshift. A person could parallel another switch to activate on the downshift or buy an in-line type that goes in place of the shift rod that is a double throw switch. I'm not sure if anyone even makes those.

 

[redneksoldier]

I have another nifty mod coming soon, so stay tuned!

 

[RempageR1]

Perhaps you can add some circuit to it that it also takes the clutch switch into consideration. So if you are just riding it normally, you would pull the clutch and it should not kill the ignition. That way you can still do some regular cruising and switch to insane mode by just not using the clutch .

Will be following this one, also got the undercut transmission so sounds REALLY cool

 

[redneksoldier]

That could be accomplished a few different ways. If I were to add that to my current setup, I would parallel the clutch switch with my current microswitch, taking one wire to ground and the other back to "input 1" same as the micro switch. Then, I would move the wire on the micro switch to the "normally closed contact. In the software, you can set the "input 1" to "clutch master reversed or inverted(I don't have it in front of me to see the exact verbage)" then, the quickshift feature will only activate if the ground path is interrupted. So long as the clutch lever is pulled in, the clutch switch will be closed and "input 1" will be grounded and the quickshift will not activate.

 

[redneksoldier]

That could be accomplished a few different ways. If I were to add that to my current setup, I would parallel the clutch switch with my current microswitch, taking one wire to ground and the other back to "input 1" same as the micro switch. Then, I would move the wire on the micro switch to the "normally closed contact. In the software, you can set the "input 1" to "clutch master reversed or inverted(I don't have it in front of me to see the exact verbage)" then, the quickshift feature will only activate if the ground path is interrupted. So long as the clutch lever is pulled in, the clutch switch will be closed and "input 1" will be grounded and the quickshift will not activate.

Also, I would want to change "input 2" to "off." Otherwise the bike would only start in neutral and could create a problem when parked on a hill. The circuit could also be manipulated physically to allow a couple other variations.
I read somewhere that the Venture clutch switch has an additional set of contacts that could be used to offer even more configurations for this option. The possibilities are HUGE! My brain has been buzzing with ideas for a few weeks, now and I can hardly sleep just thinking about it. My wife is sick of hearing aboit it too. Lol

 

[redneksoldier]

It was asked in the main Ignitech thread if it has the ability to perform as a "two-step" launch limiter. My answer is it certainly does! More on that later when I work out the details.

 

[RempageR1]

I had a different idea as you had, which is a bit tricky. I wanted to connect the shift light to the clutch input, so if you would do a drag race, you could just put your foot against the shifter gently and the shift light kicked in, it would 'automatically' shift up. I think that would be scary as hell . Also, you had to 'reset' your foot for the next gear shift. In addition, it might not be the best thing for the forks to shift up in such a way.

Back on topic: The clutch switch I just check is a 'make' type. So it will only connect when you pull the clutch. When you do not touch it, it`s in disconnected state so your microswitch doesnt work. Best option would be to either swap the switch or route some 12v through it and add a relay to inverse it`s function....

Fun stuff!

 

[one2dmax]

I would think a power door lock actuator for the shifter but now we're getting closer to a full on air or electric shifter (which I like anyway).

 

[RempageR1]

I checked to see how much play there is and you`re right, there is _very_ little play to work with since the switch should trigger before the actual gear change. Perhaps an alternative would be to place a small pressure switch on the bottom of the shift pedal. Making it small enough it can even fit underneath the rubber itself. That way the system is pressure activated instead of movement. That _should_ be easier to setup right and is less visible.

Also I`ve checked the clutch switch, which is indeed of the 'make' type, but you can modify it to break the connection when the clutch handle is being squeezed.... Building it like that will remove the need of some additional relays etc.

I`ll keep you updated on my progress

 

[redneksoldier]

I had a different idea as you had, which is a bit tricky. I wanted to connect the shift light to the clutch input, so if you would do a drag race, you could just put your foot against the shifter gently and the shift light kicked in, it would 'automatically' shift up. I think that would be scary as hell . Also, you had to 'reset' your foot for the next gear shift. In addition, it might not be the best thing for the forks to shift up in such a way.

Back on topic: The clutch switch I just check is a 'make' type. So it will only connect when you pull the clutch. When you do not touch it, it`s in disconnected state so your microswitch doesnt work. Best option would be to either swap the switch or route some 12v through it and add a relay to inverse it`s function....

Fun stuff!

Connecting the shift light to the clutch master input would work fine. No different than using a physical switch. The key is to preload the lever with plenty of pressure to make the gear change quick enough.

A person could use a relay to inverse the input but it is not necessary. That function is already built into the Ignitech with the "clutch master inv." Option. This option will trigger the quickshift when the selected input sees an interruption in the ground circuit.

There are 2 options for quickshift feature settings:
"Clutch master" activates when the input is grounded.
"Clutch master inv." activates when the input is not grounded.

So, by putting the clutch switch parallel with the microswitch normally closed contact and connecting each to ground, set the input to "Clutch master inv." (Only activates in absence of ground path) when the clutch lever is pulled in(switch made), there is your path to ground so the unit will see no interruption from the microswitch when it breaks contact.

 

[redneksoldier]

I would think a power door lock actuator for the shifter but now we're getting closer to a full on air or electric shifter (which I like anyway).

I'm with you on that. I have a pingle electric shifter from another bike. I need to make some brackets to fit it to the Vmax. The pilot light output function could be used to actuate shifts. A relay or something may be required depending on how the pingle switching controls work. A power door lock actuator could be a good option for somebody wanting to make their own all-electric system. The pingle unit comes with pretty hefty pricetag.

 

[redneksoldier]

I checked to see how much play there is and you`re right, there is _very_ little play to work with since the switch should trigger before the actual gear change. Perhaps an alternative would be to place a small pressure switch on the bottom of the shift pedal. Making it small enough it can even fit underneath the rubber itself. That way the system is pressure activated instead of movement. That _should_ be easier to setup right and is less visible.

Also I`ve checked the clutch switch, which is indeed of the 'make' type, but you can modify it to break the connection when the clutch handle is being squeezed.... Building it like that will remove the need of some additional relays etc.

I`ll keep you updated on my progress

I have seen some pressure pad type switches that are very thin like a piece of heavy vinyl. Those would fit under the shift peg rubber for a very clean install. Not sure how they would hold up,
In that environment, but im going to do some research on it.