issues getting in neutral

[jwerntl]

Hello all. I've just purchased an 06 VMAX -- ohh its all I knew it would be.

But, I've got an issue dropping into neutral. running, not running, sitting still and or slowly rolling to a stop. nothing makes difference.

There is zero clutch issues. nothing other than this?

MY vmax has a full 4-2-1 Kerker with a competition insert, K&N filters along with that it's been jetted and dyno tuned. air to fuel is perfect. it runs awesome.

I just cant drop it in neutral. I know how it should. Any advice?

Thanks all. JOhn

 

[Traumahawk]

When was the last time the oil was changed? When it's time to change the oil....people say that neutral is harder to find. Also.....are you running synthetic or Dino oil?

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk

 

[tugla]

I'd start by chg clutch fluid....check maybe rebuild slave cylinder and master clutch cylinder....
Oil has some effect. Guys running rottela triple t 15w40 seems to help.

You shouldn't have issues after that.
You have any clutch mods like DD mod etc?

 

[MaxMidnight]

Welcome to the forum - I hope your Max goes on to give you many years of pleasure.

• Check that the gear linkage is free and/ or there isn't much slack in it.
• Set the idle as low as possible (within reason!)
• The XS 650 had an issue with neutral selection and Yameringha released the following

If all else fails it might be worth checking.

 

[dannymax]

The easiest thing to try....before anything else....is some old fashioned clutch bleeding, pump up the clutch lever, hold in, then quickly open & close the bleeder. Do this a few times, top off the fluid and see if there's any difference....the smallest bubble of air in the slave will cause this type problem and it's a bitch to get out.

 

[Fire-medic]

I vote w/Mr. Midnight and Dannymax, both issues can cause your problem. No one mentioned the updated shift selector mechanism as your engine should have it stock because of its year of manufacture.

Change all fluids in your ride w/appropriate replacements. Your brakes and clutch fluids should be transparent, any color means time to change, this should be done each year to minimize water absorbed into the fluid, and resulting corrosion of the internals. Change the coolant too.

 

[adambweird]

Ive been having a little problem with this myself lately, but i think mine is due to the rearsets since it wasnt this bad with the stock shifter.

 

[dingy]

Welcome to the forum - I hope your Max goes on to give you many years of pleasure.

• Check that the gear linkage is free and/ or there isn't much slack in it.
• Set the idle as low as possible (within reason!)
• The XS 650 had an issue with neutral selection and Yameringha released the following

If all else fails it might be worth checking.

Here is a similar fix from Yamaha for the Ventures, which have an essentially identical gear train.

Gary

 

[liptoss]

Bought my 06 Ghost Flames 5 years ago with 3800 km's on the clock. I found trouble finding neutral from the day I picked it up from the previous owner. It was usually when the bike was stopped completely. Rolling to a stop, with clutch pulled in I could usually find neutral without effort. I figured it was a bit of drag that was causing this. A weak diaphragm spring? I don't know. I chose to install a Barnett Yamaha VMAX spring conversion kit 501-82-06023 on the recommendation of my brother with his 87 Max having the same. This seemed to help a bit with finding neutral believe it or not. Rolling to stop neutral is quite easily found, but not always so when completely stopped.
We've, noticed this though... with the Vmax motor, as mileage builds on the oil, the shifting of the transmission and clutch action become a little more clunky. Finding neutral becomes a wee bit more difficult as well. We've tried to use synthetic oil in the sump thinking that this would make things "more slippery". It backfired. We've both put Mobil Synthetic V-Twin oil in and both times, the started clutch refused to lock up after a few starts. This old school v4 motor operates better with good old dino oil for sure, and changed often.
At 5000 km's, I usually choose to change. I hanker for the smoother shifting and finding neutral. This brings back Peace in the Valley again.

 

[blaxmax]

The easiest thing to try....before anything else....is some old fashioned clutch bleeding, pump up the clutch lever, hold in, then quickly open & close the bleeder. Do this a few times, top off the fluid and see if there's any difference....the smallest bubble of air in the slave will cause this type problem and it's a bitch to get out.

mity-vac to the rescue.

 

[jwerntl]

I can not say thank you all enough! Being a member here makes m a better person.

The day I got the bike I changed the oil I used regular AMSOIL - It was on sale $8 a qt. - so I figured what the heck. There is no slippage. So Im thinking, I'll check the linkage - Today were going on a 3-4 hour ride. I'll try this little fix.

I'll let you guys know what happens.

Thanks again. John

 

[Hellboy]

I find that my bike is much easier to find neutral shifting down from 2nd as opposed to up from 1st. I seldom even try from first, just kick it up and then gently back down, works every time for me.

Matt

 

[mvmccreary]

I was having issues getting in to neutral this weekend, and we found out the little hole in the bottom of the master cylinder had some debris in it. Took a tiny wire and stuck it in the hole and it worked perfectly (until it happened again) So I'll have to change the fluid and clean it very good to get all the debris out of it. Good Luck

 

[jwerntl]

I was having issues getting in to neutral this weekend, and we found out the little hole in the bottom of the master cylinder had some debris in it. Took a tiny wire and stuck it in the hole and it worked perfectly (until it happened again) So I'll have to change the fluid and clean it very good to get all the debris out of it. Good Luck

Where was this hole at? -

 

[jwerntl]

I cant seem to find it.
thank - I was about to take the cover off, but that sounds much less evasive.

Thanks.

 

[DMAN999]

That return hole is above the clutch line in the bottom of the Clutch Master Cylinder.
If you squeeze the clutch lever with the master cylinder cover off fluid should shoot up and out of that hole.
If you do that make SURE you have rags or a towel covering anything painted on the bike so the fluid doesn't ruin the paint.

 

[jwerntl]

no wonder I couldn't find the dang thing. I'll take the cover off this time. -
wow. and you wouldn't think I could put my shoes on either.

 

[jwerntl]

thank you

 

[DMAN999]

no wonder I couldn't find the dang thing. I'll take the cover off this time. -
wow. and you wouldn't think I could put my shoes on either.

:rofl_200:

thank you

No Problem.

 

[Fire-medic]

Two holes in your master cylinders, one bigger one and one very small one. The small one is closest to the banjo bolt on the floor of the reservoir. I use a sewing needle to poke it clean. As mentioned, if your hole plugs up, you need to change fluid. The fluid should be transparent, not dark at all. If it is, drain/flush your system. This is a good time to use the syringe method of reverse-bleeding, where you are pushing fluid from a bleeder nipple up into the system's master cylinder reservoir.