ignition

[mavgrab302]

I have a read abunch of the posts on people with this problem but figured I'd post one my self.
At first the problem was intermittent, the bike would drop cylinders and would carry a load and the tach would be pegged although I wasn't moving, simply killing and restarting and the bike would act as though it never happened, thats happened twice. Went a while without an issue then about two weeks ago something new started, while at an idle cold/warm/stop light it would just suddenly die, and lastnight it started acting up at low rpms, not dying I guess because engine rpm but still it's dangerous stumbling in a turn at inersections. I am 100% sure it's not the carbs. I'm also sure it's not the kickstand.
The ignition box is behind the left faux scoop correct cause I'm a bit confused another guy told me it was under the air box isnt that the controller for the vboost?
anyways I've emailed Sean about his exchange deal to try to go through a process of elimination to figure out what my problem is,anyone else run itno this ordeal?

 

[richwrench]

My bike started cutting out about a year ago. Out of nowhere it would pop & misfire & the tach would drop off while it happened, so I knew it was electrical. I checked my ignition switch & found the wiring connector to be green with corrosion. I cleaned it up & packed the connector with di-electric grease. Then I went over the whole bike & greased every single connector I could find - lights, ignition, whatever. Have never had a single issue ever since. My bike used to live outside before I owned it, so I suspect it was more corroded than average. The good thing is this repair is free ! IMHO, check/clean all your connectors before you throw any hard parts at it. It worked for me...

 

[4gasem]

Ya I'd look at the switch itself and work out from there.

 

[mavgrab302]

Yeah already did all that, all connection make good contact and I added di-electric grease, thought it would be a short being the way it was unconsistant. but nothing changed. I never had backfire issues, it would act while riding like I reached down and unplugged a spark plug, that happened twice, now while warming up or at lights or low rpm cruisin' it either dies at stops or idle, or cutts out at low rpm, and it isn't consistant although it seems like it is happening alot more here recently.

 

[richwrench]

Here's a long shot, but I had this also. I had a NEW set of NGK spark plugs & one of them would start to misfire at idle when hot. Threw another set of plugs at it & now it will idle smooth all day long. Only happened at full operating temp. I would also check the plug wires where they plug into the ignition coils - the core of the wire burns out after a while & creates a gap the spark must jump before ever getting to the spark plug. You can just cut 1/2" from the end of the wire & insert back into the coil. I don't see how this would be intermittent, but you never know.
The front coils are a ***** to get to. If all your wiring checks out, your best bet is prolly what you already stated - trade parts out with Sean until you find the prob.

 

[maleko89]

If your tach is causing issues I would check the p/u signal circuit. A yellow wire runs from one of your ignition coils and feeds the ignition signal to your ignition module, vboost and your tach. If you tach is jumping than an abnormal signal is occuring. I would check that boot, plug wire, coil windings...primary and seconary and also the big plugin to your ignition module. I would also follow it back to your vboost servo controller. A simple thing to try is unplugging your vboost and see if the problem still occurs.

 

[mavgrab302]

The tach thing only happened twice along with the cylinder drop,.....ran fine without a hitch for a couple monthes then last week started dying during warm-up, idle @ lights acted as though I turned the key off. Then very recently like lastnight it started doing it at very low cruise rpm like taking off from lights, and I almost ate **** during turning at an intersection, here again I don't believe it died though because the engine rpm was higher than an idle, it is intermittent and not consistant but it is getting worse. I'm pretty good with engines and the mechanics of things and have went through all the simple checks of wiring shorts, connections, etc...are the cdi boxes on the max prone to acting up like this? what does everyone think of the dyna box.

 

[mavgrab302]

Got a hold of Sean yesturday and what a great guy to offer an exchange program like he has. I just hope it's the box, it's not the connections, stand switch, kill switch, or key ignition, and the pickups ohmed as well. keep everyone posted.

 

[Rhoy Carter]

Have you checked the kickstand relay? (located behind the left scoop under the front of the TCI box)

 

[maleko89]

Rhoy, he has an '01 which doesn't use a sidestand relay.

 

[one2dmax]

There is still a switch mounted in the same place.

Sean

 

[mavgrab302]

Ok so today I go out and was going to run to the store to fill up the max right...wrong.
Warmed up fine, purring like it should backed it out put it in first got about 3 feet died, cranked it back up, and it backfired for the first time ever. cranked it back up same thing, 3rd time it ran idled fine took it about 100 ft and it was like I shut the key off, finally got it running rode back to the house with out a hitch and boom again, and now it won't start at all, checked the plugs and no spark.
so what ever it is just took a big dump....

 

[one2dmax]

Well, that should be easier to figure out once the box of goodies gets there.

Sean

 

[jfeagins]

Starting, and restarting that many times in a small amount of time, can make a weak battery take a dump. IMO sometimes when a battery is weakened, combined with the blackbox being cantankerous, could possibly cause the eventual loss of spark to the plugs.??????:confused2:

In other words, perhaps, if you did nothing else but put a fresh charge on the battery, it might start back up enough to go ahead and diagnose other problem(s) within your carbs and/or electrical???


The big battery conversion and tightening up my R/R ground issues to make 3/4 volt better charging, did away with a buttload of funky starting (and dying while hot idling) problems I was having.

I think my Max is reaching out to me for spending too much time on my Venture (since sold) and/or too much time in the Rune saddle.

 

[mavgrab302]

nope battery while key on holds 12.3 volts for sure,12.5 if I remember correct when key is off. To clarify the other day I only restarted probably 5 times and twice to check for spark once it wouldn't crank. I have checked the on off and everything I can imagine, the bike connections etc.. look brand new I've been through all that I could find and added di-electric.

 

[one2dmax]

Full charge on a battery is 12.6V. It shouldn't drop all that much with the key on though the light does take a decent amount of drain. What does the battery do while cranking?

Sean

 

[mavgrab302]

while cranking I can't remember exactly but it seemed fine to me. The other numbers should be right but I may be wrong about them, it might not have changed as much as I said. I just can't remember, I'll check it tonight. It's a fairly new sealed battery so when I did check it I had my doubts it was causeing any issues. but you never know.

 

[mavgrab302]

Well got the box of goodies today from Sean, rip the box open and started replacing the cdi box and sure enough cranked right up, rode up and down the street and it was flawless running. Extremely helpful program sean has and rare at that. So I'll be ordering a dyna3000 and keep the kickstand switch aswell, because I had an issue with mine sticking everyonce in a while.....