Jerks forward and stalls going from neutral to first

[Vmaxiow]

Hi, today my vmax jerked and stalled when I first shifted from neutral to 1st with the clutch lever pulled in, the side stand was up. This is the first time and only time it's done it, normally get a small clunk and jerk but not like this. It had a new clutch with full size friction disc and stronger spring fitted last weekend, it's been fine until today.

 

[Conman]

I bought mine with the kickstand switch disconnected. When I reconnected it it would stall like you said every now and again and I'd have to kick the stand a few times to get it to work. I think you may have a faulty side stand connection too.

 

[leecifer]

Some times after my bike has sat for awhile mine will do that but I have found that if I just pump my clutch lever a few times first it will not do it. Maybe another underlying problem but It has worked fine for me so far.

 

[Vmaxiow]

I will try that leecifer thanks, I was wondering if it was poor oil or something, my side stand switch is fine.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Once you get in first and have it running does holding the clutch in keep it from creeping forward?

If it doesn't I vote clutch issues.

Oil issues can do similar symptom as well but usually goes away when hot. And clutch and oil
Issues play together on that as well.

Next time it does it try to keep feeding it throttle and keep it from stalling and see if it stays running, but running like crap. Like misfiring badly.
If you can force it to stay running
with more throttle but runs like crap it's probably electrical. Mine did this before and I discovered the switch in question doesn't kill all cylinders or something along that line if it's already running. The switch appeared to be function mechanically fine but contacts were dirty and or wet inside the housing.

 

[alorio1]

It could be electrical, but I think you need to bleed the clutch at the slave and up top at the clutch master. Some times air gets trapped in the line leading from the master to the slave or in the slave itself. With the extra disk in the clutch, your slave and master needs to be completly free of air so the slave will have full travel to allow clutch boss to release any drag on the plates when the lever is pulled in. Another way to test clutch disengagment is to put it in gear and see if you can push the bike, if you can't push the bike your clutch is not releasing......

 

[Vmaxiow]

It doesn't creep, and it's been fine all evening, just the first time it was put into gear. I left it parked outside a friends house earlier for about 3 hours and when I left it was fine didn't even make a noise going into first. I will be bleeding the lines this week and I will try pushing it while in gear aswell. Just curious as to why it did it randomly out the blue, it's been ridden almost daily for the past couple of months.

 

[naughtyG]

Did you get a change of weather at all? If it goes a bit colder, the oil will thicken, and when putting it in 1st gear the first time in the morning that can often happen.
It's normal, the thicker cold oil just makes the clutch disks stick a bit until warmed up.

Whenever I start from cold, especially if the bike has sat for a few days, I always pull the clutch lever a few times and give it a bit more revs before hitting first, then no prob

cheers

 

[tugla]

bleeding should help it. I had same issue once. I rebuilt the slave unit and it helped and same with master cylinder. ultimately I chg the master to a new one and issues gone.

 

[jwood]

bleeding should help it. I had same issue once. I rebuilt the slave unit and it helped and same with master cylinder. ultimately I chg the master to a new one and issues gone.

I had the same issue last summer, I pump the clutch 3 or 4 times and it went into gear fine. I ended up bleeding the system and have had no problem since.

Sent by the Verizon 4G Data Network

 

[sonmax]

Mine started doing this months ago and it has gotten much worse. It is definitely a faulty side stand switch.

 

[Fire-medic]

There could be several things coming into play, all mentioned here, in prior posts.

Any time you have issues with clutch disengagement, immediately check your fluid. Any discoloration besides a 'weak tea' appearance, change your fluid, and be sure to bleed the system thoroughly! I cannot emphasize how-important proper bleeding is. I don't perform the old-fashioned bleed anymore. I only do it by reverse-bleeding. Some reading:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=31061&highlight=reverse+bleeding

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=38672&highlight=reverse+bleeding

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=39161&highlight=reverse+bleeding

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=39936&highlight=reverse+bleeding

As to the side stand engine cutoff switch, usually a bit of WD-40 on the shaft, and working the shaft in & out fully will get it to return to normal functionality. The problem lies in the switch shaft binding-up because of corrosion, and sticking in the turn engine off position. Or, as has been mentioned you can unplug it.

Cold oil can cause a transmission/clutch to drag. The congealed oil sitting in the spaces between the clutch friction discs & 'steelies' isn't fluid enough to allow the inner clutch drum on-which the 'steelies' fit to allow independent movement of the clutch basket on-which the friction discs insert, with their exterior circumferential tabs. The result is, when you first start the bike on a cold day, and put it into gear, the bike 'lurches' forward, despite the clutch being pulled-in, or even if the bike is left in neutral for start-up. Usually this is enough to allow the clutch pack to get functioning normally, and re-starting the bike with the now broken-free clutch pack members will allow normal clutch function.

Years-ago, I had a Kawasaki Mach III, the notorious 500 cc two-stroke triple known as a 'widowmaker' because of its peaky powerband, lousy brakes (mine was the drum front brake model they ran for the first 3 years 1969-'71) and too-far to the rear engine placement in the frame, causing wheelies in several gears when the bike 'came-on the (exhaust) pipe', especially when sporting a passenger. I installed a Barnett clutch, and that would always stall on the first clutch engagement of the day. After that, it would work fine. The oil just needed to move enough to 'un-stick' the clutch pack.

Another thing to be aware-of, some members running aftermarket levers or clutch master cylinders have found issues with the length of the actuating rod which pushes the clutch master cyl piston to actuate the clutch. Some have drilled the hole in the clutch handle a bit deeper, some have ground-off a bit from the pushrod length. This would come to light because the clutch would slip a bit because the clutch was partially-disengaged because the aftermarket part would allow partial pressure on the master cyl piston.

So, there are a number of reasons for things to happen, and you should investigate them, each in-turn, and evaluating after each attempt, until you find 'the cure.' Then post your results to add to the knowledge meta-database that lies here at the forum, to benefit others.

 

[sdt354]

Mine started doing this months ago and it has gotten much worse. It is definitely a faulty side stand switch.

Don't discount, less than total disengagement. Like others mention, a little air can be the culprit.